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Is There Any Way To Reverse The Deseaming Process?


Best Answer tiger99 , 07 June 2013 - 12:27 PM

That is actually a very good way of doing it, if you have an old shell with a good seam. If not, you could make one from two thicknesses of 0.9mm sheet, shaped like the original. The curve could be accomodated by making it in short lenghts and welding them together. Go to the full post


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#1 HarrysMini

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 04:36 PM

Hi all,

I am looking at a shell that has been partially deseamed. I personally dislike the look as it makes it look like it is made of plastic.

Is there any way to de-deseam a Mini? i.e. putting the seams back on? Or would it just be easier to deseam the other side and leave it at that? I'm sure I could live with it.

Many thanks for your help and I hope there is a way as this shell is a bargain.

 

If there is already a thread about reversing the seseaming process, could someone please link it? Thanks :)


Edited by HarrysMini, 01 June 2013 - 04:37 PM.


#2 Tamworthbay

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 04:39 PM

Look long and hard at it. Deseaming is VERY hard to do well and is very often bodged, if only half has been done then the chances are that it is a DIY job and more likely to be bodged. The price of panels would far outweigh any savings on the shell. Personally I would walk away, that is after a very bad experience with a project at work on a deseamed shell.

#3 sledgehammer

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 04:56 PM

If it were me & it looked like a solid shell

 

I would find the line of the original seam

 

grind 4 or 5 areas 2 inch or so in that line till I find steel

 

weld tags that are the same dimension and position as the seam fill in

 

fit the trim cover on the tags

 

seal the rest of the seam with a paintable sealant - job done

 

On the mini I am de-seaming at the moment - there were only 4 clips holding the trim on anyway

 

When I de-seam , I plannish the seam over till it's inline with the panel , then weld the open edge - I don't grind the seam off

 

so the original spot weld is still there - with a weld to close the outer edge - (can't do it on blind panels (roof etc ))



#4 HarrysMini

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 05:05 PM

Thanks. That's the thing, the shell is very solid and in very nice condition for the price. it looks like I'll be following what you said, sledgehammer.



#5 sledgehammer

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 05:36 PM

it looks like I'll be following what you said, sledgehammer.

 

Glad you under stood - sometimes I have problems discribing what I mean on paper / the net

 

I think to make an entire seam , would be a lot of work & distortion

 

hope it works out ;D



#6 HarrysMini

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 06:45 PM

The only problem is, it hasn't been properly deseamed. It looks like that the seam has just been cut off and a gap has been left. 

This is why I want to reverse the process, to avoid completely writing off the shell as I know it is very hard. 

Could I just weld in a piece of metal that follows the seam to join the two panels together? Or is that being extremely stupid?


Edited by HarrysMini, 01 June 2013 - 06:45 PM.


#7 rally515

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 06:52 PM

Could you not get a scrap shell, cut the seams out leaving 3-4 inch of panel either side and weld in ? (may need bracing ?)



#8 HarrysMini

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 06:58 PM

Could you not get a scrap shell, cut the seams out leaving 3-4 inch of panel either side and weld in ? (may need bracing ?)

You know what, that is a brilliant idea!

If I found an accident damaged or otherwise scrapped shell I could just cut out the seam (I only need the near side rear seam) and cut out the same amount from my shell so that the new seam fits in flush. Weld it in, grind it and fill any imperfections and it'll look as good as new!

Thanks for the idea!



#9 rally515

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 07:02 PM

 

Could you not get a scrap shell, cut the seams out leaving 3-4 inch of panel either side and weld in ? (may need bracing ?)

You know what, that is a brilliant idea!

If I found an accident damaged or otherwise scrapped shell I could just cut out the seam (I only need the near side rear seam) and cut out the same amount from my shell so that the new seam fits in flush. Weld it in, grind it and fill any imperfections and it'll look as good as new!

Thanks for the idea!

 

 

 

No worries, please brace it though ;)



#10 HarrysMini

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 07:03 PM

 

 

Could you not get a scrap shell, cut the seams out leaving 3-4 inch of panel either side and weld in ? (may need bracing ?)

You know what, that is a brilliant idea!

If I found an accident damaged or otherwise scrapped shell I could just cut out the seam (I only need the near side rear seam) and cut out the same amount from my shell so that the new seam fits in flush. Weld it in, grind it and fill any imperfections and it'll look as good as new!

Thanks for the idea!

 

 

 

No worries, please brace it though ;)

 

Don't worry, I will. :)



#11 sledgehammer

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 07:51 PM

Could you not get a scrap shell, cut the seams out leaving 3-4 inch of panel either side and weld in ? (may need bracing ?)

if the join has a gap - this is the best way ^^^^

 

didn't realise they botched it

 

move the panels till they are in the right position , then tack the brace in position

 

& slowly stitch the repair panel in

 

take your time & allow it to cool



#12 mrbridger

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 12:45 PM

I remember the cautionary tale sent in to mini mag by some lad who deseamed his mini by grinding off the seams. He went on to 'weld' the panels together with chemical metal! Imagine his surprise when, after a nice expensive respray, he set off on a test drive...and after dropping slowly off the kerb onto the Tarmac, the mini split apart like a chocolate orange!

#13 skoughi

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 01:21 PM

My clubby had been deseamed when I bought it and when I ground off the ton of filler it revealed the odd poor weld tacked on here and there, not at all safe never mind strong. It was all cut out and replaced with strips of new metal butt welded in from the inside so that I could leave as much of the bead as possible. I'm just finished shaping the area and filing the metal and skimming with filler, a ton of work. If she'd had seams when I bought her thats the way she would've stayed!

#14 HarrysMini

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 03:07 PM

This is a picture of the shell I'm planning to buy

SS104037_zps6a76b8cc.jpg

(Hope down&out doesn't mind me borrowing his picture)

 

As you can see, the deseaming process has been started, but not finished. What do you guys reckon?


Edited by HarrysMini, 02 June 2013 - 03:48 PM.


#15 tiger99

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 03:44 PM

You could replace the two panels, if that is all that is wrong with the shell. The rear seams provide essential stiffening, and should never be removed, unless you are fitting an equivalent stiffner on the inside, which is a possibility. Imagine the normal seam except that it is folded in instead of out, and you will get the idea.

 

You could make an internal stiffner from a strip of 1.8mm (if available)  or 2mm steel (equivalent to two thicknesses of 0.9mm), the same width as the standard seam, and position it inside, and seam weld both panels to it in one operation.






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