34 replies to this topic

[AVV IT]

To get the rad out take off the top hose, undo the bottom hose where it connects to the water pump, remove the grille, remove the rad top locating bracket, remove the long bolts which locate the bottom rad bracket - they are 1/2" AF.
Lift out the rad complete with bottom hose.

Sorry to hijack, but I've tried this technique of trying to get the rad out with the bottom hose still connected, but if the bottom hose is still connected to the rad, I can never get the bottom hose past the fan to be able to lift it out. Instead I've always had to lift the rad half way out until the bottom hose fouls the bottom of the fan, then undo the jubilee clip and disconnect the bottom hose from the bottom of the rad, remove the hose and then lift the rad and hose out separately. It's a real pain in the backside doing it this way and refitting it this way is even worse. Clearly it's possible to remove and refit it with the bottom hose connected, so any idea where I'm going wrong??

I'm in Cambridgeshire too by the way (but I'm over here in St.Neots, on the other side of the county where all the peasants live!! )

Edited by AVV IT, 13 November 2011 - 04:27 PM.

[Giant Mini]

hi AVV - well in the end i didnt have to remove it thankfully... guess ill find out one day though..

im just wondering whats next now... if I get a breather from the engine issues etc im gonna fit some seats and try and clean up and stone chip the rear subframe.

[AVV IT]

well in the end i didnt have to remove it thankfully... guess ill find out one day though..

Be prepared for some grazed knuckles and a whole load of swearing when you do!!

How are you planning to stone chip the rear subby? Are you taking it off and doing it properly, or leaving it "in situ" and just doing the bits you can see and get to?

[Giant Mini]

well in the end i didnt have to remove it thankfully... guess ill find out one day though..

Be prepared for some grazed knuckles and a whole load of swearing when you do!!

How are you planning to stone chip the rear subby? Are you taking it off and doing it properly, or leaving it "in situ" and just doing the bits you can see and get to?

deffo in situ, im gonna wire brush everything i can and then jenolite / prime / stonechip or similar - gotta get some ramps first though.

Edited by Giant Mini, 13 November 2011 - 05:39 PM.

[AVV IT]

Hmmm Iv'e done it that way in the past too and whilst it's certainly better than nothing, the problem is the areas you just can't get at whilst it's in situ. Also to do it properly even with it in situ, you really need to remove the brake lines, hand brake cables, exhaust, rubbercones, trumpets and knuckles etc. By which point you are over half way to removing it completely.

[Giant Mini]

well, being new to owning any kind of "old" car im finding the ownership responsibility quite difficult.. I want to enjoy it for a while and then when I know a little more, get that kinda stuff done properly..
I just had a load of welding etc done on it and honestly, the cost ! so i dont want to undo all that was put right.

Edited by Giant Mini, 13 November 2011 - 06:27 PM.

[sonikk4]

I used to drive through Cherry Hinton every morning, often in a Min i, when i worked at Marshalls Aerospace years ago. Nice village.
To get the rad out take off the top hose, undo the bottom hose where it connects to the water pump, remove the grille, remove the rad top locating bracket, remove the long bolts which locate the bottom rad bracket - they are 1/2" AF.
Lift out the rad complete with bottom hose.
Now you can see the fan, bottom pulley and alternator pulley.
Remember, only the bottom pulley is not adjustable. Get the appropriate fan spacer and fit it between pump flange and fan, making absolutely sure the fan goes back on the right way around. Align the alternator by using small 5/16" washers as needed. Re-fit the fan belt, tighten it and re-fit the radiator.
A tip if you dont have a spacer the right thickness is to make up 4 off washer packs of exactly the same thickness and use those until you can get the correct spacer. it's a short-term fix, but will get you back on the road.
it is just so important that all 3 pulleys are accurately in line.
I hope this helps.
Back to wiring up a manual switch for the electric fan on grandson's MPI now I've had my sarnie and cuppa.

Slightly off topic so i apologise for that but when were you at Marshalls Cooperman. I was there from late 94 to Nov 2006 in Hangar17.

[Giant Mini]

its getting worse... im looking for more suggestions.

just took it out and the belt squeal started again and wouldnt stop, ended up with the car overheating, had to keep stopping and nursing the car home.

im starting to think its slipping of the crank pulley, there was coolant all over the place down there and i tightened a few hoses... when it overheated coolant escaped and was all over the area of the fan belt pulley.

im going to have a look in daylight so all suggestions welcome.

[Giant Mini]

well, after a dig around in the engine bay, I found that the bottom rad hose had split at the point where it exits the block.
my guess is that this has been happening for a while and dripping down onto the crank pulley, causing the belt to slip and throwing up a red herring for me

new hoses on the way...

[jaydee]

No rad hose exits the block, maybe out the water pump?
A leak there is more probably caused by a damaged bypass hose. Espescially if you have one of those concertina/easy flute hose which are just un-reliable.

[Giant Mini]

No rad hose exits the block, maybe out the water pump?
A leak there is more probably caused by a damaged bypass hose. Espescially if you have one of those concertina/easy flute hose which are just un-reliable.

bad terminology from me i think.. pretending i know something about engines
it exits just where the dodgy little piece of pipe joins one bit the engine to another - I think its the head what ever that is below it.
that bit of hose also goes off to the heater matrix and the bottom of the rad.

[Giant Mini]

I used to drive through Cherry Hinton every morning, often in a Min i, when i worked at Marshalls Aerospace years ago. Nice village. To get the rad out take off the top hose, undo the bottom hose where it connects to the water pump, remove the grille, remove the rad top locating bracket, remove the long bolts which locate the bottom rad bracket - they are 1/2" AF. Lift out the rad complete with bottom hose. Now you can see the fan, bottom pulley and alternator pulley. Remember, only the bottom pulley is not adjustable. Get the appropriate fan spacer and fit it between pump flange and fan, making absolutely sure the fan goes back on the right way around. Align the alternator by using small 5/16" washers as needed. Re-fit the fan belt, tighten it and re-fit the radiator. A tip if you dont have a spacer the right thickness is to make up 4 off washer packs of exactly the same thickness and use those until you can get the correct spacer. it's a short-term fix, but will get you back on the road. it is just so important that all 3 pulleys are accurately in line. I hope this helps. Back to wiring up a manual switch for the electric fan on grandson's MPI now I've had my sarnie and cuppa.

yep, rad comes out pretty easy that way.

[AVV IT]

yep, rad comes out pretty easy that way.

Really?? Clearly I'm doing something wrong then!!

[Cooperman]

I used to drive through Cherry Hinton every morning, often in a Min i, when i worked at Marshalls Aerospace years ago. Nice village.
To get the rad out take off the top hose, undo the bottom hose where it connects to the water pump, remove the grille, remove the rad top locating bracket, remove the long bolts which locate the bottom rad bracket - they are 1/2" AF.
Lift out the rad complete with bottom hose.
Now you can see the fan, bottom pulley and alternator pulley.
Remember, only the bottom pulley is not adjustable. Get the appropriate fan spacer and fit it between pump flange and fan, making absolutely sure the fan goes back on the right way around. Align the alternator by using small 5/16" washers as needed. Re-fit the fan belt, tighten it and re-fit the radiator.
A tip if you dont have a spacer the right thickness is to make up 4 off washer packs of exactly the same thickness and use those until you can get the correct spacer. it's a short-term fix, but will get you back on the road.
it is just so important that all 3 pulleys are accurately in line.
I hope this helps.
Back to wiring up a manual switch for the electric fan on grandson's MPI now I've had my sarnie and cuppa.

Slightly off topic so i apologise for that but when were you at Marshalls Cooperman. I was there from late 94 to Nov 2006 in Hangar17.

Would you believe 1966 to 1971. I was in the Aircraft Design Office when, amongst other things, I worked on the design of the droop-nose for the Concord. I used to drive there in, amongst other cars, a Mk.1 Cortina GT, Humber Hawk, a SAAB 96 V4, Cortina 1600E, Mini 850, Mini with MG1100 engine and a Mk. 1 1275 'S'.

[Giant Mini]

F)(**King thing !

ive aligned all the pulleys, ive fixed the drip from the cooling system onto the belt and spent hours sorting it and now...

with all the pulleys inline, I replace the fan belt, let it stretch and then re-tension it. afterwards, even with good tension, its slipping and squealing all the time until the belt wears out, which takes no time at all...

any ideas ?

do pulley wheels wear to the point where this happens ? do they need replacing ? Ive got to do a 200 mile trip in this thing in 2 weeks... I need it working