87 replies to this topic

[callyspoy]

To be honest, i bought it not knowing it was a scatter. But i'll give it a go.
I assume you time it up the same as you would a "normal" cam? I will be using the timing wheel jobbie and dti.
Cooperman did a great step-by-step write upof how to do it...need to find that thread... :-S

[bmcecosse]

Just do it dot to dot - it's only a low revving 1098!!

[callyspoy]

Ha, but then it would waste the snazzy vernier! I've got to try it for laughs if nothing else!

[bmcecosse]

Carry on - but it's a waste of time. How do you know what setting will be best for YOUR engine ??

[ace01]

Out of interest I have run a 1098 setup with a 286 cam, it went exceptionally well with a modified 295 and would rev frequently and easily to over 6500. Yes it was balanced and had a centre main strap, but the engine went well, very well. This was not 20 years ago either, it was 2010.

The 1098 crank is not weak when straped and balanced, no it will not like 8500 revs, but with a 286 it had plenty of torque.

[callyspoy]

Hi Ace01, can you give me any other info on this build of yours? I'd be interested to learn a few other things about the bad egg in the A series stable!

Edited by callyspoy, 12 January 2012 - 07:09 PM.

[bmcecosse]

Anything over 6000 is risky on a 1098 -centre main strap or not. Hence the 286 is not a good choice for this engine since it loses power low down, and can't be used high up!! The 286 is a GREAT choice for a 998 where it can be revved to 8000 (or more .. .) with reasonable safety!

Edited by bmcecosse, 12 January 2012 - 07:14 PM.

[callyspoy]

Well, got the thing in this week. Got it started today and it's a bit rumbly. Gutted. The oil pressure light Stays on, bit of a blow really.
Just wondering if i am missing anything? Any tricks before i take the engine back out and rebuild the bottom end?
As a recap it is...
1098 bored out to 1215
940 head
286 cam
I assume any rumbliness is pretty much a no go?
Any help, moralsupport appreciated!!

[bmcecosse]

Well- -did you regrind the crank and fit new bearings and a new oil pump? I see you have fitted the silly 286 cam too... Oil light staying on is desperate. Exactly what was done to the bottom end ??

[callyspoy]

I didn't touch the bottom end. I took a chance with it. I was sold it as being a good engine but unused for a few years.
The sensible thing to have done would have been to dismantle it, i didn't, that's life regarding that.
Just wondered if there is anything i can do? I feel it is inevitable that it'll be coming back out again, but just wondered if there was any magical thing that may help. I do like magic.

[callyspoy]

Anybody?

[bmcecosse]

If the oil light is not going out - you can try priming the pump by turning the engine backwards and injecting oil (1/4 pint) in the hole where the feed pipe connects to the filter housing. You changed the cam - did you fit a matching oil pump?? And did you prime that pump before fitting? An oil pressure gauge will be a top priority....

[oltonlad]

in all fairness to bmcecosse (who actually knows what he is going on about)...how many times during this post has he said that the 1098 engine should not be revved over 6000rpm? and that the kent 286 cam would be useless in this engine?

so the person that wanted advise actually got good advise and chose to totally ignore it, so what was the point of this thread in the first place??

and now the engines bottom end is knocking and there is no oil pressure...........i say no more........!!!

[Cooperman]

The comments made by 'bmc...' are quite correct.
To be blunt, it's fairly useless having a cam which peaks at around 6500 rpm in a 1098 if can't rev it safely beyond 6000 rpm because you are gaining nothing and losing a lot low down where a 1098 is at its best. The 286 is entirely unsuitable for a 1098. The hottest cam I've ever put into a 1098 was a 276 in a Historic motor sport A-H Sprite Mk.1. That was with a fully balanced bottom end, centre-main bearing strap, light flywheel, big crank damper and lightened rods. even then I told the owner not to use more than 6300 rpm, but the 276 is fine with that limit, unlike the 286 which really needs to be able to rev to 6700 to 6800 to be effective.
It is also unwise to try to get more power from an engine without rebuilding the bottom end and to risk running an un-rebuilt 1098 to over 6500 is asking for a gearbox full of engine parts and the subsequent need for a new engine and gearbox.

[oltonlad]

The comments made by 'bmc...' are quite correct.
To be blunt, it's fairly useless having a cam which peaks at around 6500 rpm in a 1098 if can't rev it safely beyond 6000 rpm because you are gaining nothing and losing a lot low down where a 1098 is at its best. The 286 is entirely unsuitable for a 1098. The hottest cam I've ever put into a 1098 was a 276 in a Historic motor sport A-H Sprite Mk.1. That was with a fully balanced bottom end, centre-main bearing strap, light flywheel, big crank damper and lightened rods. even then I told the owner not to use more than 6300 rpm, but the 276 is fine with that limit, unlike the 286 which really needs to be able to rev to 6700 to 6800 to be effective.
It is also unwise to try to get more power from an engine without rebuilding the bottom end and to risk running an un-rebuilt 1098 to over 6500 is asking for a gearbox full of engine parts and the subsequent need for a new engine and gearbox.

my sentiments and thoughts exactly, i'm no expert on engines but even i wouldent run that spec on a 1098, that is just asking for trouble (and a lot of unwanted expense)