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Can't Undo Crank Pully


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#16 BVY

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:32 PM

Also when i started the engine last night after the timing chain there was a little bit of squealing if I blipped the throttle. Sounded like a slipping fan belt... I guess that was probably the crank slipping in the fly wheel?



#17 Dan

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:34 PM

  I don't think you'll have that engine much longer, but you won't really know what is wrong with the flywheel until you have a look so it's pointless speculating.



#18 BVY

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:47 PM

Do you think the damage could've been caused because the bolt was loose? The guy I got it off said someone had rebuilt the engine not too long ago. Judging by the bad red paint job they did on the engine, and whole car in fact it was a bit of a bodge.

Like i said, the crank pulley was totally loose too. i bet they didn't torque it up properly as well as not bending the lock tabs....



#19 Dan

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:57 PM

  Yes, once it starts to move the flywheel will destroy the lock plate and that in turn will move and destroy the slot in the crank.  If all that has happened here then there is no real way to make it lock up tight again without a new crank and probably a new flywheel.  As I said though until you look inside there is no real way to know.



#20 BVY

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 06:08 PM

I had a quick feel of the slot. It felt slightly burred but didn't feel massively damaged. Luckily I have another keyway plate. I just hope it's the right size!!
And hopefully I won't need to do a rebuild!! Not now at least anyway!!!

#21 harrymini2012

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 06:14 PM

drop another 998 in and rebuild that on over however long....



#22 BVY

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 08:44 PM

If I had 2 pennies to rub together maybe...

#23 tiger99

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:19 AM

Lap the flywheel to the crank. If you can get a good matt grey finish, showing a good fit, then all will probably be well. The torque is actually handled by the fit of the taper, not the locking plate.



#24 BVY

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 12:34 PM

How do I lap the fly wheel? Do you mean I have to take the engine out etc? this is beginning to sound very scary now!  :X



#25 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 12:55 PM

You want buy or make one of these .

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f255f2a38

 

or the posh version highly recomened

 

http://www.somerford...roducts_id=7332

Hehehe...I was just about to say.....my local guy used a bit of angle iron welded to a plate...



#26 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 01:01 PM

How do I lap the fly wheel? Do you mean I have to take the engine out etc? this is beginning to sound very scary now!  :X

 

Not it's not - you'll need to buy yourself some engineers blue and some cutting compound (the gunsmiths make their own with oil and rotten stone).



#27 BVY

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 01:06 PM

Ok cool. But how do I actually do it? Can I do it with the engine still in? 

 

I was hopefully that I could tighten the fly wheel back up and that be the end of it. I need to stop being so optimistic! it's always so disappointing!  >_<



#28 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 01:12 PM

I wouldn't for the time it will take to pop the flywheel off and gently lap the tapers. Have you ever lapped in valves? If so....you'll be fine.



#29 BVY

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 01:22 PM

Yeah I lapped in some valves years ago. That part is simple enough.
So I guess the fly wheel will come off easily because the taper is already broken...
Then I apply the cutting compound and just turn they flywheel back and forth by hand.
Is it as simple as that?

#30 tiger99

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 07:33 PM

Yes, exactly that. I recommend turning it through quite a few turns each way, maybe about 10, not the two turns or so that you would give a valve.

 

You could start with coarse valve grinding paste, and as soon as it is looking reasonable, move on to fine. You might not get full contact, a few patches of shiny metal are ok as long as you have two full rings of grey at least.






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