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Roller Painting With Hammerite


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#16 sonikk4

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:18 PM

I have used the spray tins of Hammerite and on a vertical surface it is prone to running so you need to be very careful. And like already mentioned it does not like other paints and will react. If you decide to remove it make sure you remove all traces.

Not sure how it would roll though but when its applied well on a primed surface the results are good.

#17 Daviewonder

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:49 PM

Gotta be a bad idea?

#18 1984mini25

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:56 PM

I’ve rollered my 25 with silver hammerite thinned slightly, ok so it won’t win any show and shine prises. But it good enough for a mini that is abused used daily and left outside all year round. plus the wheels and trim were done with spray cans form halfords.

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I’ve also recently rollered this one with 2 coats of dulux straight from the tin.

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Edited by 1984mini25, 06 April 2012 - 10:02 PM.


#19 1984mini25

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 10:12 PM

yehhhh right and how much 1200 wet and dry?

None, I used some wet and dry foam sanding blocks (used dry to start off with and then wet between painting) to key the old paintwork and primer on the bare metal areas and then paint. If the paint is rollered on just thick enough not to leave dry patchy areas 90% of the sanding marks disappear after the first coat and are gone completely by the second. The green dulux one, well that’s exactly as it is from the roller, its not even had any polish near it yet. Plus with the cost of the primer, sanding blocks, paint, masking and rollers it owes me no more than £30.

#20 1984mini25

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 10:15 PM

looks too good to be rollered?


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#21 bluesprite

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 09:28 AM

I’ve also recently rollered this one with 2 coats of dulux straight from the tin.

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How long did the whole process take to do the green one? Do you think you could do it panel by panel so it is only off the roads on weekends? It looks pretty damn good for £30!

#22 1984mini25

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:12 PM



I’ve also recently rollered this one with 2 coats of dulux straight from the tin.

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How long did the whole process take to do the green one? Do you think you could do it panel by panel so it is only off the roads on weekends? It looks pretty damn good for £30!

Tricky one that, both probably took just over a week each with all the removal of the trim, prep and then painting.
The thing is each coat needs at least 16hours to dry between wet sanding and recoating, plus each 4" foam roller head is a one use deal. So it actually works out quicker and cheaper just to roller the whole car in one go.

#23 Brams96

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 02:16 PM

1984mini25 - Sorry, but isn't that Dulux paint just a wall paint, ie not for metal? I'm not convinced that it'll still look that good in a years time either.

OP - There are plenty of Rustoleum roller paint clips on Youtube etc & even one on Rustoleums own website. Be careful with which primer you use though if you go for Rustoleum as their combi colour reacts with some types of primer.

#24 1984mini25

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 02:32 PM

The dulux I used is for interior and exterior use on wood and metal. But as the particular shade of green I’d started using on the floors previously was discontinued I had to have it mixed up, hence why its not in the standard off the shelf tin.

#25 AVV IT

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 02:39 PM

As others have mentioned Hammerite tends to react when other more conventional auto paints that are applied over the top. So whilst I've used it somewhere out of sight like floor pans, under arches and the boot floor etc. I really would avoid using it on outer panels, just in case you want to respray the car at some point in the future, or even need to do a touch up somewhere with a rattle can.

Edited by AVV IT, 07 April 2012 - 02:40 PM.


#26 1984mini25

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 02:49 PM

As others have mentioned Hammerite tends to react when other more conventional auto paints that are applied over the top. So whilst I've used it somewhere out of sight like floor pans, under arches and the boot floor etc. I really would avoid using it on outer panels, just in case you want to respray the car at some point in the future, or even need to do a touch up somewhere with a rattle can.

You can still use hammerite spray cans over the top of rollered on hammerite. At least I have never had any problems after having to redo the bonnet a few months later, because some very nice person had decided to target a select few cars in the street with a metal scouring pad. The only problem with the cans is the lack of paint in them, meaning you need more cans to build up the same coverage as one coat with a roller.

Edited by 1984mini25, 07 April 2012 - 02:49 PM.


#27 richw911

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:05 PM

The cars pictured that have been rollered look great!! :shades:

We did this spray job in our garage with basic tools for the cost of paint and materials = £100 (by no means perfect close up)

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We were very pleased with the out come for amateurs.

#28 AVV IT

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:20 PM

You can still use hammerite spray cans over the top of rollered on hammerite. At least I have never had any problems after having to redo the bonnet a few months later, because some very nice person had decided to target a select few cars in the street with a metal scouring pad. The only problem with the cans is the lack of paint in them, meaning you need more cans to build up the same coverage as one coat with a roller.


Sorry, I didn't mean that applying rattle can Hammerite over Hammerite would be a problem. I meant that applying a standard auto paint from a rattle can might cause you a problem in the future, if you either forgot, or didn't realise that you were trying to over paint existing Hammerite.

Edited by AVV IT, 07 April 2012 - 03:21 PM.


#29 1984mini25

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:40 PM


You can still use hammerite spray cans over the top of rollered on hammerite. At least I have never had any problems after having to redo the bonnet a few months later, because some very nice person had decided to target a select few cars in the street with a metal scouring pad. The only problem with the cans is the lack of paint in them, meaning you need more cans to build up the same coverage as one coat with a roller.


Sorry, I didn't mean that applying rattle can Hammerite over Hammerite would be a problem. I meant that applying a standard auto paint from a rattle can might cause you a problem in the future, if you either forgot, or didn't realise that you were trying to over paint existing Hammerite.


Sorry I sort of miss read it as well. But saying that I’ve had paint reactions in the past from rattle cans, were the second coat has then reacted with the previous one even though both coats have been from exactly the same can. So I guess it might just be down to luck if it will react or not.

#30 L16m

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 05:19 PM

I have to say that one painted with dulux turned out really good. Did you use primer? If do which?
I am going to use this primer (2 coats). Good or bad? I am going to roll the primer on aswell as the main paint.




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