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Driveshaft Nut Keeps Coming Loose


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#1 Duncy H

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 12:16 PM

Right i don't think i will be visiting huddersfield spares again, anything i have bought from them i have had issues with.

This time it is the driveshaft nut. I went to huddersfield and got a front wheel bearing set as i had a wobble at the front off side corner. I replaced one half of the set of wheel bearings as i thought they looked in good order, but i didn't have one of the washers which sits under the driveshaft nut so used the old one. But after a while it just does exactly the same and works its way loose. The driveshaft nut seems to sit to far on to the thread so that the pin is not completely sat inside the nut to prevent it from spinning. This means that eventually the pin gets bent and the nut becomes loose.

What is it that you knowledgeable people reckon it is? Or do you reckon it is best to start over again and replace everything??

#2 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 12:51 PM

Is the end of the drive flange worn?

#3 Duncy H

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 12:58 PM

Is the end of the drive flange worn?


Where abouts on it will it have worn? I read elsewhere when i was searching that this could have something to do with it. I wouldn't mind it being a simple fix like that :P Where will I have to look for wear? It is on 12 wheels with 8.4" ap brakes and flanges if that helps at all.

#4 Gulfclubby

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 01:03 PM

Wheel bearing kits are machined as matched pairs. You shouldn't mix and match as you please. It may well be worth replacing both races and the corresponding rings and washers and see if that helps. Also make sure you torque the nut up properly according to spec.

#5 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 01:03 PM

On the end where it contacts the CV.

The opposite end from the studs, you will need to remove it to see.

#6 Duncy H

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 01:08 PM

Ok cheers for the help, I think i will overhaul it all, i.e. new bearing kit and hub flange. The original set i bought cost something like £14 but looking at mini spares they are upwards of £30. Is this right??

#7 blacktulip

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 01:39 PM

£30 seems a bit steep to me, i buy mine from min-its. they do good quality ones for around the £20 mark.

#8 minimender

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 02:35 PM

Sound like the bearing you didn't replace is collapsing.

#9 dame

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 05:09 PM

dude , defo always change both races, and realy not a bad idea to do the other side too

#10 dame

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 05:10 PM

but ref your castle nut tightening up too far for the pin to be effective, is ther not an additional washer in this set too?

#11 minimat

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 05:31 PM

change both parts of the bearing,waste of time only doing one bearing especially when you get both in the kit,there is also a special tool(basicly a flat washer) for torquing up the nut available from mra mini's via ebay.
And check for wear on the cv joint where the bearings run.

#12 Duncy H

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 05:38 PM

Cheers for the help, I don't really know what made me decide to put just the one in. I suspect it will most likely be that the drive flange is at fault, but i will replace the both bearings for good measure. Struggling to find somewhere that has bearings and a drive flange at the right price though (N)

#13 Duncy H

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Posted 10 August 2011 - 07:37 PM

Rightio I think I'll grab myself a new drive flange as it is more than likely to have got damaged after becoming loose maybe 3 or times. I'm at a point with it now where i just want to have one bash at it with all the parts acsessable to me and not have to fart about waiting for parts and be fairly certain that the job is done once and for all!!

#14 MRA

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 09:35 AM

Rover recomend the user of a large flat washer for a reason, some people will say don't use it, however I have never had one fail since using a flat washer.

You will also need to change your CV or hub depending on were the "slack" is, ie if the outer bearing parts need to be pressed in then the hub is good :)

If the inner parts need to be pressed on then the CV is good, I would suggest very careful inspection of the CV joint as this is where the wear is more likely to be .....

#15 Duncy H

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 11:13 AM

What do you mean by this flat washer?

That's not what i wanted to hear. Yet more expense. I'm going to grab myself the tools and have a good inspection around and report back.

Edit, when you say pressed I guess you mean it needs quite a bit of force to fit in and fit flush?? In which case i can't remember the bearing going in being all that difficult. It was the outer one too which i suppose means a new hub (N)

Edited by Duncy H, 11 August 2011 - 11:20 AM.





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