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5" Speakers In Door, Could I Mount Tweeters In Dashboard?


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#31 abe46

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 01:33 PM

haha That's fine bud. If you change your mind, I have a pair of 5.25" components & 6x9 Vibe Black Airs for sale.

#32 Ruckus

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:34 PM

I should probably change the title! I am opting for the 6.5" as I shall not be having a subwoofer, so it will give me better low level response. Not bought the speakers yet, still hunting for (ideally) thin ones for the door! At the moment it is likely to be the Hertz ESK 165s unless better//similar sounding but thinner speakers emerge.


You can cut a bit out of the doors to help take a 'normal' mid. I even did this on my M3!

It is in fact the best for sound aswell, as the mids will have the whole air space of the doors to work in... just make sure you do a good deadening job.

#33 niko-time

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:57 PM

I think I'd rather just have a little worse sound rather than cutting into my car! Ooo eck. Anyway, I think I have found my speakers, the Pioneer TS-A171Ci. Cheap, not deep (54.3mm), and have a great write up for a budget, idiot proof system which is easy to drive: http://www.talkaudio...ers-review-r944.
This, coupled with a second hand Genesis Profile 2, the wires you (Ruckus) linked before, the door cards from Optimise Automotive, and a bit of sound deadening on the doors (as long as it does not mean the door cards won't fit) and I'm sorted! I just need to double check that my current Head unit has RCA outputs (it must, surely...) and let the mrs choose the colour of the door cards (I'd inevitably pick the wrong colour) and then I should have everything I need to get going. Terribly excited, and should come under £200 if I get a good deal on the Profile 2 and pick up some well reviewed, cheap sound deadening material.

(Although I'm sure that I will have forgotten something/break it when it arrives, but could this be me over the first hurdle? Surely not!)

#34 niko-time

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:28 PM

Nope! New things couldn't be that simple. Head unit has no RCA outputs. Officially it looks like:
Posted Image but it doesn't and has a bigger blanking plate...

Bugger it.


EDIT: Okay, so I will need a new head unit. As I did not install this unit myself (still after-market but I was scared and got a garage to do it), what would be the easiest to go for so I can plug in the existing wiring - would any new one do (of course, with me checking it has RCA outputs) or am I screwed? I remember the garage saying they had to use a converter to make it work.
The cables sort of look like this: (but I may be blooming wrong, this is from a quick google)

Posted Image

EDIT 2: And one more final picture, found from a Serbian site, this is almost definitely what it looks like: http://i36.tinypic.com/349e68g.jpg (Would embed but much too large)

Edited by niko-time, 27 March 2012 - 06:39 PM.


#35 abe46

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:55 PM

AH yes, that's what I had to buy for mine because I had NO connections at all.

Are you anywhere near Plymouth? I could help you out with the wiring if you are haha

#36 niko-time

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:09 PM

Norwich at Uni and Nottingham at home so, well, miles away! That's really nice of you though! I am friends with a great mechanic who would probably do it for peanuts, but I was aiming for that minor sense of elation of actually accomplishing something in my life.....haha

EDIT: So do you mean I may not need a new head unit?

Edited by niko-time, 27 March 2012 - 07:09 PM.


#37 niko-time

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 02:56 PM

Okay, so everything is either ordered or bidded on other than the door cards with speaker pods which I am waiting a total price for. I was wondering whether there was an easy way to wire the speakers without removing the doors? I have ordered a grommet and some PVC sleeving, but it seems to wire it out the way I would need to remove the door which I really want to avoid.

Cheers for all the help through this thread!

#38 abe46

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 03:09 PM

Removing the doors is a bit drastic. You should be able to wire it in easily and sleeve wrap them so they look neat.

Obviously you will have to allow a bit of extra wire for when you open the doors. Have a look on ebay for some braided sleeves, make sure its the right size for your cables, you want a good tight fit. When you squeeze the sleeve together it expands, making it easy to push them over the speaker wires.



#39 niko-time

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 03:27 PM

Phew! Glad I don't have to. Just searching examples on this forum seems like that is commonly suggested. Where would I thread it through then, or would you recommend it just hanging out? I was hoping to copy this:

Posted Image
or this
Posted Image

but could not find any simple steps of how to achieve it. I ordered the grommet used in picture 1.

Edited by niko-time, 30 March 2012 - 03:28 PM.


#40 abe46

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 03:47 PM

If you want to replicate the set up in the pictures, I imagine you would have to drill a hole where the grommet is. You should be able to do with from inside the cabin, and if you remove the door stays at the top of the door, you should be able to swing the door wide enough to get the drill in there as well.

Hope this helps!

#41 niko-time

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 04:31 PM

Cheers, that really does help and qualms my fears. Looking forward to everything arriving!

#42 abe46

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 05:10 PM

Make sure you paint over and holes you drill! Don't want them becoming rust traps :)

#43 niko-time

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 05:19 PM

I'm going to have to get some paint then! That's good to know, thanks for telling me. In fact, my brother may have some old warhammer paint lying around....would any paint do?

#44 abe46

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 05:25 PM

If you arent bothered about the finish, hammerite or similar would do the trick as its primer and top coat in one. Although its only a small area, so use what you have!

#45 niko-time

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 05:27 PM

Good stuff, only concerned about the rust rather than the finish!




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