78 replies to this topic

[charliedurrant]

You got a multi meter?

Check the VR sensor is touting by wiggling a screwdriver in front of it.

The main problems I had with mine (and found with other people's) was the pins on the Edis being corroded.

Also, check your VR-trigger wheel gap.

Make sure you've got power at the middle pin on the coil too.

Matt,

I noticed quite a bit of whitish powder on the EDIS terminals on mine. I tested resistance via pins on the plug, but what did you do about the corrosion on the EDIS itself? I thought and since it's not bolted in yet, that pushing the plug in a number of times would loosen things a little.

Would you recommend some contact cleaner?

Charlie

[The Matt]

to be honest. I used WD40 in mine and just repeatedly plugged it in and then off.

[charliedurrant]

to be honest. I used WD40 in mine and just repeatedly plugged it in and then off.

Perfect, thanks.


Charlie

[klivins]

when I had similar problem it was one pin in VR sensors socket was not deep enough - schoolboy error of mine... with this fixed engine sprang to life immediately!

[charliedurrant]

Well i tried to start it today - Absolutely nothing happened.

Engine was getting fuel, plugs were wet but no spark.

The MJ is getting power, and i'm connecting to it ok on the laptop. Also tried reversing the VR sensor wires and no change. So gona study the wiring diagram and see if i've gone wrong anywhere with that but i'm pretty sure I haven't as I triple check it all before I put it in.

If its not my wiring it could be anything! The VR sensor, the EDIS 4, the coil pack or the MJ itself and i've got no way to test them really either....

Mike, as Matt mentioned, you need a multi meter. With reference to the post above, set it ot ohms and measure the resistance from pin end to pin end. Altenatively a light bulb, some wire and a battery...

1) Edis pins to MegaJolt connector pins
2) Edis pins to VR sensor pins
3) Edis pins to Coil connector pins.

That way you can make sure your wiring is spot on.

Charlie

[mike.]

Thanks for the help guys. Going to be having a go at this tomorrow or monday, i'll let you know how I get on

[mike.]

Only had an hour or so today so not fully tested it. But,

My EDIS pins are all in really good shape, barely any corrosion and I'm getting 12v at the middle pin on the coil. Not fully sure how to test the VR sensor, I set it to ohms (theres about 5-6 settings for it though on the meter) and I struggled to get a reading. I did get a reading briefly at one point, and it did change by 1 or 2 numbers when I waved a screw driver near it - But this could of just been me holding the prongs. Gona try again soon with another set of hands to help and test my wiring too, and double check the wiring diagrams

What setting is it I need to use to test resistance for my wiring?

Pretty sure this image shows the settings my meter has:

[charliedurrant]

My EDIS pins are all in really good shape, barely any corrosion and I'm getting 12v at the middle pin on the coil. Not fully sure how to test the VR sensor, I set it to ohms (theres about 5-6 settings for it though on the meter) and I struggled to get a reading. I did get a reading briefly at one point, and it did change by 1 or 2 numbers when I waved a screw driver near it - But this could of just been me holding the prongs. Gona try again soon with another set of hands to help and test my wiring too, and double check the wiring diagrams

What setting is it I need to use to test resistance for my wiring?

Stick the tester on 2000 (south south west ) setting. The meter will show a number without the probes connected together. When you connect them it will show 0 i.e. there is no resistance (metal to metal). Knowing this you can check the pin outs. So if pin 1 on the edis plug (going from memory here) goes to pin X (pip or saw) on the mega jolt plug, when you connect one probe to pin 1 and one to pin X then the meter should read 0, Move the probe to the other pins on the megajolt plug and it should now read greater than 0 so you know you don't have any cross wiring.

Now repeat with all the pins on all the connectors and confirm that they are correct via the wiring diagram. Just to note what version is your megajolt?

Charlie

Edited by charliedurrant, 07 December 2011 - 12:16 AM.

[mike.]

Ok thanks. What about testing the VR sensor?

My MJ is version 3, and it is fitted with the hard cut rev limiter wired internally.

[Ethel]

Since the edis has a limp home mode, you could unplug the MJ and see if you get a spark with the Edis alone.

The crank sensor is more like a dinky generator, it contains a magnet and a wire coil that generates voltage when the iron teeth pass it. A quick google suggests you should get about 2 volts at engine cranking speeds. There is info on the autosparks site somewhere about simulating the VRS out of the parallel (or serial?) port of a PC.

As far as I can tell the edis connector pins are gold plated, the casing looks to be aluminium - likely source of white powdery corrosion.

[charliedurrant]

Ok thanks. What about testing the VR sensor?

My MJ is version 3, and it is fitted with the hard cut rev limiter wired internally.

Hi again,

Just to note then that the main wiring diagram on autosports lab is for v4 and the pins are different at the megajolt end. Sorry if you're thinking - "yes, yes, I know that".

Charlie

[mike.]

Yep i've got the V3 wiring diagram saved in my favourites - Was worth pointing out though.

What does the EDIS need to run in limp home mode? Do I literally just unplug the MJ and aslong as the EDIS has power/earth it'll be in limp home mode?

Basically heres the story - the guy who sprayed/welded my car fitted the trigger wheel/sensor and made a 'wiring loom' for it. When he gave me the car back he said the plug i'd provided for the MJ was no good and I needed a new one before it'd run on the MJ (the plug I provided was the proper auto sport plug so that was just twaddle)

Anyway I tried starting it on just the EDIS once before and it made no attempt to start and just back fired through the carb, but as soon as I got another MJ plug and plugged it in - It ran fine. Then whilst still rebuilding the car, the wiring failed and it wouldn't start anymore (I assumed it was the wiring as the 'loom' he made was terrible) so I took the whole lot out to rewire it.

So i'm thinking the trigger wheel/sensor isn't really in the right place as the EDIS won't run in limp home and when trying to start it in limp home mode - the timings so far out it back fires through the carb, but it worked ok with the MJ connected. The trigger wheel the guy sold me, is a one piece pulley machined with the teeth in it, it looks nice but it doesn't have a damper built in, so if i continue using this pulley it'll destroy the engine. So a new trigger wheel/VR mount is going to be fitted anyway, but I thought since i've had the car running with the current trigger setup and the MJ, i'd test my wiring with that and then change the trigger set up to a suitable one - That way if it doesn't start then, I know thats the cause and not my wiring.

Hopefully the above makes sense, I needed to explain why I don't think my car will run on just the EDIS...

[The Matt]

Not done any welding near where the ECU is mounted, or the EDIS is mounted has he?

[mike.]

Not as far as I know and the welding i've had done since the whole setup was off the car

[Ethel]

If it fired at all it must have been working, just badly mistimed, or at worst on only one half of the coil pack.

The edis does pretty much all the work, it tells the MJ what the rpm is (PIP) and the MJ looks up how much advance is needed by reading the cell in the table for that rpm and whatever MAP it's seeing then it tells the edis (SAW). If the edis isn't told anything it will spark at 10 degrees before it senses tdc - whether it really is 10 degrees of advance depends on accurately you mounted the trigger wheel & sensor.

If it sparks you could whip the plugs out and hook up a timing strobe to see what the actual timing is, just the same as with a dizzy.