41 replies to this topic

[firstforward]

On the front hub with disk brakes, when tightening the castle nut, first with the spacer/washer then with the conical washer I cannot get the castle nut split pin to align. The manual says tighten to the next castle nut slot, but at 200lbf torque how much more can it be tightened without my arm snapping. I tried a new conical washer, but that just made it worse, what do you guys do in this situation? File some off the castle nut?

[jaydee]

How far is the slot?

To fully tighten with holes aligned it can be somthing like 360 lbsft so eat your weetabix

[firstforward]

Its just past so looks like I will have to buy some weetabix and a breaker bar, so just tighten till it gets there?

[waddle]

get a bigger bar !

[Pigeonto]

Use a washer mate(not a shim!, something at least 1mm thick) if you need to go nearly one whole slot further but are already at the correct torque. Keep trying different thickness washers until the recommended torque or a touch more puts a slot in line with the hole. You really don't want to be exceeding the torque figure given by a huge amount extra.

Edited by Pigeonto, 20 July 2013 - 04:36 PM.

[A-Cell]

No washer required, also not recommended. The whole point is to Pre load the bearings. Do up nut to torque setting then on to next split pin hole.

[mini13]

Hmmmm,

 

I dont like to preload the bearings too much, what I have done in the past is try a few different nuts, failing that to rub the nut and cone washer on some wet and dry on a flat surface, or if its really bad take a bit off in a lathe.

[Pigeonto]

Hmmmm,
 
I dont like to preload the bearings too much, what I have done in the past is try a few different nuts, failing that to rub the nut and cone washer on some wet and dry on a flat surface, or if its really bad take a bit off in a lathe.

**** Likewise. Funnily enough I have just this minute completed that very job on one and ended up with a different nut to the original and also a washer, perfect! the torque wrench cracked off just as the split pin hole lined up. A washer is entirely acceptable and if you can use one made of good steel it's a better job. The bearings are pre-loaded at the torque recommended in the manual, washer or none!

[A-Cell]

The Pre load is calculated from the torque plus align to next hole. That was and is the design intent. To ensure that the inner races are clamped securely. You cannot 'overload' the assembly, but you can easily not clamp it tight enough resulting in wobble.
Read the manual...
Fit the collar and driveshaft retaining nut, and once again tighten it to the specified torque. Tighten the nut further to align the split pin holes in the driveshaft and nut, then secure the nut with a new split pin.

[mini13]

You sir are talking rubish, I have seen the castle nuts crack through overtightening.

[A-Cell]

Rubish? Not a language I am familiar with!

[jenbachertech]

If the manufacturer recommends a torque setting plus the next hole, then that is the specified torque setting. There is no argument for that.

 

Adding washers, or grinding the nuts down is by all accounts a bodge.

 

Having done probably hundereds of front bearings on vehicles of this type - Mini, Allegro, Austin 1100 and so on, this it the standard - it should be adhered to.

 

Listen to what the manufacturer wants, it's in writing, and correct, as per the works service manual - anything other than that could be dangerous.

[A-Cell]

+1. Over and out on this topic.

[tiger99]

Remember that there should be two split pin holes in the CV shaft, at 90 degrees, and 6 slots in the castle nut, at 60 degrees, so you don't ever need to go more than 30 degrees after reaching the minimum acceptable torque, so it should not be impossible. I have heard that some older CVs had only one split pin hole, which would make it very difficult, needing up to 60 degrees after reaching the torque.

Edited by tiger99, 22 July 2013 - 12:56 AM.

[firstforward]

Remember that there should be two split pin holes in the CV shaft, at 90 degrees, and 6 slots in the castle nut, at 60 degrees, so you don't ever need to go more than 30 degrees after reaching the minimum acceptable torque, so it should not be impossible. I have heard that some older CVs had only one split pin hole, which would make it very difficult, needing up to 60 degrees after reaching the torque.

Tiger, it's the other way around, the older had 2 split pin holes and newer just 1, mine is a 96 SPi with just 1. I have only just gone past the hole so I have a long way to go. I will crank it round to next slot but first I shall try a new castle nut or 2. Jaydee says 360lbf is not unheard of but it feels it when you actually having to tighten it that tight.