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Clutch plate replacement


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#1 Mini Mad James

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 07:00 PM

Ive followed the haynes manual upto this point but ive got abit confused where do i go from here?

Ive taken the starter motor off and the ignition coil, do i have to disconnect the engine mounts and lift up the engine to take the flywheel housing off? ;D

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#2 Dan

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 07:09 PM

Yup you need to support the engine properly from underneath and remove the flywheel cover. Get the solenoid out of your way first and chuck it through the air intake hole in the wing (you have disconnected the battery right? If not do that first). Take the clutch slave off by removing the screws holding its mounting plate to the housing and tie it back, you don't need to open up the hydraulics.

#3 Mini Mad James

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 07:19 PM

Cheers dan
couldnt find a small enough philips screw driver to get the solenoid off ;D ill get one tomorrow

Any other tips for changing the clutch plate? ive got a flywheel puller before anyone askes :D

#4 Dan

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 07:24 PM

Make sure the flywheel is locked with the slot in the crank nose horizotal before you do any pulling, in fact get it horizontal before you remove the bolt. Remember to remove the washer in the nose. Lock the flywheel properly. Get the adjustment done properly when the new one is in. You only set the adjustment once in a Verto and if it's a bit wrong now it will get worse over time and can't really be corrected.

#5 Mini Mad James

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 07:43 PM

You only set the adjustment once in a Verto and if it's a bit wrong now it will get worse over time and can't really be corrected.


umm i thought my clutch wasn't a verto ;D as its an 1985 998cc mayfair or am i wrong

#6 Jammy

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 08:01 PM

Your clutch is very definitely verto. The slave cylinder mounted at an angle is a tell tale sign.

Also, when you put the puller on the flywheel, the three bolts that screw into the flywheel, make sure you screw all three in identical amounts.

#7 Mini Mad James

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Posted 11 April 2006 - 08:39 PM

Damn that means ive got the wrong clutchplate
;D
ive always thought it was the other clutch, oh well ill go get a verto one tomorrow

#8 Turbo Nick

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Posted 12 April 2006 - 01:02 AM

i'd wait until you get the wok off first dude so you can tell for sure what type you need.

it looks like a big hash of different parts to me, inertia starter with wing mounted solenoid is usually a pre-verto setup.
but on the other hand you've got the short verto clutch arm and tilted slave bracket which are for the verto type clutch.

It could be possible that you've got a verto clutch with an inertia type ring gear. or you could have the pre-verto setup with the wrong arm and slave on there.



actually isn't that a metro slave cylinder bracket, i'm sure the one that was standard on my original engine didn't have that half circle thing sticking up off the top of it. Could it be possible that the engines not original? and this could be a case of previous owner syndrome?

#9 Mini Mad James

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Posted 12 April 2006 - 01:47 PM

i just got the flywheel housing off
yes its a verto ;D

the haynes manual says "rotate the crankshaft until the driving slot in the flywheel, located just behind the centre bolt head, is horizontal"
What does this mean?

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#10 Jammy

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Posted 12 April 2006 - 02:27 PM

Ok, you have the big bolt holding the flywheel onto the crank taper (with a locktab washer behind it)...then behind that you have another thick washer with a thick tab on it which goes into a slot in the end of the crank. You must make sure this is horizontal. I generally make sure the timing marks are at 3o'clock (where the starter motor hole is).

(Thats what I remember from taking my pre-Verto flywheel off last week, pretty sure its the same for Verto, may want to double check though).

#11 Dan

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Posted 12 April 2006 - 02:45 PM

it looks like a big hash of different parts to me, inertia starter with wing mounted solenoid is usually a pre-verto setup.



Verto clutch is '82 on.

Pre-engaged starter is '85 on. There's three years of Minis with Verto clutch and innertia starter.

Lot's of problems arise like this when people assume that there are these huge master change points in production where everything was changed at once. There aren't, Minis evolved gradually.

Also, looking at that photo again there are some screws missing from your Clutch slave plate.

As Jammy says, you should be able to see the slot in the crank if you look around the bolt head. It is very, very important to get this horizontal. Don't skip this step. And make sure you are looking at the slot in the crank, not in the flywheel centre. They should line up but never assume anything unless you built it.

#12 Mini Mad James

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Posted 13 April 2006 - 11:15 AM

This job is tuning out to be a pain in the ass ;D

Could someone point out the slot in the crankshaft to me and could someone also tell me how to get that washer off so i can get the bolt off i think the last person who did this might have damaged it :D

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#13 Jammy

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Posted 13 April 2006 - 11:22 AM

This is where my knowledge runs out due to this being a Verto clutch and me having never touched a Verto clutch before! :D

I would assume the slot in the collar around the bolt would be in line with the slot in the crank, but since this is such a crucial step I wouldn't want to follow an assumption so don't listen to me! ;D

#14 Mini Mad James

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Posted 13 April 2006 - 11:27 AM

I would assume the slot in the collar around the bolt would be in line with the slot in the crank

I was thinking the same thing jammy but id like to be sure
the washer inside that coller is damaged too dunno how im gunna get it out

#15 miniboo

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Posted 13 April 2006 - 12:32 PM

i think the washer is meant to be like that as it is a locking washer. like you get on ball joints. flatten it off wih a screwdriver and hammer then use a fly wheel puller.




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