42 replies to this topic

[Mikalv]

Have you tried turning the key?

??

[SPi Badger]

On an injection mini with an engine bay fusebox (i.e. before it moved into the drivers footwell), the most likely fault is the engine fuse, found in an inline holder just behind the air filter. It is one of 6 or 7 - the handbook tells you which one by the colour of the wires.

These inline fuses were a catastrophically lazy piece of design by Rover and will often cause problems. My SPi has broken down at least 3 times because of the engine one.

I would recommend checking and cleaning the holders at least yearly. They can be replaced if really messy although it's a bit of a fiddly job (be careful not to drop fuse contacts and bits of solder into the injector!) Unless you're dead set on a totally original engine bay they can be replaced by a blade fuse box mounted on the bulkhead.

Next on the list would be the water temperature sensor. This can be tested with Sykes Pickavant ACR or similar. If you don't have one it is worth borrowing an ACR to do this as although the sensor isn't particularly expensive, it is lots of work to replace - it is well hidden under the inlet manifold. If you've got a spark and the fuel pump runs but no starting then it is likely to be this sensor. When it fails, the ECU assumes that the engine is fully warmed up which means the mixture is way too weak to start the engine particularly on a cold day. There is often a run-up to the sensor totally failing - lots of cranking needed to start the engine which then runs rough for a while like a carb model with no choke; and also erratic temp gauge readings.

If there's no spark, after checking for the usual LT and HT problems, check that the crankshaft sensor is working by connecting an electronic rev counter (an ACR will also do this). While cranking the engine it should read 200 - 300 RPM. If it is zero then it is likely that the crank sensor is faulty.

If you have access to an ACR, also run through the fault menus and re-set any faults found. Just doing this alone will often make an injection mini run better as the presence of codes (that may be linked to faults corrected years ago or blips in performance) can make the ECU go into limp home mode. The ECU will then assume average or maximum signals from the various sensors which will not give optimum performance. SPi minis don't have an engine fault warning light to alert you to the presence of fault codes so you may be carrying half a dozen of them without knowing.

Failing that you're into the really tricky diagnostics that absolutely need an ACR to test each component in turn, but it's worth checking relay box on top of the brake servo.

[Mikalv]

On an injection mini with an engine bay fusebox (i.e. before it moved into the drivers footwell), the most likely fault is the engine fuse, found in an inline holder just behind the air filter. It is one of 6 or 7 - the handbook tells you which one by the colour of the wires.

These inline fuses were a catastrophically lazy piece of design by Rover and will often cause problems. My SPi has broken down at least 3 times because of the engine one.

I would recommend checking and cleaning the holders at least yearly. They can be replaced if really messy although it's a bit of a fiddly job (be careful not to drop fuse contacts and bits of solder into the injector!) Unless you're dead set on a totally original engine bay they can be replaced by a blade fuse box mounted on the bulkhead.

Hi and thanks for the response.

I havent replaced my coilpack just yet so I am not ready to rule that out. But I was wondering, what fusebox are you talking about? I don't think there is a fusebox behind the air filter, it's in the front of the car. And I have checked that, actually I replaced the whole box with a fuse-set for boats. Which fuse box are you talking about? http://www.minispare...s.aspx?2~20~201

Unfortunately I don't have any other equpiment than some tools, a multimeter and a Hayes handbook. No other test devices. Any other way to check the crank sensor?

[nev_payne]

SPi Badger's talking about the Late SPI fusebox that was in addition to the 4 in-line fuses.

On MPIs you have the Maxi fuse box at the front of the engine bay, and the driver's footwell fuse box.

The engine fuse equivalent is in the Maxi fuse box.Either fuse 1 or 2 - circuit diagrams and the workshop manual will tell you.

[Mikalv]

Ok, was just in the garage with the replacement Coilpack. I was in a rush and didn't unscrew the old one before I connected the new one. Tried to crank but still same problem. On the back side of the new part I noticed metal, do I need to have this grounded?? Can this be the problem?

[nev_payne]

I've replaced my coilpack and did a full bolt off bolt on, and it's remedied my starting issues, whether or not it's fixed the starting problem I don't know yet.

[Mikalv]

Thanks for all your help. As it turns out it was the connection to the crankshaft sensor who was acting up. I had it apart and did a quick clean but the angle of the wire caused the problems.



Happy easter everyone!

Edited by Mikalv, 29 March 2013 - 03:06 PM.

[nev_payne]

Is this a done and completed deal then?

[Mikalv]

Is this a done and completed deal then?

Jepp. Everything is sorted out. Calm idle around 800-900 rpm, temperature good and sunny weather in Norway :)

[nev_payne]

[liam_italian]

Told ya it would be something simple

[ojames]

Good stuff, it's annoying when you have something that doesn't work and it's hard to track the problem down :)

[Mikalv]

Good stuff, it's annoying when you have something that doesn't work and it's hard to track the problem down :)

Indeed, was driving me insane. Especially when it is as liam_italian said, something simple :)