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Crossover Setting Help


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#31 mini-luke

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:17 AM

It is made of 20mm mdf and the 8mm recess on each end looses a few litres. I'll double check now.

#32 mini-luke

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:26 AM

Ran it again using the Rockford calculator and got 25.37l, internal measurements are D2 230mm,, D1: 385mm, H: 275mm and W: 300mm.

#33 Ruckus

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:38 AM

I thought it looked big :D

#34 mini-luke

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:44 AM

Fair play, I'm amazed anybody was able to see that! Is it OK slightly larger?

I've just coated the inside of the boot lid with 2-3 layers of flashing tape, I dare it to rattle now! I'll do the parcel shelf, bulkhead and rear 1/4's when I do the boot liner on the weekend.

#35 Brams96

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:58 PM

One question thats not been asked yet is how are you venting the sub into the cabin? Are you removing the speakers in the parcel shelf & covering it with speaker mesh/cloth? Looking good on the box by the way, nice & sturdy at 20mm thick!

#36 mini-luke

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 08:09 PM

There are no speakers in the parcel shelf, so I traced the outline of the factory holes onto the birch ply parcel shelf I made a while back, cut them out and covered it all over with acoustic carpet, including the holes. One flaw, the whining of the fuel pump drives me nuts when I have the stereo off, when I fit a boot lining kit I'll stuff the fuel tank side full of some kind of fire proof insulation.

Today this turned up:

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And was promptly introduced to it's new home:

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It sounds good :gimme:

#37 Ruckus

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:28 PM

and looks it.

nice work.

#38 mini-luke

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:41 PM

Thanks, will look better when I have a boot lining kit fitted and have hoovered the saw dust off it!

Forgot to say I ordered this today so I can connect the sub using banana plugs for easy removal: http://cgi.ebay.co.u...0#ht_682wt_1031

What do you think about the RCA in (or lack of) problem? I'm considering getting a different HU with 3 RCA's.

#39 TA2DMAC

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 12:24 AM

If it works....don't fix it.

#40 Ruckus

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 07:35 AM

Thanks, will look better when I have a boot lining kit fitted and have hoovered the saw dust off it!

Forgot to say I ordered this today so I can connect the sub using banana plugs for easy removal: http://cgi.ebay.co.u...0#ht_682wt_1031

What do you think about the RCA in (or lack of) problem? I'm considering getting a different HU with 3 RCA's.


Well as long as you amp has all the active crossover settings you tecincally dont need more.
But having front/rear/Sub does mean you can play with the fader to get a better balance of full range to subwoofer 'on the go' without having to go fiddle with the amp.

It's always nice to be able to 'Bass Out' on demand ;D

Edited by Ruckus, 17 May 2012 - 07:36 AM.


#41 mini-luke

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 01:57 PM

The remote bass control that comes with the Amp's pretty good for that too, it's easier to adjust when you're going along than the HU so I tend to use that. Trying to decide what to change next now! I really should leave things alone lol

#42 Ruckus

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 02:37 PM

Any device that boosts anything in car audio is bad news, as most time this 'Boost' will be push a set or small range of frequencies (normally around 45hz) up in to clipping. Yes it will sound louder but it's bad, I know this first hand after killing a pair of RF power 15's when I was I lad that knew very little but thought he knew every thing.
The bass boost was how I manage to kill the subs although the amp was rated under their RMS power handling... I leant a few things after that costly episode.

Edited by Ruckus, 17 May 2012 - 02:39 PM.


#43 mini-luke

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 05:07 PM

That doesn't sound good :ohno:




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