42 replies to this topic

[mini-luke]

I haven't a clue what I'm doing to be honest, I've set the gains in accordance with the amp manual but there's not a lot on crossover settings in there. Setup is a Kicker KX700.5 5 way amp, 2 KX65 components in pods at the front with tweeters on the A pillar and two more KX65's without a tweeter or crossover straight to the amp under the back seat. I've also got a not very good 12'' Fli sub which has been wired straight to the sub bypassing the integrated amp - it was free!

Here's what I've got to play with:


There's also a High-Low level setting for Amp 1 and Amp 2, which according to the instructions dictates whether bass information is sent to those channels. The front two comps are on Amp 1 and the ones under the seat Amp 2.

Here's the manual if it helps: http://www.kicker.co...700_5Manual.pdf

Any guidance gratefully received!

[Ruckus]

Ok a few questions

• I cant find anything on KX65 components do you have a link?
• When you say "2 KX65 components in pods at the front with tweeters on the A pillar " do you mean a single pair upfront or do you actually have TWO sets.
• Do the KX65 components up front have passive crossover with them.
• What head unit do you have and what preouts does it have (ie does it have a separate sub output)
• What's the reaoning behind have two sets of the Mid Bass? And worst one set behind you?

to be honest i would start by selling the extra set of Mid bass and the 'not very good' Fli Active sub and with the money raise get a good'ish sub and enclosure..

[mini-luke]

Ok a few questions

• I cant find anything on KX65 components do you have a link?
• When you say "2 KX65 components in pods at the front with tweeters on the A pillar " do you mean a single pair upfront or do you actually have TWO sets.
• Do the KX65 components up front have passive crossover with them.
• What head unit do you have and what preouts does it have (ie does it have a separate sub output)
• What's the reaoning behind have two sets of the Mid Bass? And worst one set behind you?

to be honest i would start by selling the extra set of Mid bass and the 'not very good' Fli Active sub and with the money raise get a good'ish sub and enclosure..

1) They're actually KS650's whoops http://www.kicker.co...ts 4in1 b01.pdf
2) A single pair - i.e two 6.5's and two tweeters
3) Yes, they do, found a use for my glovebox anyway!
4) A Sony CDX GT-200. It's only got one pre-out intended for a sub. The other two channels on the sub are powered by High Level inputs, not ideal but I was reluctant to split the RCA input 3 ways
5) I already had them, so I thought I'd use them

Yes, decent sub's next on the to do list, I'm in the middle of making an enclosure that'll fit in the side of my boot. Any recommendations for a fairly reasonably priced sub?

[Ruckus]

"a fairly reasonably priced sub?"
It's all relative, to some 'reasonably priced' is 15 grand to others is a tenner... Without a ball park figure it's hard to recomend.

Also are you saying that you head unit only has a single RCA preout and that is for subwoofer only, and other than that it's just speaker level outputs?

Cheers

[mini-luke]

"a fairly reasonably priced sub?"
It's all relative, to some 'reasonably priced' is 15 grand to others is a tenner... Without a ball park figure it's hard to recomend.

Also are you saying that you head unit only has a single RCA preout and that is for subwoofer only, and other than that it's just speaker level outputs?

Cheers

It's got a single RCA, and it's labelled sub-woofer, but I think it's full range as it worked OK hooked up to the channel with the comps on.

I'm thinking ~£150 or so, but I'm well aware you get what you pay for.

Thanks for the help

[Ruckus]

Ok give me a little time and I'll come up with a plan for you.

[mini-luke]

Thanks, much appreciated. I've been reading reviews on Talk Audio and think I may go for this one: http://caraudiosecur...s_id/14624.html It was reviewed well and has got to be better than a Fli one!

[mini-luke]

I spent today beginning to make a sub enclosure, I'm aiming for 25l as that's within the lower range of the size for all the subs I've been looking at. If a sub has a recommended enclosure size of 18-35l, will having 35l be beneficial over say 25l?

I also realised that realistically I'll struggle to get a 12'' in and it'll have to be a 10, unless I mount it facing towards the boot lid (is that OK, what sort of distance should I look to leave between the two?). I'm going to make the box removable and velcro it to the bottom of a boot lining kit to stop it rattling around.

[mini-luke]

Here's today's progress:





Excuse the rust stains on the MDF, I'm not too worried as it'll be carpeted. I have yet to cut any holes for the sub as I don't know where it'll be going, in the side or front. I can just about squeeze a 10'' in the side and a 12 in the front, I would have made it bigger but there's only about 5mm height clearance left.

Here's a pic of the amp settings:

[TA2DMAC]

On your amp, your bass is a Low Pass Filter, it allows only frequencies lower than a given point to pass through. Basically anything below the dial.

The other two are High Pass and they allow only frequencies above a given point to pass through.Basically anything above the dial.

For your sub, set it no higher than 120Hz,then adjust down to your liking, the higher you go the more sloppy it will sound because your going more to a full range instead of bass. For a Clean bass I find around 80-100Hz works well.

For your front, I assume the external crossover is being used for the tweeters. If your also using it for the Speaker you can set the Frequency level to 120, this gives you a back up bass blocker just incase the external acts up. Either way start there and increase the filter level up until distotrion is eliminated. Reapeat this for the rear as well.

Do this at about 3/4 volume, find a good tune that fits what your music type is or find a driver test to tune in each component.

MTX makes a good one or try IASCA.

Here's My own Guidline for Component Crossovers, Hope it helps.

Bass 0Hz -100Hz
Mid Bass 100Hz - 250Hz
Mid Range 250Hz - 3000Hz
Hi Range 3000Hz and up

This should get you in the right direction.

by the way I see your sub box looks like it has a few spots where they don't seem to join flush. Did you seal the inside? Air leaks will effect the function of the subwoofer. If you didnt's use a window or rubberized calking on the inside on the seams.

Edited by TA2DMAC, 13 May 2012 - 03:44 PM.

[mini-luke]

Thank you for taking the time to write that, that's exactly what I was after. I've set it all roughly for now and will do it properly when I've got a new sub, just need to decide which one now.

[mini-luke]

Settled on a 10'', I didn't really want to have it playing towards the boot lid and I would have been pushing it volume wise as the box isn't all that big. Have decided to get an optimise boot lining kit, mount the sub surface and run the wires behind the back board. The sub will be velcro'd to the boot floor and on a quick release plug to get it out the way when extra boot space is needed.

[mini-luke]

by the way I see your sub box looks like it has a few spots where they don't seem to join flush. Did you seal the inside? Air leaks will effect the function of the subwoofer. If you didnt's use a window or rubberized calking on the inside on the seams.

Just noticed this, yes, It's sealed with silicone in the joints. That was just a test assembly to make sure it fitted in the boot!

I've ordered a JBL GTO1014 too.

[Ruckus]

by the way I see your sub box looks like it has a few spots where they don't seem to join flush. Did you seal the inside? Air leaks will effect the function of the subwoofer. If you didnt's use a window or rubberized calking on the inside on the seams.

Just noticed this, yes, It's sealed with silicone in the joints. That was just a test assembly to make sure it fitted in the boot!

I've ordered a JBL GTO1014 too.

Make sure the silicone has 100% set/ dried before you put the sub in. Silicone sealant gives off vapour as it sets that can attack and destroy the rubber use in speaker surrounds. :/

[mini-luke]

by the way I see your sub box looks like it has a few spots where they don't seem to join flush. Did you seal the inside? Air leaks will effect the function of the subwoofer. If you didnt's use a window or rubberized calking on the inside on the seams.

Just noticed this, yes, It's sealed with silicone in the joints. That was just a test assembly to make sure it fitted in the boot!

I've ordered a JBL GTO1014 too.

Make sure the silicone has 100% set/ dried before you put the sub in. Silicone sealant gives off vapour as it sets that can attack and destroy the rubber use in speaker surrounds. :/

Thanks for that - didn't know. I won't be putting it together for a week or so anyway. Now to go and order some silentcoat.