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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1756 Tones61

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Posted 25 December 2021 - 10:03 AM

My med set :-)

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#1757 Petrol

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Posted 25 December 2021 - 10:40 AM

Hi mr petrol,
You may find the MED Vernia 180deg out on the timing for the dots to cam timing,
Mine was,I disassembled and turned around via vernia,
Only a 5 min job,
With dots lined up mine was rocking/firing on no4 :-)

Thanks for the heads up!

Pete



#1758 timmy850

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Posted 26 December 2021 - 11:49 AM

Also make sure you loctite and torque up the vernier bolts. A recent build I’ve seen had them come loose, with nearly catastrophic failure.

I’m not sure how you’d be out 180 degrees if the dots lines up? But it’s always worth checking

#1759 Tones61

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Posted 26 December 2021 - 01:52 PM



I’m not sure how you’d be out 180 degrees if the dots lines up? But it’s always worth checking[/quote]

Yes it was either MED vernia assembled wrong,
Or keyway in swifty SW10 180' out. :-)

#1760 imack

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Posted 26 December 2021 - 03:49 PM

Did you compare the dots and keyway on the MED gears with the factory ones?
I think they all time up this way.

Edited by imack, 26 December 2021 - 03:53 PM.


#1761 Petrol

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Posted 27 December 2021 - 09:13 PM

They do all time up the same way but it would be easy for someone to assemble the inner part of the MED sprocket 180 degrees out.
Mine looks OK compared to the Minispares one

48oCDel.jpg

 

Pete



#1762 Tones61

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 12:25 PM

They do all time up the same way but it would be easy for someone to assemble the inner part of the MED sprocket 180 degrees out.
Mine looks OK compared to the Minispares one

48oCDel.jpg

 
Pete

Is the cam timed for firing on no1 cyl? :-)

#1763 Steve220

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 12:33 PM

 

They do all time up the same way but it would be easy for someone to assemble the inner part of the MED sprocket 180 degrees out.
Mine looks OK compared to the Minispares one

48oCDel.jpg

 
Pete

Is the cam timed for firing on no1 cyl? :-)

 

Tony,

 

When you say 'firing', do you mean for inlet valve at full stroke? Because the terminology you're using could be seen as confusing to the amateur engine builder. By the position of the dots vs woodruff in the above pic, it's all set for cylinder no.1.

 

Did you report your findings to MED? A close friend of mine had an issue with some MED parts, and they seem to thrive on their overall reputation, sadly not fixing the one off issues :(


Edited by Steve220, 28 December 2021 - 12:36 PM.


#1764 r.tec

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 01:18 PM

Firing and full stroke IV does not go well at the same time! At ignition (firing) both valves have to be closed. Otherwise no compression!



#1765 Tones61

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 02:31 PM

They do all time up the same way but it would be easy for someone to assemble the inner part of the MED sprocket 180 degrees out.
Mine looks OK compared to the Minispares one

48oCDel.jpg


Pete

Is the cam timed for firing on no1 cyl? :-)
Tony,

When you say 'firing', do you mean for inlet valve at full stroke? Because the terminology you're using could be seen as confusing to the amateur engine builder. By the position of the dots vs woodruff in the above pic, it's all set for cylinder no.1.

Did you report your findings to MED? A close friend of mine had an issue with some MED parts, and they seem to thrive on their overall reputation, sadly not fixing the one off issues :(


Hi Steve,yes I mean by firing on no 1 cyl that the valves are closed on no1 cyl with the lash gap i.e. Being able to rotate pushrods,
And no 4 cyl will be on the rock,i.e. No play in the pushrods :-)
Hope this helps with any confusion,
Thanks for input :-)

Edited by Tones61, 28 December 2021 - 02:32 PM.


#1766 Petrol

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Posted 18 January 2022 - 12:12 AM

I've checked the cam timing and everything seems to be OK.
My MED sprocket was assembled correctly. Huge thanks for the heads up though Tones61, things like that can cause huge problems down the line.


hrUtEiA.jpg

 

 

This was a brand new "genuine" primary gear from you know who......

9mIUi8H.jpg

 

1200 miles seems to have taken it's toll on the front bearing. I've read all sorts about deva bushes and also the push fit bearings bearings that spin on both the crank and the gear itself. I can't see it working because the bush will grab on one surface. This idea was tried on turbo bushes a few years ago and it didn't work.
It amazes me that technolgies from the 50's can't be replicated today so I bought an original used primary gear

 

2n4zBWW.jpg

Then cleaned up the clutch cover

 

4KbLHpK.jpg

 

 

It's difficult when you trust nothing. It makes everything very time consuming but I'm getting there.

Pete

 

 



#1767 Tones61

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Posted 18 January 2022 - 04:06 PM

Hi mr petrol,
Is the idler gear around the right way?
If I remember,the longer bit goes in the gearbox or it can break out the cover/case?
Nice build and pics tho dude :-)

#1768 GraemeC

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Posted 18 January 2022 - 06:12 PM

Looks like an A+ set with 7/8" shaft so it'll be symmetrical



#1769 Steve220

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Posted 18 January 2022 - 08:16 PM

Looks like an A+ set with 7/8" shaft so it'll be symmetrical


Spot on 👍

#1770 Petrol

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Posted 20 January 2022 - 09:11 PM

Yes it's a right mish mash of parts....
The gearbox casing is A+ with pre A+ internals

 

cB3CaJf.jpg

 

 

Clutch is pre verto

 

2zC9ogu.jpg

 

To check the cam timing with the head on, I've marked TDC on the flywheel against the clutch cover

 

4vjJZs1.jpg

It looks out but the pop marks align. Had to put the camera at an angle to take the pic (parallax error)

Pete


Edited by Petrol, 20 January 2022 - 10:26 PM.





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