So here's a pic of the keyway locator plate when I removed it. The end of the crank looks ok to me...
http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1
Posted 27 May 2013 - 10:57 PM
So here's a pic of the keyway locator plate when I removed it. The end of the crank looks ok to me...
http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1
Posted 27 May 2013 - 11:36 PM
when people referred to the end of the crank, they meant the taper.
No wonder your bolt came loose if the washer split....
Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:43 PM
I took the flywheel off to find this
![]()
http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1
No coming back from that is there...
Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:48 PM
Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:10 PM
Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:39 PM
Posted 29 May 2013 - 04:43 AM
I took the flywheel off to find this
![]()
![]()
http://s1275.photobu...k?sort=3&page=1
No coming back from that is there...
That's broken.....but.....hold one, you've got nothing to loose by trying....
There is a forum dedicated to the Austin America (our 1300 series cars) and the guy there is quite a clever boy.
He had a problem with torque converter to crank leakages , and they solved it by shellacing the end of the crank and wrapping 2-3 turns of bog paper around it, and mounting the torque converter up while the shellac was still wet -
If you don't have a plan to replace this engine just now - you could try it, once you've torqued it up, stic a DTI on it and make sure it doesn't run out too much. Who knows? it's a bodge, but may just save you a headache now.
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