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Wheel Bearings To Avoid.


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#61 robminibcy

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 08:26 PM

Whilst I think it disgusting that companies are selling poor quality product and worse still in some cases selling them as genuine or origional spec, I think the main issue is down to the market always trying to buy cheapest. I look at the price differance and immidiatley alarm bells start to ring. How can a supposedly identical product be so much cheaper than the genuine part? If the part could really be made to the same spec and quality at that price how are Timken still in business?

#62 FlyingScot

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 09:09 PM

I agree with this but the price asked is huge for genuine Timken bearings. I have bought (industrial) bearings to a higher spec of similar size for much less,so seems a little odd.

FS

#63 Deejayry

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 05:42 PM

The swiftune spacers mentioned in one of the previous posts are worth using if you use your car for competition, i helped out for a team competing in a 24hr race and we had to use those spacers as the original ones supplied with Timken bearings were too soft and quickly deformed.

I believe they are used by many racers without issues.



#64 miniBrain

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 06:03 PM

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but thought it relevant to report my experience with this bearing. This is what I found after about 7,000 miles:

 

IMGP9870.jpg

 

As you can see, the bearing cage has disintegrated and the rollers were floating around. They were badly scored along with the spacer. The bearing is marked FHRC KOR as stated earlier in this thread.

 

IMGP9872.jpg

 

So, just to add my tuppence worth - AVOID



#65 surfblue

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 12:27 PM

Where can I get decent GHK1018 drum front brake bearings at?



#66 Spider

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 06:27 PM

Where can I get decent GHK1018 drum front brake bearings at?

 

Although most of the drum brake cars were factory fitted with ball type Bearings, you can fit the Timken Tapers to them - dimensionally they are the same bearing as the Disc Brake types. Our local factory here finally got it through their thick skulls that Ball Bearings don't work in Big Wheel Mokes and so just before they stopped making them, they went over to Tapers in all models, including drum brake types. I've also noticed in more recent years that the Tapers are also cheaper than the balls.



#67 robminibcy

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 10:01 PM

I've used timken tapers in my front drums without a problem.



#68 gazza82

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 12:49 PM

You could try http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/

 

If you know the dimensions, they can match them for you .. they might even be able to get Timken's



#69 1984mini25

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 04:26 PM

I've used timken tapers in my front drums without a problem.

 

The main reason why they switched from ball to taper roller bearings, is the taper rollers can deal with more side loadings with the larger surface areas of the individual rollers.



#70 CdnAustinAmerica

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 05:53 PM

I had my front wheel bearings replaced last spring and on the left side their was a problem with the bearing immediately and they replaced it as soon as they could, then not long after it failed as well and was replacedand then again and again. They then in October replaced it with the cooper roller bearing type (I believe from timken) and now it has failed again (noisy but not yet loose). What options do I have to solve this problem? Both my mechanic and I are losing our patience..

The car in question is a '76 1000

#71 Spider

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

I had my front wheel bearings replaced last spring and on the left side their was a problem with the bearing immediately and they replaced it as soon as they could, then not long after it failed as well and was replacedand then again and again. They then in October replaced it with the cooper roller bearing type (I believe from timken) and now it has failed again (noisy but not yet loose). What options do I have to solve this problem? Both my mechanic and I are losing our patience..

The car in question is a '76 1000

 

Is it the bearing at the root cause here?

 

The Hub itself and the Drive Flange (in the case of Drums) need to be in very good condition. I'm guessing that the hub is also worn, but all components need checking.



#72 CdnAustinAmerica

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 04:22 PM

I was thinking that was the case, but when they did the last one they said that they checked to see if anything was at fault, seeing as they had gone through three of the cheaper bearings.

#73 Scousemouse

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 05:33 PM

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but thought it relevant to report my experience with this bearing. This is what I found after about 7,000 miles:

 

IMGP9870.jpg

 

As you can see, the bearing cage has disintegrated and the rollers were floating around. They were badly scored along with the spacer. The bearing is marked FHRC KOR as stated earlier in this thread.

 

IMGP9872.jpg

 

So, just to add my tuppence worth - AVOID

7000 miles, that's pretty good for £11 (did you install with the flat washer?)



#74 Garryg

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 11:46 PM

Jumping back a bit on an old thread.

 

Can anyone give me the Timken part # for both the front and rear bearing kits required for a '79 Mini Clubby?

 

Cheers


Edited by Garryg, 08 September 2016 - 11:47 PM.


#75 Spider

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 12:55 AM

The Timken Kit No for the Front is CKP2786, that includes Bearings, matched Spacer and Seals.  The Rear Kit is CKP2787.

 

If your just after Bearing Nos., the Front Assembly is LM67049A Assy 91033.  Rear is 0787X Assy 49644.






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