41 replies to this topic

[madaboutcherry]

i,m in the middle of doing a wheel bearing, and it won't tighten up any more than 140lb/ft. it's a minispares non genuine bearing.

should I prise open my wallet and buy a Timken part?

[firstforward]

So its a drum brake you have because that torque is too low for a disk brake setup.

[madaboutcherry]

they're discs on the front.

[firstforward]

Actually without looking that up I might have that slightly wrong I was confused with the conical washer, however, the manual basically says where there are two split pin bores in the CV joint the hub nut must be torqued to 150 lbtft / 207 Nm, then tightened further to align the hole. Where there is only one split pin bore the hub nut must be torqued to 193 lbft / 262 Nm, then tightened further to align the hole.

[madaboutcherry]

but mine won't  go above 140 no matter how hard I tighten it, i'm almost lifting the front of car off the ground!

is the bearing spacer too wide?

[lrostoke]

maybe the cone washer is biting into the shaft before you get full torque ???

[jime17]

but mine won't  go above 140 no matter how hard I tighten it, i'm almost lifting the front of car off the ground!
is the bearing spacer too wide?

Try it on the downward arc. That will keep the wheel in contact with the ground.

[M J W J]

I've always just tightened the nut to the next hole. I have never had to tighten them that much. Not possible on the rear as the threads are handed but on the front if you are having the same problem on both sides then try swapping the nuts from side to side.

 

I've always torqued the nut up to seat the bearing properly, undone it and then retightened it back up to the correct torque setting. This has always got mine to the point I can get the split pin or almost get it in.

 

Make sure that you threads are clean and apply a small amount of grease to them. If the threads are dirty then it will be giving you an incorrect torque setting and may explain why you can't get the nut in the correct place.

[adampat84]

to be honest, i have never really thought about it i just go to the recommended torque then to the next hold by common sense.. I've never had to budge it that far but then i may just be lucky!

Edited by adampat84, 25 July 2013 - 01:19 PM.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Perhaps I should have said diana rust as we are in a mini forum.

My apologies. Please continue your rant. I find them both educational and entertaining.

 

I'll have to temper my enthusiasm a little - i'm fairly sure my card is marked for excess ranting by some members and i'm just a warning point or two away from total oblivion.

[firstforward]

Well I shaved a very small amount off the castle nut and took it to the next slot, it took 273.9 lb/ft torque to achieve that, so all sorted now.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Well I shaved a very small amount off the castle nut and took it to the next slot, it took 273.9 lb/ft torque to achieve that, so all sorted now.

As soon as I got above 175 lbsft in search of the next split pin hole I think I would have taken that castle nut off and shaved a bit more off it.

 

 

At 100 lbsft tightening torque the following approx values may be noted in a fastener:-

 

10 lbsft is actually available to stretch the bolt for clamping

35 lbsft of torque is wasted in thread friction

55 lbsft of torque is wasted as friction at the nut face

Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 01 August 2013 - 12:11 AM.