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Radius Arm Stub Axle Wear/damage (Pics Inside)


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#1 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 02:50 PM

Before getting my car MOT'd a couple of months ago, I noticed slight play in the rear hubs. I found that the hub nut had backed off a was resting on the split pin. So I took it off and repacked the bearings with grease, before refitting them and tightening the bearing so it had no play. The car passed its MOT and has only done maybe 100 miles max since, none of which at more than 50mph.

Then, the car developed an unhealthy clicking noise from one of the rear hubs. So I've bought some new bearings and all new hubs (they were on sale so thought I may aswell) and went to take the old stuff off and fit the new. So off came the old and I had a closer look and found the stub axle of the radius arm is damaged. I seem to remember the marks being there the first time I repacked these bearings, but didn't think much it because I couldn't feel it with my nail. This time however i've looked more closely and i'm not too confident in fitting my new hubs and bearings to this arm now, so looking for second opinions.

The camera flash highlights the damage and makes it look worse than it does to the eye, but either way the damage is there and is hardly confidence inspiring.

There is a ring worn all the way around the axle, this doesn't seem major as if can't be felt by a fingernail, but there is some areas of deeper damage, almost like hairline surface cracks which can be felt with a fingernail although only just. Even the part of the axle which the backplate fits over looks like its taken a beating somehow.

All I can think is that a bearing in the past has seized onto the axle and been removed with brute force. What do people think of this from the photos?

I would rather replace the arm if this is going to cause damage to my new hubs and bearings, and the rad arm on the other side of the car has slight play in it anyway so probably not long left in them as it is.

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#2 sonikk4

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 03:02 PM

If i was you and the fact that you have doubts i would change them. You do not want these to fail and if there are hair line cracks then they are shot.

Better to be safe than sorry in my opinion and if it was my car they would be changed.

#3 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 03:28 PM

I thought the same to be honest, was just wondering if this was a common sight and nothing to worry about.

Radius arms don't seem too bad to replace, I just hope theres no seized bolts!

#4 Artstu

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 03:33 PM

New stub axle http://www.minispare...|Back to search

I've heard of people just knocking them out without a press.

Edited by Artstu, 03 September 2012 - 03:34 PM.


#5 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 05:00 PM

I'd just go for a refurbed arm I think. I've heard you need a 10 tonne press to get them moving sometimes so the bench in the garage will probably come off the wall trying to hammer one of them out!

#6 danie garry

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 05:04 PM

well if you're going for refurb'd arms then put your old arm onto a log or something and take a hammer to it!!

#7 dklawson

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 05:20 PM

well if you're going for refurb'd arms then put your old arm onto a log or something and take a hammer to it!!


Why?

Tag the pin as suspect and turn it in as a core. The rebuilder will inspect it and replace the stub axle if necessary. It certainly is not scrap.

#8 Big_Adam

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 06:35 PM


well if you're going for refurb'd arms then put your old arm onto a log or something and take a hammer to it!!


Why?

Tag the pin as suspect and turn it in as a core. The rebuilder will inspect it and replace the stub axle if necessary. It certainly is not scrap.


Seconded , that and places take rear arms to get a bit off new referbs and they will charge you if the arms are bent. Which, whacking them with a hammer against a log will probably do.

#9 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 06:45 PM

I think he just meant if i'm going for the refurb arms I may aswell give removing the axle a try.

Can anyone recommend a good penetrating oil thats available from usual DIY shops? I really want to avoid shearing the arm bolts so i'll soak them first and all i've got is WD40...

#10 Big_Adam

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 06:58 PM

PlusGas seemed to come out well in a recent PPC magazine test. Be the simplest to find anyway.

Anyway, I got a subframe second hand recently. Only sheered 2 bolts. And that had been sitting out for a fair old while. Eventually just pounded the stuck bolts out, just going to do big washer and nylon locking nuts when I rebuild.

#11 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 07:02 PM

Yeah i've heard of that stuff, not sure what i'll get it though. Just been having a quick google, I can get duck oil spray from Machine mart or 3 in 1 do a penetrating spray.

Can't see plus gas on screwfix/machinemart/B&Q not sure where else to look.

Can I use nuts and bolts with the subframe on the car though? Taking the subframe off is the main thing I really want to avoid.

#12 Big_Adam

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 07:08 PM

Can I use nuts and bolts with the subframe on the car though? Taking the subframe off is the main thing I really want to avoid.


Ah no then. My subframe is currently on the bench, so I can get a spanner around the back to do the nuts up (might zap some new ones on, no idea yet).

#13 dklawson

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:06 PM

DIY penetrating oil: 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

Liberally apply, strike with a few hammer blows, wait. Repeat a couple of times before trying to take things apart.
With stubborn bolts wiggle the bolts in and out, not just out. If they remain stubborn when they start to move, back them out a bit, apply more penetrating oil, then tighten again to work the oil into the threads. Don't be tempted to fight a tight bolt by simply unscrewing it using more and more torque. The results are usually "bad".

#14 danie garry

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 10:19 PM

I think he just meant if i'm going for the refurb arms I may aswell give removing the axle a try.

Can anyone recommend a good penetrating oil thats available from usual DIY shops? I really want to avoid shearing the arm bolts so i'll soak them first and all i've got is WD40...


i did mean removing the axle!! whats the worst that can happen!

Edited by danie garry, 03 September 2012 - 10:19 PM.


#15 mike.

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 10:27 PM

I just can't see how it'll come out just from hammering it. Even if it does I don't think pressing a new one in will be easy, apparently they use heat and massive presses to fit new axles when refurnishing them. I don't want to damage the arm by just hammering at it really, then I can't use it for exchange and thats £50 gone then.

I'll try making my own penetrating fluid, although only place I know that I can get ATF is halfords which will cost me about £8 plus the cost of the acetone. I suppose i'll have enough to last me though.

Edited by mike., 03 September 2012 - 10:30 PM.





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