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Coolant Gone After Head Gasket Replaced.


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#1 minimissionary

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 10:39 PM

Started first time after replacing the head gasket (for the second time this week). The head was skimmed and hot washed this time so it should be ok. Everything was flattened and cleaned as it should be. Filled the rad with fresh coolant after draining and flushing it.
A fair bit of coolant disappeared after first start and running for a minute of two. Is this because the head was dry and it's pushed water into empty spots?
It also seems I have a very slight amound of mayo on the filler cap, but nothing on the dip stick. Inside of rocker cover looks fine, and everywhere else is clean. Just condensation from the engine built up while the heads been offf?

Scared. Don't want to do a 3rd head gasket this week! :(

#2 minimissionary

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 10:57 PM

Another 2 minute run.
Coolants boiled off. More mayo in rocker cover. Still only a small amount, but more than before. Dipstick still clean.

Edited by minimissionary, 25 February 2012 - 10:57 PM.


#3 Dan

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:30 PM

Short runs will make condensation form in the rocker cover, it may be unrelated to the engine coolant. It's just atmospheric water boiling off in the engine and collecting at the highest point, but you aren't getting it hot enough to dry it all out. Are you still loosing a lot of coolant or is it just dropping down in the neck?

#4 Tupers

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:31 PM

Have you put a straight edge across the block to check it's straight? Two head gaskets in one week would suggest you're either doing something wrong when fitting them or the block needs skimming.

And yes you do need to add more water to compensate for what is lost when you drain the system before pulling the head.

#5 andymini12

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:32 PM

Yep that is normall, you will usually have airlocks in the system so leave to run with the rad cap off till the thermostat opens. This will get all the air out of the system also have your heater valve open.

#6 minimissionary

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:16 AM

Have you put a straight edge across the block to check it's straight? Two head gaskets in one week would suggest you're either doing something wrong when fitting them or the block needs skimming.

And yes you do need to add more water to compensate for what is lost when you drain the system before pulling the head.


Surely the chances of the block being warped are slim to none? When the head gasket went it didn't overheat, so it should be ok. The second time the oil turned to mayo, so I changed it again as a precaution.

The coolant isn't leaking, it's just disappearing into the block somewhere. I'm talking a litre or two. :unsure: The oil on the dip is clean after the last run, so I don't think the gaskets gone again :ermm:

I'll spare the neighbours and start it again tomorrow.

#7 mike.

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:37 AM

Was the head empty when you put it on? Because that'll take a decent bit of water I would of thought

#8 minimissionary

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:41 AM

It was. Just got paranoid with the combination of mayo forming, coolant disappearing, and a slight pop from the exhaust. I think I just need to give it a good run now. Will report back tomorrow, hopefully with good news. Failing that, I'll sit down, cry, then get drunk.

#9 mini_in_progress

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:42 AM

from filling the rad from empty and starting it up opening the heater up id say it could be 3-4-5 litres thats normal.. keep going till the engine is up to temp and the thermostat opens.. top up again and shes all good....

as long as your torque settings are right :P

#10 Tupers

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:43 AM

Surely the chances of the block being warped are slim to none?


I know of at least 2 cars it's happened to one of them being my MPI which went through 2 head gaskets before I realised the block needed skimming. It's hard to do but it is possible to warp a block.

#11 minimissionary

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:44 AM

Torqued up to 70nm. Equates to about 52lb/ft. It was a very accurate Snap-on too, so I trust it. Did the whole thing pretty much to the letter, so I'm praying all is well.....

#12 minimissionary

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:46 AM


Surely the chances of the block being warped are slim to none?


I know of at least 2 cars it's happened to one of them being my MPI which went through 2 head gaskets before I realised the block needed skimming. It's hard to do but it is possible to warp a block.


Doom monger :lol: Fingers crossed then eh?

#13 mini_in_progress

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 12:46 AM


Surely the chances of the block being warped are slim to none?


I know of at least 2 cars it's happened to one of them being my MPI which went through 2 head gaskets before I realised the block needed skimming. It's hard to do but it is possible to warp a block.


surely quiet hard to do on a standard iron block tho especially as he said it didn't overheat

#14 lrostoke

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 01:00 AM

Did you back off all the adjusters on the rocker gear before torqueing. Just something I read and do now, If you are torqueing down and the rockers are pushing against to valve springs I guess it can give uneven readings.

I doubt it makes much difference but torque setting is 68Nm

#15 minimissionary

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 01:15 AM

Rockers were all loose when torqueing. I torqued up in increments of 10 from 30nm to 60nm, then 68, then finally after half an hour, to 72nm. Figures on this forum range from 40 to 60 lb/ft, which equates to much higher than what I used.

Thanks for all the help, by the way. :thumbsup:

Edited by minimissionary, 26 February 2012 - 01:16 AM.





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