39 replies to this topic

[mini_in_progress]

I dare say ill come across this type of thing again so ordered a set of lefthand drill bits from the states to see how they get on with it!!

[mini_in_progress]

Should I get a cheap set of extraction tools too from screwfix or not bother? Few people here have said there ****..

Edited by mini_in_progress, 16 February 2013 - 08:33 AM.

[Carlos W]

Should I get a cheap set of extraction tools too from screwfix or not bother? Few people here have said there ****..

If you buy a cheap set and snap it in there you're just adding to the problem.

The bitterness of poor quality lasts long after the cheap price is forgotten

[dklawson]

Every time EZ-Outs are mentioned on this board I speak against them. There are those who occasionally get them to work... but consider what has happened and what you are trying to do.

Here is the scenario. You want to take a bolt out. You put a socket wrench on the bolt and begin to turn counterclockwise. Nothing moves so you apply more torque. Nothing. You apply more torque and suddenly you feel the head of the bolt twist off and your wrench bounces across the surface. You think "Darn, I need an EZ-Out". You drill a hole down the center of the broken bolt and go to work. The hole and the tool cannot be too large or too small. You need to drill out enough material that you relieve some of the pressure on the threads. However, drill out too much material and the tool pushes the threads hard together while you try and extract the broken bolt (making extraction more difficult). You want to use the large tool so there is less chance of it snapping. You try anyway and the tool either enlarges the hole you drilled OR worse yet it snapped off. Remember... the head of the bolt is not quite twice the diameter and you applied enough torque to it to shear the head off without budging the bolt. Now you are inserting a small, hard (brittle) steel piece less than 1/2 the diameter of the bolt into a tiny hole and expecting it to be able to do what the bolt head did not.

Buy and use EZ-Outs at your own risk. I have not had any for years.

[WillRunci]

ive used Snap-on extractors. they snap u end up with a titanium cored bolt. horrific!

[MRA]

I have used Snap-on easy outs for 30 years, the idea is to use them to back and forth the snapped/rusted bolt/stud, thus allowing penetrating fluid to slowly break down any corrosion, I have used them on 100's of caliper bodies with a few issues over the years, I cannot vouch for the new Snap-on tools, as their quality seems to have dropped to an all time low.

However a set of LH drills are always in the draw as standby :) they work because the heat helps to break the bond, so RH will also work, but LH undo as well so are quicker and less likely to cause damage, you don't drill so deeply with a LH drill. simply because, as the drill cuts to the bottom they stud will often come loose, whereas the RH drill will not and it is very easy to drill straight through, more so if inexperienced.

If it fails there are other ways ;)

[mini_in_progress]

Yeah I can helicoil or timesert it but didnt want to if it could be helped...

[MRA]

Never use helicoils on brake parts.... solid thread inserts are just about ok, remachining to a larger size is best if there is damage.

[mini_in_progress]

Yea thats why I dont want to do it mate....

[dklawson]

If you are planning on a thread insert, skip that and go straight for the nipple repair kit (insert). The conical seat has to be "just right" as far as fit and concentricity if you hope to get a seal. Or... review my first post where I mentioned the "ball" fix.

http://www.fraserbro...t&product_id=51

[mini_in_progress]

I see what your all saying. As for the force involve in snapping it i was using a 1/4 inch rachet and it snapped straight away with barely any force at all.... the repair Looks nice mate but for that price I can buy a brand spanking new caliper..... ill go for theleft hand drill route first and see where it takes me.

[dklawson]

That was the only U.K. kit I could find. In the U.S. the repair kits are sold individually in blister packs "out front" in the parts stores. They use 1/8" NPT pipe taps for mounting and the kits do not include the tap. In the end, those kits cost about $10 (6 GBP or so) but... they expect you to already have the tap and tap drill.

[Ethel]

http://www.tracytool...&product_id=707

http://www.ebay.co.u...2747#vi-content

[mini_in_progress]

That was the only U.K. kit I could find. In the U.S. the repair kits are sold individually in blister packs "out front" in the parts stores. They use 1/8" NPT pipe taps for mounting and the kits do not include the tap. In the end, those kits cost about $10 (6 GBP or so) but... they expect you to already have the tap and tap drill.

Ive got access to normal taps and drills milling machines and lathes etc Im a qualified engineer just out the trade now lol but my old man is in it still just dont like playing with brakes if I can help it id rather get the part out... lol cheers for the info tho as a last resort ill buy one of those

Cheers again buddy

[mini_in_progress]

http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=707

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caliper-Bleeder-Screw-Repair-Kit-Harley-Davidson-/221188532747#vi-content

Cheers for the link mate. I just bought a small set of left handed drills yesterday 12 quid from the states. If I cant get it out that bleed screw looks like the answer..