78 replies to this topic

[mike.]

Ok I see, was just the 0.9v that was confusing me really!

So should I splice a wire somewhere in the ignition and use that to trigger my relay for the fuse box?

Maybe the red/white wire which goes to the starter relay from the ignition key... or another wire?

[mike.]

Yeah i'll do that, should be easy enough.

I didn't really want to start swapping the connections on the coil until I was sure my wiring was wrong, as they're all soldered and i've not got much wire to play with coming off the coil plug.

[l_jonez]

its been 5 years since i did mine but im fairly sure the fuse with the green in and white out is a a switched live (ignition) but stays live when cranking

best bet is get a multimeter on them to find which one it is

Edited by l_jonez, 08 December 2011 - 05:40 PM.

[mike.]

Yep will do, would rather just connect it to a fuse on the box if one of them stays live than start splicing my ignition wires.

Thanks for your help though, was a good shout that!

Edited by mike., 08 December 2011 - 05:46 PM.

[l_jonez]

Any update on this ?

[Ethel]

green & white are ignition feeds but the other way round, white is unfused, green fused.

Where are you measuring your voltages? Remember it's "potential difference" i.e. the voltage drop between the meter's probes. If there's little resistance in what component you're measuring across there won't be much pd... V=IR 'n all that.

[mike.]

Ok i'm using internet off my phone from my nanas house (where the car is) atm to update this.

Basically I don't know if the other day I had the multimetre on the wrong setting or whether it was just me being crap with electrics - Probably me to be honest.

The voltage drop wasn't to 0.9v, it was to 9v - Which is enough to keep the relay closed and power to the MJ system.

So I am getting voltage to everything whilst cranking - Just not 12v, it drops to 9v because of the load of the starter motor.

I've found the top fuse which is ignition switched keeps 9v whilst cranking, and the pink/white wire drops to around 8.5v (resistive wire). The second fuse down is permanent live from the solenoid - This also drops to 9v whilst cranking.

Could this be my problem? Will the coil spark from 9v?

Because i'm still not getting a spark. I've been speaking to matt on facebook, and he said even if my wiring to pins 1 and 3 on the coil is backwards - I should still get a spark which i'm not. The only thing I can think is the coil needs more than 9v to spark.... Might try charging my battery a bit or something.

Also its hard to test with one set of hands so may just be the way i'm holding it, but I can't get an output from the VR sensor either.

The coil is my main concern though as has been said earlier, if the EDIS doesn't get a signal from the VR, it should just keep the advance set at 10 degrees before TDC right? So even if the VR isn't working I should still see a spark.

[mike.]

Ethel, when i'm testing my voltages, i'm just holding the metres probes onto the terminals for my fuse box and when measuring the coil voltage, the probes have been pushed into the coil pack plug.

I've been earthing the metre by putting the probe into the weave of the engine earth strap.

[The Matt]

You won't see a spark if the VR isn't working, no. The spark will only happen if triggered by the VR sensor.

If you've got power at the coil, the VR is outputting a signal and the EDIS has power, then it should spark.

[mike.]

Ok well I'm trying to test the VR sensor now. I've wired it to the multi metre now with some crimps so I should get some proper readings off it.

But the cars cranking slower now, so the battery must be starting to go flat, so need to give it a proper charge really as that could be why everything drops to 9v whilst cranking too.

Just going to see if I can drive my corsa close enough to jump the mini battery - Just to let me do a couple more tests...

Edited by mike., 10 December 2011 - 02:19 PM.

[The Matt]

OK, don't flatten the Corsa battery!

[mike.]

Ok got the corsa hooked up to the mini battery now so got more cranking power. Corsa battery went yesterday - So its got a brand new battery on that (money I didn't wana spend but oh well) so yeah I won't be doing much cranking on that new battery as i'll be kicking myself if it goes flat haha.

If i set the multi metre to the standard voltage setting i've been using to test voltage on everything I get no voltage reading from the VR. If I set it to AC voltage, I get about 1v from the VR when cranking.

If I set the multi metre to ohms on the 2k setting that I was using to test my wiring, I get a read of 370, and then whilst cranking that constantly changes between 200-700.

Does this sound like the VR is working? Any other tests I should do whilst I've got the multi metre hooked up to it and the corsa hooked up too...

[Ashdesign]

I think the VR sensor should give out approx 2.5v AC, but I've had one produce 1.4 at cranking speed and all worked ok.

Can I ask whether you bought a new plug and terminals for the edis unit, or did you use an old one with a few inches of wire attached?

I only ask 'because I bought a new one, wired it up with the terminals supplied, and couldn't get a spark. Turned out to be the terminals supplied are too small to fit the pins in the edis unit and were all pushed out of the latching mechanism in the plug. Couldn't even see it until I stripped the new plug down.

Another £40 odd quid spent on totally useless parts!!

[charliedurrant]

Ok, spent a while testing today and found a couple of problems.

PIP and SAW connections are ok, EDIS to VR are ok, however I think i've got the 2 outer pins on the coil plug wired back wards. I think whats confused me is from this wiring diagram:



I've got pin 1 going to pin 12 on the EDIS, pin 2 going to my hard rev limiter through my MJ, and pin 3 going to pin 10 on the EDIS.

I'm unsure if this is right, as if you imagine that wiring diagram as looking directly at the coil as its labelled my wiring is right, but if its supposed to be how the plug is wired them its wrong...

Also Jonez is right about 12v whilst cranking! I'm getting 12v to the coil and the power supply i'm powering the whole lot off, but whilst cranking this drops to 0.9v!

I don't understand why this is happening though - Here is how my second fusebox is wired:

Just wanted to say that is very neat wiring especially the variable sized heat shrink tubes. As to the pins to the coil, doesn't the plug / connector have 1 2 3 moulded on it, I'm only saying that because mine did...but as already said it shouldn't matter if they are round the wrong way - you should see a spark.

The coil is my main concern though as has been said earlier, if the EDIS doesn't get a signal from the VR, it should just keep the advance set at 10 degrees before TDC right? So even if the VR isn't working I should still see a spark.

I would't expect the EDIS unit to do anything unless is has a signal from the crank sensor. It wont know where TDC is to set the advance to 10 degrees without a working crank sensor signal.

Charlie





Charlie

[mike.]

The EDIS plug i'm using is an old one with a few inches of wire, not a new one. It'll be the same one matt used with this setup as I bought the MJ parts off him when he when for a vauxhall conversion.

Thanks for the neat wiring comments - Unfortunately neat wiring doesn't always work >.<

Ofcourse the EDIS won't fire without a signal from the VR, didn't think too far into it. I should think more before I speak

I'm thinking the 9v everywhere whilst cranking and the 1v from the VR sensor might all just be down to the battery being low on juice.

I've left it for today and put the battery on charge overnight for another attempt tomorrow. I'll have a proper look at the coil pack plug to see if its numbered too...

If I can't get it going tomorrow I might start the hunt for another set of ford bits so I can eliminate any faults with the EDIS stuff itself too.