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Is There Any Way To Reverse The Deseaming Process?


Best Answer tiger99 , 07 June 2013 - 12:27 PM

That is actually a very good way of doing it, if you have an old shell with a good seam. If not, you could make one from two thicknesses of 0.9mm sheet, shaped like the original. The curve could be accomodated by making it in short lenghts and welding them together. Go to the full post


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#16 tiger99

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 03:44 PM

Sorry, please ignore double post.


Edited by tiger99, 02 June 2013 - 03:45 PM.


#17 ANON

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 03:51 PM

run a thick strip of metal down it and braze it in place. would be easy to match it to the profile of the body.

 

i'd be wary of the shell just in case the present owner has botched any other bits on it.


Edited by ANON, 02 June 2013 - 03:51 PM.


#18 HarrysMini

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 03:56 PM

run a thick strip of metal down it and braze it in place. would be easy to match it to the profile of the body.

 

i'd be wary of the shell just in case the present owner has botched any other bits on it.

Apparently, the previous owner has done some welding on it that will need to be redone as it's not great. 



#19 Bungle

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 05:19 PM

I remember the cautionary tale sent in to mini mag by some lad who deseamed his mini by grinding off the seams. He went on to 'weld' the panels together with chemical metal! Imagine his surprise when, after a nice expensive respray, he set off on a test drive...and after dropping slowly off the kerb onto the Tarmac, the mini split apart like a chocolate orange!

 

i remember that story

 

chemical metel replace metal with metal



#20 HarrysMini

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 07:43 PM

I have an idea and you guys aren't going to like it. I've decided I might just properly deseam it as it would probably end up with a more slid car than with a piece of metal acting as a seam. 

If I just make an interior seam for the n/s and the same of the o/s would that be strong enough? Could I then just grind off the o/s seam and fill in any imperfections on both sides?

I would have preferred to have external seams but I think the damage is too far gone and any attempt to rebuild an external seam would just weaken it.

I'm not even going to touch the front, I will leave those seams where they are. 

One more question guys, do you think that this gap that's been in the shell for God knows how long could have misaligned the body? I think it might be worth getting it tested once I have got it together.

 

Thanks for all the help.



#21 ANON

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 11:35 PM

it will be fine if you braze a seam in, you'll be able to do most of it from both sides as well, although you won't need that much brass on the outside.


Edited by ANON, 02 June 2013 - 11:36 PM.


#22 Bungle

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 06:49 AM

I have an idea and you guys aren't going to like it. I've decided I might just properly deseam it as it would probably end up with a more slid car than with a piece of metal acting as a seam. 

If I just make an interior seam for the n/s and the same of the o/s would that be strong enough? Could I then just grind off the o/s seam and fill in any imperfections on both sides?

I would have preferred to have external seams but I think the damage is too far gone and any attempt to rebuild an external seam would just weaken it.

I'm not even going to touch the front, I will leave those seams where they are. 

One more question guys, do you think that this gap that's been in the shell for God knows how long could have misaligned the body? I think it might be worth getting it tested once I have got it together.

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

 

what you have now built is a home make kit car

 

to get this back on the road you will have to register the car again and pass a IVA test like other people that build cars at home

 

this car is no longer a mini but on the bright side you can call it what you want on the log book



#23 HarrysMini

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 07:02 AM

Does that mean I'd need to put it on Q plates? Maybe I'll just stick with making an external seam out of an old car

#24 Bungle

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:22 PM

yes



#25 tiger99

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:31 PM

Brazing is illegal and a certain MOT failure if spotted. Now that is rather unfortunate, as done correctly it can be perfectly safe, but there is no point in risking trouble when MIG welding is a quicker and cheaper process anyway. Also, applying a flat strip to the back of where the joint should be does not restore much of the lost stiffness, the stiffner has to stand up like a flange to be useful.

#26 HarrysMini

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:49 PM

I've decided I'll just do what I previously said. Cut off an old seam and weld it to the two panels. I think this will make the strongest join.

Thanks for the help guys



#27 tiger99

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 12:27 PM   Best Answer

That is actually a very good way of doing it, if you have an old shell with a good seam. If not, you could make one from two thicknesses of 0.9mm sheet, shaped like the original. The curve could be accomodated by making it in short lenghts and welding them together.

#28 CLM

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 12:45 PM

One option you might consider that I didn't see mentioned earlier.. granted I just skimmed it. Get some donor panels cut from another shell and weld them in as repair panels... Something along the blue lines here.

 

seamreplace_zpsb34f883c.jpg

 

If you brace the shell before trimming it shouldn't be any worse then replacing any other panel section, and as you are repairing it to standard it shouldn't require any of the identity checks your mot requires. After all it's just a repair at that point.

 

You should be able to minimize warpage by welding somewhat close to the seam, it would act as a sort of reinforcement.

 

Chris

 

-edit- Oh there is the suggestion.. I really should get some sleep :)


Edited by CLM, 07 June 2013 - 12:47 PM.


#29 JustSteve

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 01:03 PM

Brazing is illegal and a certain MOT failure if spotted. Now that is rather unfortunate, as done correctly it can be perfectly safe, but there is no point in risking trouble when MIG welding is a quicker and cheaper process anyway. Also, applying a flat strip to the back of where the joint should be does not restore much of the lost stiffness, the stiffner has to stand up like a flange to be useful.

 

I usually agree with most things you say, however, i dont believe this to be correct unless it's a very recent change.  It was legal three years ago when i enquired about it... and it's my understanding that rolls-royce still braze their cars like they always have done. 



#30 Dan

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 10:06 PM

  Brazing with a welder is allowed (only if it is the manufacturers approved method I believe) but brazing with a flame is an automatic failure as it is not acceptable for structural repairs.  That's been in the MOT for ages.






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