1842 replies to this topic

[johnR]

I know a single carb may be more efficient and easier to set up etc but if you're going to show the car at all with the bonnet up twin carbs look so much better! Especially as you've spent so much time and money on that engine.

[Petrol]

I understand what your saying and yes they do look awesome but I want to get it running and reliable first. No good having blingy twin carbs and the rest of the car not 100%

Subframe off..... Have to say it's breaking my heart all this but on the plus side, nothing is siezed!

 

 

 

Front upper arm shaft is worn after 1200 miles. These are Minisport parts and will be going in the bin. Looks like they haven't been heat treated.

 

Balljoints have gone sloppy too, again from Minisport. These are the boots

 

I also fitted a Minisport steering rack which leaked. That's also going in the bin to be replaced with a Minispares one

Painted first and I bought some stainless lock nuts for the track rod ends

 

 

Fitted

 

 

 

I'm going to strip the rear suspension and bin the radius arm shafts too. There won't be much in the way of Minisport parts on this car when I've finished.

For those who have followed this build from the start, you will be fully aware of the problems I've had with Minisport parts and the machining they did. For those new to the thread, the best advice I could give you is don't bother buying anything from Minisport. Most of their parts are cheap and not fit for purpose and the machined parts I had done had to be replaced. Buy from them and you will have to replace very very soon! In actual fact my old block and crank that they knackered, is in the showroom due to the blingy paint job I did. I would love someone from Minisport to contact me. It would be nice to explain the problems I've had and the huge amount of money I've wasted with them.

Things are looking good with this car now but it's come at a massive price and an insane amout of time.

Thanks for looking

Pete

 

 

 

[evoderby]

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese! 
 

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

[Tones61]

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese!

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

John guess at guessworks supplies these in U.K.

[evoderby]

Great stuff, that’ll take the guesswork out of shipment to the UK…..

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I’ll get me coat.

[alex-95]

 

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese!

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

John guess at guessworks supplies these in U.K.

 

Guessworks ones aren't exactly the same as the ones classic minis japan sell, incase you didn't know. They're a cheaper version...

[gaspen]

 

 

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese!

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

John guess at guessworks supplies these in U.K.

 

Guessworks ones aren't exactly the same as the ones classic minis japan sell, incase you didn't know. They're a cheaper version...

 

 

Yes, those balljoints are the same. GW imports them from Japan (AFAIK) 

 

If you purchase them from Japan it will be more expensive due to customs/shipping cost.

[alex-95]

 

 

 

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese!

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

John guess at guessworks supplies these in U.K.

 

Guessworks ones aren't exactly the same as the ones classic minis japan sell, incase you didn't know. They're a cheaper version...

 

 

Yes, those balljoints are the same. GW imports them from Japan (AFAIK) 

 

If you purchase them from Japan it will be more expensive due to customs/shipping cost.

 

Slightly different as per this Facebook post from classic minis japan. https://www.facebook...857038811027898

 

sorry for clogging up your thread petrol

[Petrol]

I asked for a quote from the guy in Japan. They are about £180 a set and likely to be import tax on top.

If I could guarantee the engine and gearbox would deliver the goods, I might have bought a set but for now, I just want to get it running right.
I've got more basic issues to worry about like the clutch slave cylinder is leaking.....

First one I bought didn't work at all so I binned it. Can't remember where I bought this one from but it wasn't Minisport. What's my best bet for No. 3?

A Minispares pre verto genuine?

 

 

https://www.minispar...sic/GSY110.aspx

 

Thanks

Pete

[Petrol]

Just to add
I'd like to thank everyone for the input and no one is clogging the thread. I assumed that when this car was built there would be minor teething issues but wasn't expecting a full on engine and gearbox rebuild.
As you can see I'm not out of the woods yet because everything I'm looking at has either failed or has worn prematurely. The goal now is to rebuild the car so it's safe and fit parts that will last a reasonable length of time.
All feedback is 100% welcome and thanks for those who have given me a heads up whilst assembling this rebuild.
I also hope that my experiences help others who are trying to source reasonable quality parts that will last.
That's what these forums are all about.

 

Again thanks
Pete

[timmy850]

I’d strip down that slave and see what the bore condition is like. If it’s still OK a new seal kit will sort it out

[gaspen]

 

 

 

 

I know you’re no stranger to Japanese engineering….if you want your balljoints to last, buy Japanese!

https://classicminis...ee-ball-joints/

John guess at guessworks supplies these in U.K.

 

Guessworks ones aren't exactly the same as the ones classic minis japan sell, incase you didn't know. They're a cheaper version...

 

 

Yes, those balljoints are the same. GW imports them from Japan (AFAIK) 

 

If you purchase them from Japan it will be more expensive due to customs/shipping cost.

 

Slightly different as per this Facebook post from classic minis japan. https://www.facebook...857038811027898

 

sorry for clogging up your thread petrol

 

 

For some reason your link is not working for me 

 

I just read this on Gueesworks shop :

 

These balljoints are imported from Japan and are designed to be quick fit replacement for the original ball joint

 

 

Guessworks - NSR Baljoint - Pair BTRSC-NSR2 (guess-works.com)

[Petrol]

I’d strip down that slave and see what the bore condition is like. If it’s still OK a new seal kit will sort it out

I'd rather throw some money at a new one. The bores might not have a good enough finish to seal.


I'm thinking of welding these two plates to the front subframe

 

I jack the car up here and the subframe tends to tends to buckle a bit where the jack sits.

 

I can't see any downsides to doing this and plating it with this

 

 

 

Should sort it

 

 

Pete

[PoolGuy]

These guys are worth checking out if you want to be sure that your brake cylinders are top notch http://www.pastparts...ory&path=84_250

[fokko]

 

I'm thinking of welding these two plates to the front subframe

[...]

 

I jack the car up here and the subframe tends to tends to buckle a bit where the jack sits.

 

I can't see any downsides to doing this and plating it with this

 

[...]

 

Should sort it

 

 

Pete

 

 

I certainly recognize this...

You might get rust between the plates and the subframe though... 

There is an alternative; the jack block (although it requires more effort to make): https://www.theminif...hl=+jack +block

 

Certainly liking all of the steps you're taking   , although the reason to do so is terrible  ​ 

Keep it up!