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#16 Brams96

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 10:34 PM

Sounds like a good plan, it's going to be a right pain though. :thumbsup:

Edited by Brams96, 04 April 2012 - 10:35 PM.


#17 Pewizzle

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 10:41 AM

The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is

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Edited by Pewizzle, 06 September 2012 - 10:49 AM.


#18 sonikk4

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 01:22 PM

The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is


How is this relevant to this thread??

#19 mini-reub

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 03:48 PM

I'm just doing this exact bit! As Sonikk4 said, i couldn't get to the corners behind the gusset so had to drill out the spot welds. Took only a few minutes and its proper nasty behind there! Can't see very well, but its the same as behind the engine mount tag..

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#20 rally1380

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 05:00 PM

Interesting thread (i suppose!! if you're a body geek like me!) as it's these 'hidden' areas, which if left festering away will really balls things up in the future. Glad to see people are doing it properly, and doing it themselves. good on ya!!!!

#21 PaulColeman

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 05:31 PM

Life's too short to not have a sandblaster!!

#22 sonikk4

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 06:55 PM

A sandblaster is handy but it does not go behind metal plates. That's where the rust is lurking.

#23 rally1380

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 07:09 PM

Yeh....a sandblaster is great and will remove rust from the surfaces you can see, but will leave festering bits to....eeerrrrrr.....fester!!

I appreciate that some people would look at the above method as overkill, but in reality it is the only way to get rid of rust, and it is rust that kills classic cars!!!

Plus if your are going to all the effort of stripping paint and rust from a shell, and then getting it looking spanking with new paint....the last thing you want to happen is rust to start appearing from places that you couldn't be arsed getting at.

Life's to short not to have a sandblaster.....lifes to short not to do a job properly!

#24 sonikk4

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 07:29 PM

Every clip/ bracket / mount etc on Project Erm had rust behind it including the steering rack mount so its worth doing it. If you see anything that's starting to bulge or deform then 9 times out of ten that will be rust doing its evil stuff.

Its exactly the same thing on Aircraft, if a joint or panel is starting to bulge then there will be corrosion at work. Its a bummer to have to do these things but if done properly the first time then you should not have to redo that area again.

#25 tiger99

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Posted 08 September 2012 - 03:40 PM

I guess that you really have to take apart every seam on the car and reduce it to a loose pile of panels to get all hidden rust out. Fortunately the worst rusting seams are on panels which themselves often need to be replaced, so those joints will be opened up anyway, but does anyone ever remove the bulkhead crossmember for derusting of the seams? And, I may be wrong here, but I seem to recall that there is a lap joint between toeboard and bulkhead. That one may be preserved by oil leaking from the engine, sometimes, but would be a very major job to disassemble.

I am thinking that, if you can weld to the necessary standard, the best method to prevent a recurrence of rust in seams is to have a contionous airtight weld all around, on both sides. That is the method used on large steel structures, such as bridges, where the metal thickness is locally increased by welding on doubler plates, and it works. But it would be hideously time-consuming and just plain difficult to do it on a thin sheet metal car, and would it be possible to make it airtight? So, the next best thing is to use weld-through zinc based primer before assembling seams, and keep them well flooded with Waxoyl thereafter. Seam sealer on the exposed side, of course, Waxoyl on the inner side usually.

#26 skoughi

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Posted 08 September 2012 - 09:43 PM

Whip off the triangular part that goes from the crossmember to the inner wing. It's only a few spotwelds and if yours is anything like mine then there will be plenty of rot behind there as well.

#27 Pewizzle

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 05:29 PM


The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is


How is this relevant to this thread??


Well under the impression from the link on the homepage leads to this about the mini forum logo, you tell me. i was just following the rules

#28 sonikk4

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 05:38 PM



The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is


How is this relevant to this thread??


Well under the impression from the link on the homepage leads to this about the mini forum logo, you tell me. i was just following the rules


Well having clicked on it myself this now becomes clear. The competition has been closed for some time and for whatever reason the link leads you to this particular thread. The fact this thread has nothing to do with the logo competition should raised a question with yourself??

I will now get the Admin staff to remove the link or to make sure its clear that this is now closed.

#29 Pewizzle

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 06:38 PM




The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is


How is this relevant to this thread??


Well under the impression from the link on the homepage leads to this about the mini forum logo, you tell me. i was just following the rules


Well having clicked on it myself this now becomes clear. The competition has been closed for some time and for whatever reason the link leads you to this particular thread. The fact this thread has nothing to do with the logo competition should raised a question with yourself??

I will now get the Admin staff to remove the link or to make sure its clear that this is now closed.


well when i read the link it sounded legit to post so i didnt read the other comments so i didnt realise myself until you had pointed it out that this was in fact a completely irrelevant thread for it and i have no clue on how to get in touch with the forum to question the reason to why it links to this thread. a misunderstanding to say the least

#30 sonikk4

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 06:43 PM





The Logo i thought would be basic and cool
could not find a way to upload the image without it being on photoshop itself so print screen it is


How is this relevant to this thread??


Well under the impression from the link on the homepage leads to this about the mini forum logo, you tell me. i was just following the rules


Well having clicked on it myself this now becomes clear. The competition has been closed for some time and for whatever reason the link leads you to this particular thread. The fact this thread has nothing to do with the logo competition should raised a question with yourself??

I will now get the Admin staff to remove the link or to make sure its clear that this is now closed.


well when i read the link it sounded legit to post so i didnt read the other comments so i didnt realise myself until you had pointed it out that this was in fact a completely irrelevant thread for it and i have no clue on how to get in touch with the forum to question the reason to why it links to this thread. a misunderstanding to say the least


Its not a problem and its highlighted an issue. If you find something that is amiss with a thread whether its spam, somebody hijacking your thread etc then hit the report at the bottom of each post and then type in your issue. That way it goes to the report section and we as staff can then deal with it. :D




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