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Very Fast Road Spec 1098?


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#31 callyspoy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:03 AM

Is that the belt drive DILLiGAF?

#32 callyspoy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:34 PM

Cool, i will have a gander. Could be tempted to just fit vernier chain drive instead, we'll see!

Also, the engine came with an Aldon Dizzy in it, i assume suited to the engine? I've no experience with Aldon, what are the thoughts on them? There is no vacuum adv. but i think that's normal for them?
It is a points jobbie, but i have lumenition electronic in my car atm, so was thinking put the luminition module in the aldon dizzy? (yes, i'll keep the points as a spare, just in case!)

#33 callyspoy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 05:24 PM

Just had a couple of random seconds...all i saw was the aldon sticker. Then saw "lucas" stamped on the body, was cursing the world thinking someone had just plonked a sticker on it when i thought...hmm...perhaps Aldon just refurb the insides...low and behold...found 100AY, so there you go! I assume putting the Lumenition set up in the Aldon will be fine?

#34 callyspoy

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 11:08 PM

That's good to know.
Question...
The engine spec was...imp piston, 286 cam, 295 head, unknown carburation.

I am going...imp piston, 266 cam, 940 head, hif 44.
Is the dizzy still likely to be a good'un on the probable new set up?
Cheers!

#35 bmcecosse

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 12:27 AM

Aldon charge a fortune for simply grinding a bit off the advance stop on the bob-weights - there's nothing 'magic' inside -and yes, I'm sure they overhaul the dizzy while in there with new bushes etc. . As ever - my advice is to advance until it pinks when working hard, and then retard slightly so it's 'not quite pinking'. It's the best you can do without using a mapped system. I disagree with the exclusion of the vacuum unit - it will cost you 'sparkle' on initial acceleration and will cost you fuel. Normally - the engine starts easily with very little static advance and immediately the vacuum system pulls up the advance to give a nice idle with correct advance for best emissions and best acceleration away from idle (the sparkle). Without vacuum - excessive static advance has to be built in - making for more difficult starting especially in colder weather, and perhaps not the best emissions. It also has a negative effect on fuel economy - the vacuum unit pulls up the advance when running on part throttle - frankly, that's most of the time - without it, poorer fuel economy. I would (and I do) use a normal dizzy with vacuum, and modify the advance stop to get the correct maximum advance but still with minimal static advance for easy starting.

#36 callyspoy

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 10:00 PM

Cool, right, next question(probably should have put this in an engine rebuild section!)
Now, with my decked block, flat top pistons and 940 head, am i not going to have obscene cr? I don't mind high CR, i'm comfortable using the expensive fuel, just want it to work still!
I will measure it soon, but just thought someone may have a ball park figure...

#37 callyspoy

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 07:19 PM

Hellooooooo...
Right...
What i have been up to...
* Bought a 276 cam from a forum member, so i will be fitting that in place of the 286 (anybody want a 286 with followers and lighter duplex??)

*Pocketed the block as i worked out that only with a VERY mild cam could i geta way with not doing so. I did do this with the 286 in mind, but the ex lift is not too much different between the two cams. I mocked it all up and it seems good to go (once i get the new cam)

*Bought a vernier belt drive kit (sorry Roy!!), i would like to replace the belt, but i don't know if different manufacturers of the kits had different blts? Mine is one with the 2 piece cover, if anybody can shed any light? I also would probably like new seals, but again, which ones?

That's the bulk of the work really. You can still see the cross hatch on the bores, so i am very confident that the engine will be pretty good. But who knows eh! I am definitely going with the single hif (So i have a pair of 1/4s and 1/2's twin carbs, complete with linkages and manifolds if anybody is interested?)
Once the cam arrives, i will be able to fit that, fit the timing belt kit, plonk the head on and away we go. The engine is now orange with a black head, i like it! Chevy Orange, what's not to like? Except my painting of course!

I plan to have the engine in by early Feb, based purely on having MOT in March and i don't want to be messing around too near to that really. I am looking forward to it though, should be a little beasty really, i reckon it would give a standard 1275 a fair run for it's money, thoughts?

Once it is in, i'm sure i'll have lots of questions etc, any pre installation thoughts that anybody has, please feel free to offer them!
Cheers!

#38 bmcecosse

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 08:46 PM

You will regret that belt drive...... :shy: . Hope you have a crankshaft damper on that engine ! Remember -6000 revs absolute tops......

#39 callyspoy

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 08:56 PM

maybe, but i'll never tell you if it goes bang! Ha!

I don't plan to take it above that, but if i am accelerating hard, can i take it above momentarily? I would never hold it at high revs as i'm a pansy!

#40 callyspoy

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:15 AM

Can anybody help regarding the belt?

#41 Wil_h

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:53 AM

Minispares still hold the large and small oil seals in stock and the belts too.

#42 callyspoy

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 12:16 PM

Hi, thanks for responses.
Do people know if all the belt kits have the same oil seals and belts though? I saw your comment before DILLIGAF, and i would probably go with that company, but the seals...i have no idea if they're universal :-(

#43 callyspoy

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 01:49 PM

Also...
Got the cam today and it looks good.
Only thing is, it has "sb" on it, which tells me it is a scatter billet cam.
Is the scatter going to be a problem? I don't know anything about scatter!

#44 Wil_h

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 02:37 PM

Phone minispares, tell them the one you have. and ask for the parts. all the belts are the same size anyway.

#45 bmcecosse

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 09:01 PM

The 'scatter' is there to (supposedly) help with the shared inlet port problem.




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