1842 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

 

I certainly recognize this...

You might get rust between the plates and the subframe though... 

There is an alternative; the jack block (although it requires more effort to make): https://www.theminif...hl=+jack +block

 

Certainly liking all of the steps you're taking   , although the reason to do so is terrible  ​ 

Keep it up!

 

 

The way to stop rust forming is to weld the plate on

 

 

 

 

Then force Electrox zinc primer in the seam

 

 

 

I will seam seal around the join when the electrox is dry. The electrox will sacrifice itself to stop the steel corroding. In doing so it will use up the oxygen in the void. If I seal it properly, no oxygen means no rust. That's the science behind it anyway.....

The wooden blocks look good if you have a concourse car, but this build definitely isn't and it's easy to just roll the jack under and away we go.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

Seam sealer around the plates

 

 

 

 

 

Just need to re spray the subframe, fit it and drop the engine in

Pete

[Petrol]

Bit of an update
Front subframe re sprayed. It took me hours to flat it back using 1000 wet and dry.
Might be worth a mention..... The paint I'm using that gives a very shiny finish is Besa Glass 2K. Bilt Hamber Epoxy mastic is very had but dries to a satin finish which can be seen on the timing cover. Depends what finish you want.

Re fitted

Getting there slowly

Pete

 

 

[Mini_MikeG]

Glad to see your moving forward with this project again! I'm still shocked at the quality of some of the components have been supplied.

 

I couldn't see it in any of your previous posts, have you added a stainless steel plate to the front panel for the bonnet catch to rub against?

[Petrol]

Glad to see your moving forward with this project again! I'm still shocked at the quality of some of the components have been supplied.

 

I couldn't see it in any of your previous posts, have you added a stainless steel plate to the front panel for the bonnet catch to rub against?

I fitted the stainless striker plate when I built the shell It's bonded to the front panel.

I'm still shocked at the quality of some of the parts and in particular, the tapered crank grind by "The worlds premier Mini specialist" I'm also still removing parts they supplied from my car and binning them. That's why I'm completely stripping the steering and suspension front and rear after only 1200 miles.
I feel it's important to raise awareness about poor qualty / dangerous parts so others don't have the same problems and frustrations I have had. Whilst the budget on this build was "not a problem", it's not a race car and I didn't feel the need to buy all singing all dancing mega bucks components.

I've just ordered another £300 worth of parts to replace components that are perished / worn / poor quailty. The total cost of this "rebuild" will be about £2K
The moral of the story here is to think carefully about the quality of parts you are fitting to your Mini.


On the plus side the engine is now ready to drop in. The jacking plates on the front subframe are great and it's all looking good.
Thought I'd never say this but fingers crossed it all works out this time.

Pete

 

[DeanP]

Problems aside, this is a beautiful build, thank you for sharing. I’ve had issues with parts from minisport, not to your extend, just a front piece exhaust that is out of shape. For what it’s worth during any strip down bag and box everything! I mean everything! Something that looks naff could be OEM and could completely outlast anything new by twenty or thirty years.

[Petrol]

Your right about OEM parts DeanP   They last.

Tomorrows job is to put that in there

 

Pete
 

[Petrol]

Hexxeh came over today, I explained a few things because this was his first engine in experience. Didn't take hime long though, I was religated to brewing up.
Happy days!

 

 

 

In fact it was him that inspired me to tear this car apart and fix everything.
Thanks and repect


Pete

 

 

 

[Hexxeh]

Enjoyed it, cheers again!

Can't wait to get it back on the road running right!

[Hexxeh]

I asked for a quote from the guy in Japan. They are about £180 a set and likely to be import tax on top.

 

For anyone interested about the import tax on top: I got quoted £183 incl shipping. Usually they'd be posted but due to the Ukraine conflict Japan Post has suspended service to UK via air, so the seller said he'd send them UPS instead at no extra cost. Due for delivery tomorrow, but UPS sent an invoice for £51 in VAT/handling fees, so £234 all in. Hope they're worth it!

[Petrol]

I'll be interested to have a look at those ball joints


I keep boting bits on so I guess that's progress
I've tidied up the loom across the front panel and fitted a new alternator plug

 

 

 

 

The bumpstops I re fitted and are AC Dodd from Minispares. They have lasted.
The top arm rebound buffers are new. They are Minispares stainless / poly

 

 

 

New Maniflow exhaust manifold with the original inlet manifold and carb. I've used a turbo gasket

 

 

 

 

Thanks to Hexxeh for the loan of the cone compressor to get the front suspension back on

Pete

 

 

 

[johnR]

looking great!

[Petrol]

Hope it all works out johnR
I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive. I also have a problem with some new lower arm bushes that don't fit. I'm waiting for replacements. I've decided that if anything is not 100%, I won't accept it.

There were a few things that deteriorated pretty soon after I put the car on the road. One of which was the the headlight inner rims which didn't last long outside. I've replaced these with stainless ones
 

 

 

 

 

Another was the RC40 Exhaust.....

 

I'm amazed how poorly these are finished. The other problem with the RC40 is the centre box is big and hangs low. This is what I'm doing to sort it.


Adjustable engine mounts all round.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This has enabled me to move the top of the engine forwards slightly and does 2 things
More clearance for the carb against the bulkhead

Lift the back of the LCB slightly to give more exhaust clearance

 

 

This is a Maniflow centre exit with stainless tail pipe. The centre box is like a torpedo so it can go up into the tunnel.

That's it for now. I keep chipping away at it.
Thanks for looking and all advice is very welome.

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Hman205]

Thank you Petrol for Thai tread you have saved me what would of been a very costly problem.

I have very recently rebuilt my engine and fitted lots of new parts across engine, suspension, brakes but on way to its Mot I ran into problems as the old diff gave up 20ft from the garage the only reason this wasn’t replaced was due to lack of availability on the mini spares x pin diffs.

So I have torn it all back down ready to replace the box but came across your thread which alerted my to check the inner pot joints!! Same issue here they are now in the bin and I will be cleaning and inspecting the gearbox fully as only minor signs of moly in the sump but still some present despite only moving max 40ft up the road before the failure happened.

Thanks again !!

[johnR]

the finish on components is poor these days - I decided that exhausts run cooler the further back they run so I used a mild steel downpipe and two into one collector painted with VHT paint, then stainless pipe and silencer.