126 replies to this topic

[The Freak]

Are the kits easy to fit to existing dizzy's?  Could I take the trigger mechanism out of the new one I have and fit it to my old dizzy?  or would it be worth getting a new kit?  How difficult is it to fit the tirgger onto the dizzy shaft in the correct position?

 

The problem here is that I might end up without any functioning dizzy.  At the moment I am using my mini as a daily driver (hence part of the reason I wanted to reduce the need to replace points every so many miles.  I don't want to leave myself high and dry.

 

That sounds like an excellent idea though.  Something I hadn't even thought about. 

[lrostoke]

I can't remember how our dizzy was we got off Simon, I seem to recall it didn't have the standard lobes that operate points, just a square section which triggered the sensor.

 

And the kits are very easy fit...You can get them for around £18 I think, prices keep changing

 

http://www.paddocksp...tronic-kit.html

Edited by lrostoke, 24 June 2013 - 04:09 PM.

[KernowCooper]

I did a step by step install of the powersparks electronic unit into a standard distributor here http://www.theminifo...t-step-by-step/

[The Freak]

cheers,

 

I had a look at the one I bought to see how easy it would be to remove the trigger wheel  it has a drift pin wedged in holding it tight.  I don't think it would be easy to get it off without damaging it.

 

I tried to call Simon when I got home from work.  no answer.  I will try tomorrow and let you know what he said.  I had a look at the advance mechanism on the new dizzy, it seems like it is connected as when I 'suck' the vac tube the plate moves.

[KernowCooper]

Does it work smoothly though on the advance mechanism ? only way to check is to strip it down which maybe not a good idea if your sending it back.

[The Freak]

I won't strip it down as it looks hard to get the trigger wheel off.  I couldn't tell if the mechanism was smooth, it felt good, but never having compared vac advances by sucking them before I have nothing to compare it against.  I am not putting my lips round my old dizzy as it is filthy.  Sounds like my wife!!!!   Everything I know and everything I am reading is pointing towards a failed advance mechanism.  It can't really be anything else, can it?  Which suggests that when I sent my dizzy back and simon changed something on it he has blagged me and sent the same one back out again.  As it has happened to someone else here perhaps it was a bad batch of mechanisms.

 

When I get in touch with him I will send it back. and ask for another unit or money back.  Other than powerpsark are there any other suppliers of complete dizzies?

 

I think you have been right all along.  It has to be the vac advance being faulty.  When I think back to checking the timing.  with the vac advance connected it jumped to about 20-22 degrees btdc and stayed there throught the engine range.  I didn't think anything aboiut this as it had moved up from 5 degrees but that must have coincided with me revving the engine.  Maybe I am just making excuses.  I can't think of anything else to suggest.

[KernowCooper]

The vacuum advance unit just pulls the baseplate around I suspect your peoblem is in the mechanical advance unit below. Why dont you ask symon to send you a kit to put in yours.

[The Freak]

Morning all,

 

Just got of the phone to powerspark.  They say they changed the springs in the dizzy.  They then suggested it was still a ballast wire problem.  I said I had bypassed the original wire, fitting a single feed from the top left connection on the fuse box.  The guy then said I needed to go further back and strip my ignition switch as the feed to the top left of the fuse box was obviously ballasted.  He then said he would send me out a new module. 

When I said that the engine spins freely when dizzy turned A/CW but won't spin when turned C/W and asked how the ballast wire would allow this he wasn't sure.  However, I asked if they would fit the kit (I will gladly pay).  I have been invited in on Sat morning.  So I will let you know how that goes.

[lrostoke]

He's talking ballcocks about the ballast wire, the fuses are all 12v

 

If you take a feed off the white wire thats unfused 12v ignition switched. The only bit that is ballasted(resistive) is the white/pink wire, its the wire that provides the voltage drop. 

[KernowCooper]

Did you ask to speak to Simon he said he was sending out a new unit, but if your having one fitted Saturday then we await the result, and yes thats a load of poppy ******* about the ballast wire, if you have 12v on on the coil + its not the issue.

[The Freak]

That's what I tried to tell him.  But he told me it must be ballasted back towards the switch. This would mean everything powered from the ignition switch is then ballasted.  Maybe that's why my wipers are so slow and sh*t (or that could be that they are just slow and sh*t) I don't think it is.  Even if that was the case, it wouldn't expalain why the engine does spin when the dizzy is in one place but doesn't spin when in another place.

 

He said he would send out a new module.  I then aksed if they could fit it.  They said they don't usually fit euqipment but they would make an exception. 

 

At least this way I can show them exactly what is happening.  I can fit it in front of them.  (if I am fitting it incorrectly)  then thats not a problem, I am man enough to say oops and say thanks when they do it right.  However, the fact I can put my old dizzy back in and time it by sound (when checked using the gun) and its perfect suggests I know what I am doing.

 

I have never encountered this type of problem before.  Until I read the other post at the start of this thread no one else had said this was an issue.  Does this point to a bad batch of some components, maybe the module, maybe the advance mechanism?  Weirdly, if the engine did fire, it ran better than it ever has.

 

I will let you know how it goes on sat. 

[The Freak]

I wish I hadn't bothered with anything.

 

The whole idea was to reduce the effort and cost extolled on replacing points and setting timing etc every 6 months or so..  However, I have had the dizzy in and out more times than I have ever changed points in the last couple of weeks thus negating any savings.

 

I would like to pursue with the change but only if I know what was causing the problem in the first place.  If it was a broken part and I could see that, I could replace it, or at least understand why it wasn't opperating properly.  This is just ridiculous.

 

I will at least have an answer on sat.  My fault or their faulty kit (or, maybe the car doesn't want this kind of ignition...)

 

If it doesn' t work on sat I may look into getting the kit suggested.

[lrostoke]

follow the link I posted earlier if you decide get the Britpart kit, slightly cheaper from Paddocks...same kit

 

We did exactly what DILLIGAF suggest brought a couple but they did use to be £6.75 :)

[The Freak]

Thought I would give it one more go before going to simonbbc on sat.

 

Straight home from work, engine at temp.  tuned it to within an inch of perfection.  I adjusted the mixture and idle speeds whilst honing the timing until it ran perfectly.  Took it for a drive.  No misfires, no backfires, no hunting...perfect.  Checked the advance came in about 28-30 at 2000 rpm.  Sweet

 

Took the old dizzy out and fitted the new one...  static timed it having noted the exact position of old unit and rotor arm.  Turned the key...Dur-uh, dur-uh, flat as a pancake.  Won't turn.  Twisted dizzy, began spinning wouldn't fire.  Gave up put the old dizzy back on and put the new stuff in the box ready for sat.  Rubbish.

 

I will let you know how it goes on sat. 

[KernowCooper]

something odd with that distributor ! be interesting to hear what happens mate