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Can't Undo Crank Pully


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#31 BVY

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 10:57 PM

So here's a pic of the keyway locator plate when I removed it. The end of the crank looks ok to me... 

 

http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1

 



#32 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 11:36 PM

when people referred to the end of the crank, they meant the taper.

No wonder your bolt came loose if the washer split....



#33 BVY

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

I took the flywheel off to find this  :(  :(  :(

 

http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1

 

No coming back from that is there...



#34 A-Cell

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:48 PM

Nope. Very unfortunate. You won't lap that in, but I reckon you know that. Crank scrap. Expect flywheel is too.
Sorry.

#35 Artful Dodger

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:10 PM

Is this a 1275 or 998?

I got a 1275 crank, removed from a GT, polished all faces and balanced, comes with all bearings in good condition just witness marks from being torqued in. PM me if interested!

#36 BVY

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:39 PM

Thanks dodger! But it's a 998 I'm afraid.
How much did it cost having the crank polished and balanced though? I've got a spare but it needs cleaning up...

#37 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 04:43 AM

I took the flywheel off to find this  :(  :(  :(

 

http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1

 

No coming back from that is there...

That's broken.....but.....hold one, you've got nothing to loose by trying....

 

 

There is a forum dedicated to the Austin America (our 1300 series cars) and the guy there is quite a clever boy.

He had a problem with torque converter to crank leakages , and they solved it by shellacing the end of the crank and wrapping 2-3 turns of bog paper around it, and mounting the torque converter up while the shellac was still wet -

If you don't have a plan to replace this engine just now - you could try it, once you've torqued it up, stic a DTI on it and make sure it doesn't run out too much. Who knows? it's a bodge, but may just save you a headache now.






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