1842 replies to this topic

[ac427]

 

The engine has done 1200 miles and the only debris in the oil was the moly from the pot joints. The filter was partially blocked and whilst the oil light came on at idle, revving it to about 3k gave 40 psi of pressure. That means the pump couldn't cope with the volume the engine demanded due to the restriction but I can't see it causing that sort of scoring.
Maybe I'm missing something?

metal particles - steel, alloy and brass - will ultimately end up in the sump/gearbox due to the run in process. Sadly these go flying through the oil pump prior to the filter. My process is now to knock the cam in for 20 minutes and do a full oil and filter change. Then again after 100 miles (rings bedded in).

 

Hi Steve, I would have though the oil pump pulls oil from the sump via the oil filter and its housing. Is this definitely not the case?

 

Also, what is 'knocking' the cam in?

[Bobbins]

 

 

The engine has done 1200 miles and the only debris in the oil was the moly from the pot joints. The filter was partially blocked and whilst the oil light came on at idle, revving it to about 3k gave 40 psi of pressure. That means the pump couldn't cope with the volume the engine demanded due to the restriction but I can't see it causing that sort of scoring.
Maybe I'm missing something?

metal particles - steel, alloy and brass - will ultimately end up in the sump/gearbox due to the run in process. Sadly these go flying through the oil pump prior to the filter. My process is now to knock the cam in for 20 minutes and do a full oil and filter change. Then again after 100 miles (rings bedded in).

 

Hi Steve, I would have though the oil pump pulls oil from the sump via the oil filter and its housing. Is this definitely not the case?

 

Also, what is 'knocking' the cam in?

 

 

The oil first passes through the strainer in the sump/gearbox, then through the pump, then through the oil filter.

[Steve220]

 

 

The engine has done 1200 miles and the only debris in the oil was the moly from the pot joints. The filter was partially blocked and whilst the oil light came on at idle, revving it to about 3k gave 40 psi of pressure. That means the pump couldn't cope with the volume the engine demanded due to the restriction but I can't see it causing that sort of scoring.
Maybe I'm missing something?

metal particles - steel, alloy and brass - will ultimately end up in the sump/gearbox due to the run in process. Sadly these go flying through the oil pump prior to the filter. My process is now to knock the cam in for 20 minutes and do a full oil and filter change. Then again after 100 miles (rings bedded in).

 

Hi Steve, I would have though the oil pump pulls oil from the sump via the oil filter and its housing. Is this definitely not the case?

 

Also, what is 'knocking' the cam in?

 

Welcome to the A series and its quirks. Strainer to pump, pump pushes through oil filter, oil filter to main gallery.

 

Because the A series is a solid tappet engine, the cam and followers require bedding in at high rpm (2-2500 rpm for 20 minutes) to profile themselves. The followers aren't flat, they have a slight cone on them, and the cam profile isn't flat, it's pitched to one side. This all allows the followers to spin.

Edited by Steve220, 02 August 2022 - 12:45 PM.

[Petrol]

I haven't posted much but boy, I've been busy!
I've stripped all the suspension and rebuilt it, the MAIN problem is quality of parts. I've yet again repleced every single rubber boot because they were perished or split, including handbrake lever with "genuine Girling", every knuckle joint boot with Minispares poly, new track rod ends, new balljoints.... Yep the rubber boots fell to bits on those too.
I'm well aware about grease attacking rubber components but give me a break, rubber boots used to last years. I'm also aware of red rubber grease and have used it extensively over the years.
It's just about ready to start up now, just waiting for a few parts.
I hope it all works out because if it does, it's going on the track for a right to good thrashing
Pete

[1330RG]

Fingers crossed for you.

Is a hell of a build but has been joke the way you have had to replace 90% of the parts due to the quality fork siad supplier.

[Petrol]

Thanks, I've got my fingers crossed too

I've done quite a lot of mods which should improve a lot of things I wasn't 100% happy with, I've moved the engine a bit further forwards for better carb clearance. This also pushes the LCB Y piece upwards giving more exhaust clearance. Combine that with a centre exit Maniflow system which has a torpedo centre box and it should be the end of scraping the exhaust system on speed bumps. I'm also going to run it about stock ride height which will give better handling and more grip on undulating surfaces.

Pics of where I'm up to, Engine bay is not as messy with the new breathers and adjustable engine stays. Had to buy a stainless bracket to move the ignition coil. I've not used U brackets on the exhaust but stainless clamps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

[fokko]

Great work! Looks like you're almost there . I use similar exhaust clamps and they work much better than the ones supplied with the exhaust. Above all, they don't rust! Keep up the good work!

[panky]

Looking fantastic  Those Mikalor clamps are great for silicon hoses too as they spread the load more and don't dig in as much.

[Maccmike8]

Beautifull.

[ac427]

Thanks, I've got my fingers crossed too

I've done quite a lot of mods which should improve a lot of things I wasn't 100% happy with, I've moved the engine a bit further forwards for better carb clearance. This also pushes the LCB Y piece upwards giving more exhaust clearance. Combine that with a centre exit Maniflow system which has a torpedo centre box and it should be the end of scraping the exhaust system on speed bumps. I'm also going to run it about stock ride height which will give better handling and more grip on undulating surfaces.

Pics of where I'm up to, Engine bay is not as messy with the new breathers and adjustable engine stays. Had to buy a stainless bracket to move the ignition coil. I've not used U brackets on the exhaust but stainless clamps.


Pete

Great work Pete.

Are you using silicone hoses, they look like standard pipes?

Edited by ac427, 18 August 2022 - 04:10 PM.

[Petrol]

Great work Pete.

Are you using silicone hoses, they look like standard pipes?

 

No, just standard pipes. I've not had good experiences with silicone hoses over the years due to swelling under pressure and being too soft for the clamps. Correct me if I'm wrong but silicone hoses are still not fitted to car's manufactured today. That's why I went for trusty old fabric reinforced "rubber" OEM is best in many ways and the coolant hoses are one of the few parts I have re fitted.

Pete

[Petrol]

 

Welcome to the A series and its quirks. Strainer to pump, pump pushes through oil filter, oil filter to main gallery.

 

Had some thoughts on this, the stock filter head has a bypass valve, if the filter gets blocked, the valve opens and allows oil to flow to the engine. I fitted an aftermarket filter head with no bypass. Yeah the various particles of debris would have flowed around the engine with the stock head but it would have probably saved a lot of damage to my engine. Dirty oil is better than no oil at all.

Just a thought

Pete

[Petrol]

It's now running. I couldn't set the timing static so I guessed it. After a bit of standoff out of the air filter, I turned the distributer to get it running a bit better.
I ran the cam in for 20 mins at 2000 RPM and all is looking good. Iv'e now set the timing with a strobe and it idles spot on.
I haven't driven it but it seems to run much better. My guess is the head gasket was knackered the instant it was started first time round.

 

I've uploaded a vid to Imgur but have no idea how to embed it.

 

 

https://imgur.com/a/KJooAGQ

 

 

 

Pete