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Sound Proofing


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#16 Brookesy

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:08 PM

Was just going to do it as an extra measure just in case of damp e.t.c.

Thankyou very much for the advice though. I suppose i have spent the last few weeks hunting out every last leak and all seems dry after yesterdays downpour!
Didnt know it would affect the soundproofing. In that case i will spray the underside and put some extra under the arches :)

Thanks once again for the help. Suppose this is sort of the point of the forum at the end of the day :)

#17 Miniryan09

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:15 PM

Sorry for Hi-Jacking your thread but better than littering the forum with duplicates :P

My plan for soundproofing is as follows, could someone let me know if its okay?

1. Layer of silent coat (the 2mm stuff i think)
2. Layer of this felt stuff - http://www.minispare...pid=32969
3. Layer of underlay
4. Carpets
5. Mats

Thanks Everyone!

Ryan

#18 _mini1000_

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 11:26 PM

What parts ok the car are you planning on covering?

The felt I've used is just flooring underlay type, in fact i didn't use felt on my latest build it was fire retardant foam underlay.
But then again by Dad is a flooring contractor ;)

Somewhere like Carpet Right will be sell it off the roll.



thats exactly the stuff i used
sent my dad to a carpet store and he came back with a roll of underlay that is used under wooden floors
works out dead cheap too :)

#19 Brams96

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 01:36 AM

I used 8mm carpet underlay with a blue backing. Seems to work well & is waterproof too (just in case ;) )

#20 Tahiti Joe

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 06:09 PM

Sorry too dig up a wee bit of an old thread, but how much dynamat/silentcoat stuff too people get through when doing the bulkhead, behind dash, floorpan, rear bulkhead and over the arches? Basically the whole car apart from the roof! Dont really want too take the headlining out at this stage! :P

Joe.

#21 Ruckus

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 06:32 PM

2 bulk packs of Dynamat lightweight or the 2mm silent coat should do you.
This should do most of the car inculeding the doors and boot.


#22 Tahiti Joe

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 07:11 PM

Cheers Ruckus! Ordering up now!

#23 miniallsort

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 07:36 PM

i think im going to do this as well whats the cheapest sound proofing you can get ?

Edited by miniallsort, 01 November 2011 - 07:48 PM.


#24 Brookesy

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 09:17 PM

If you look on Ebay you can get some uber cheap stuff. However im pretty sure you get what you pay for. I got silent coat (about half the price of dynamat) and although it still has done an alright job its not as good as dynamat. i imagine the cheapo stuff is not that great either to be honest but then depends what budget you have :)

#25 craigr91

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 06:55 PM

Sorry to slightly hack but how much of silent coat or dynamat will I need, I've searched about and they tend to give it in sq-ft.

Found this on ebay, is this enough
Item number: 350472226792

Cheers

#26 Brookesy

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 10:17 PM

Thats the same stuff i bought, i used two packs and did:
Behind dash
bulkhead, front arches, entire floor, rear arches and rear bins, rear seat area and parcel shelf.

Waiting for teh money to order anotehr one for doors, boot, and possibly roof if i ever get round to it.

So 3 packs alltogether!

#27 Ubertech_s

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:49 PM

resurrection  thread II  ;D

 

My Cabin is hideously noisy - just got back from a 50 mile run and barely dared go over 55 - but then what little sound proofing there is, is not stuck down and is just standard mini fare also I have nothing at the bulkhead, no dash and many holes in need of grommets to the engine bay...but I have a couple of questions

 

I am still a year or two off full weld resto, so I want something that will get me through till then and not have too much to scrape off, and keep costs down until the panels are cut out and replaced. So is there a cheeper solution?

 

I thought maybe 50% coverage using the silent coat, topped by a layer of heavy duty underlay http://flooringwareh...-underlay-10m2/   held down by spray adhesive

 

this would keep the costs down until I am ready to do it all properly, also I wont mind ripping it all out as it is cheap - but will it work?? Also is there benefit in the under bonnet stuff - I would think so as it is a big resonant panel, but opinions..

 

any ideas or alternatives appreciated


Edited by Ubertech_s, 18 August 2014 - 09:50 PM.


#28 Ruckus

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:37 AM

If it temporary i'd just use the underlay. 

 

Sound deadening is designed not to come off once its stuck in place...



#29 joakwin

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 04:34 PM

I used two boxes of bulk pack dynamat extreme in my car

and I was able to cover just about everything in my car

 

did the door skins on the inside of the doors as well, as much as I could anyways


Edited by joakwin, 19 August 2014 - 04:57 PM.


#30 Ubertech_s

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 06:07 PM

If it temporary i'd just use the underlay. 

 

Sound deadening is designed not to come off once its stuck in place...

 

 great I will have a go with the underlay and maybe the flashing tape idea behind the dash

 

Thanks for the good advice, resto hopefully within 18 months max, so I dont want to spend the first half of the project scraping off sound treatment before the welding marathon

 

Post resto (unless the underlay really nails it)  I will go the 2 box bulk pack dynamat route - I dont want a silent mini, but just a little civility so I can communicate without sign language.

 

 

  • what adhesive would anyone recommend for the underlay?

 

  • also the previous owner coated the inside of the mini with waxoyl - what do you get that off with?





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