53 replies to this topic

[gsms]

Recently been given a Mayfair fitted with a 1380cc A+ engine. Its running a stg 4 head with a single 1 3/4" SU carb. Its gonna be used as an every day car.

What I want to know is, what oil should I be using in it? Any suggestions would be helpful.

I use Duckhams 20w/50 in my 1275 A+ Cooper

[Jimmyarm]

I'm with Guessworks on this one, all the mini monkeys I know say its best to use 15w/40 mineral oil and buy cheaper and change regularly....unless you are rich !

Jimmy

[v8mini]

used to use Valvoline racing 20/50 in my 1380, no problems performed well.
going back a few years now, dont really see it about much dont know if they still make it.

[cooper_shaz]

Thanks chaps. Now, what battery do I need? Just found out mine is no longer fit for this world.

You can use a battey that fts an 02 honda accord, or better still peugeot 306 diesel battery drops straight in, much better cold cranking power and only about £30 ish. It will not damage and electrics or place aditional strain on any circuits.

As for the Oil debate, listen to guessworks, he knows what he is talking about.

But unlimately you put in what you want, its your car.

[Grayedout]

I know say its best to use 15w/40 mineral oil and buy cheaper and change regularly

No DO NOT buy cheap because if you buy a cheap 40 grade then I can assure you very quickly it will shear down to maybe even a 30 grade which will start to give you low pressure problems and will not provide the required protection in your engine and gearbox !

You need to treat the oil as a major engine component and not just something you throw in !

If you want to use a 40 grade then use a good quality one such as Castrol SLX and not Tesco's own ! Look on the side of the tin and you want something that has at least passed ACEA A3, B3 classification which shows it's quality.

[Dan]

Not related to what you wrote above which I agree completely with as cheap oil is junk that I wouldn't put in the lawnmower but...

Guessworks wasn't saying he's built 40 gearboxes before, he was saying 40 oil. He probably builds 40 gearboxes every few months, he does a lot of them and sells loads. He knows what he's talking about with them.

[Grayedout]

Yes I realised that but my point was it's still a very small percentage of the total number of Mini gearboxes out there ! Unfortunately it's a no win argument for either of us unless you have two gearboxes that have run the same distance with the same type of driving on two different grades of oil !

Perhaps it's time to write a definitive guide as I have 13 years experience in the Lubricant Research and Testing field !

[Jammy]

Is it not possible that two different grades of oil will run happily in the majority of mini engines?

[Guess-Works.com]

I dont think there's an issue with the whether the oil works or not... 20/50 is very good for worn out older engines... it provides that extra level of 'resitance' ( for want of a better word ) thus maintaining oil pressure...

This is something you don't need in a newly built engine or one which is still in good shape...

What you could actually be doing it just masking a future terminal problem.

[Wil_h]

Well I use Millers Trans M 20w50 http://www.millersoils.net Look in the 'classic' section.

The only oil I know specifically manufactured for engine and gearbox use (i.e. Mini). What is the problem using the 20w50 GW? what damage could it cause?

[Jimmyarm]

No DO NOT buy cheap because if you buy a cheap 40 grade then I can assure you very quickly it will shear down to maybe even a 30 grade which will start to give you low pressure problems and will not provide the required protection in your engine and gearbox

How quickly though ? I understood the whole point of changing the oil frequently was to remove the tiny suspended metal particles that the filter can't catch which are what the major cause of wear ?

Personally, I will be doing a change every 2k - 3k (its going to be a daily driver) and using the Halfords oil as its only £15 a bottle. I would love to do this with the more expensive oils but its uneconomical and would rather change it more frequently on a cheaper oil than run it for longer between changes on a more expensive oil !

Jimmy

[Grayedout]

The oil will start to shear down in literally minutes and with oils you get exactly what you pay for. If you pay more then it will contain better quality, and stronger, additves that will resist shear for longer.

At £15 a bottle (for 4-5 litres) then should be fine just check the specs on the side. It's more the £2.99 stuff that you should avoid like the plague !!

AND of course if you go for even more expensive then you get into the Synthetic region which is a whole different argument again !!!!

For example I changed mine this morning and used Duckams 20W/50 which I plan to do about 6,000 miles on and it was £10.99 !

[Jammy]

What sort of difference in wear would a engine see between running on 20/50W to 15/40W. Surely its got to be minimal difference over the lifespan of the engine?

[Grayedout]

Impossible to answer because there are so many other factors that can have an affect....driving pattern...temperature...climate etc etc !!

Under certain conditions I would say there could be large differences !

[Jammy]

Ok, but theorectically, if both engines, running different grades of oil saw exactly the life?