33 replies to this topic

['Chop']

Here's mine...

 

It's all steel with triangular tabs that line up with tabs I've welded onto the engine bay near where the hinges originally were.

 

The A-panels have 2 additional mounts on each sides where the door hinges are mounted. Front mounts are through the original front subframe mounts. It takes about a minute to unbolt the 8 bolts and disconnect the front lighting and dizzy wiring loom,

 

Attached Files

•  Picture 069.jpg   161.62K   50 downloads
•  Picture 118.jpg   164.3K   32 downloads
•  Picture 120.jpg   162.69K   32 downloads

['Chop']

Sort of a close up of the curved A-panels/ hinge mounts. The bolts thread into 'rivnuts' on these mounts.

 

 Picture 045.jpg   161.4K   41 downloads

[Ethel]

When this topic first came up, with some input from ACE, they got a little bit of feedback from the DVLA. It's technically a separate issue to VOSA's IVA, you'll only need the IVA if your Mini loses its identity under the DVLA "points system". The DVLA's criteria refers to a chassis. For a Mini that translates to the part of the monocoque "that the manufacturer" deems to be equivalent, i.e. structural.

 

With the strict caveat that every car will be assessed on a case by case basis, the DVLA rep did suggest that the inner wings would be considered structural, whereas the "outer" wings wouldn't. My personal take was he was talking in general terms and wasn't familiar with Minis; his comment would make sense for something with bolt on wings, and substantial inner wing structure, like a Metro, it's clearly nonsense if applied to Minis.

 

So that's the situation, the only de facto answer is "suck it and see".

 

Unless Rover issue an edict from beyond the grave, there were certainly plenty of flip fronted Minis knocking about (in competition & on the road) while Rover/Austin Rover/British Leyland were still on the go, so you could try and argue they had at least a tacit endorsement from the manufacturer, not that the DVLA (or VOSA) are obliged to share your opinion.

[tiger99]

Actually, as far back as when they were BMC, they did issue edicts warning against fitting flip fronts.

[Yoda]

Proof, we want proof!

 

If i cant see it hear it or smell it, i don't believe it is real.

['Chop']

 

Proof, we want proof!
 
If i cant see it hear it or smell it, i don't believe it is real.

 I don't want proof, I've done mine already.....and I DON'T CARE!! There's loads out there and I'd be VERY unlucky if I was to get my wrist slapped whilst everyone else doesn't......

and there's no way I'm putting it back to standard again!

Hell, that's the least of 'Chop's' worries

Edited by 'Chop', 03 October 2013 - 12:31 PM.

[Yoda]

SHHHHH, dont shout, the flip front roof chop police might hear you.

['Chop']

 

SHHHHH, dont shout, the flip front roof chop police might hear you.

 I only just whispered it (honest) You must just have REALLY GOOD hearing Yoda :-D

[Yoda]

the force is with me Chop.

[Gilly112]

I'm feeling the flipfront idea more and more, not sure if I'm going steel or fiberglass yet, I'll have a good poke about! Thanks for all your input!

['Chop']

 

I'm feeling the flipfront idea more and more, not sure if I'm going steel or fiberglass yet, I'll have a good poke about! Thanks for all your input!

Don't just think about it.....

DO IT!

[Minidarren83]

 

I'm feeling the flipfront idea more and more, not sure if I'm going steel or fiberglass yet, I'll have a good poke about! Thanks for all your input!

Don't just think about it.....

DO IT!

Don't let people out you off mate do what you want to your own car

[andyt]

I asked for some advice on how to fit my fibreglass front last weekend and all I got was "IVA this and VOSA that".

 

All I want is some tips on how to fit the thing ie fastening, electrics and so on.

 

Andy.

['Chop']

I asked for some advice on how to fit my fibreglass front last weekend and all I got was "IVA this and VOSA that".

 

All I want is some tips on how to fit the thing ie fastening, electrics and so on.

 

Andy.

Hi Andy,

 

I'm not too sure whether this is the recognised way of doing it now (I've been out of the mini scene for around 7 years) but the way I've always done it is as follows....

 

Remove wings at the A-panel by cutting down through the wing about an inch FORWARD of the A-panel to wing joint.

Chisel or grind the tops of the wings where they're spotwelded to the inner wing/ bonnet slam panel and slice through the front panel below the headlight.

 

Undo the front subframe mounts (on the front panel) and put a jack under the sump (piece of stout wood between engine and jack) and JUST take the weight of the engine.

 

Slice the inner panel (inner wings) down from top to bottom about an inch forward of the top subframe mounts and remove the entire remaining front end.

 

Needless to say you will have removed all the various electrics beforehand (lighting/ indicating loom and horn)

 

Drill and bolt up the diagonal brace bars (I believe you can still buy these) The reason for the jack is to make absolutely sure nothing moves when the front was removed. I always plate the top section of the inner wing where the brace bars bolts to make it really strong. You'll need to drill 1 extra hole on the front of the subframe for an additional M10 bolt. Bolt up the brace bars.

 

The front is now structurally strong enough to take the jack away.

 

Mounting wise, most people seem to bolt or use Dzus fastners on the wing tabs (the bits you saved fro

['Chop']

Having to do this in several bits 'because the computer keeps crashing......

 

Where was I?

 

(the bits you saved from removing the wings) You'll need two fastners per side.

 

Fit the front either through direct mounts from the lower front subframe mounts or on hinges (try Arc Angels for these)

 

The bonnet is mounted on the original hinges and secured at the bottom with leather straps of similar.....or you can mount using bonnet pins. If you do this its better to mount the top pns on little triangular plates welded on the inside corners of the inner wings and scuttle....

 

HOWEVER, I prefer to remove the A-panels and make mounts attached to the hinge mounting bolts,and weld additional 'triangles on the inside of the tops of the wings (where the bonnet will mount) IT'S LOADS EASIER TO EXPLAIN IF YOU LOOK ON THE LINK IN MY SIGNATURE BANNER AND LOOK AT 'CHOP'S' BUILD THREAD. The lower front end bolts through the subrame-body mounts. My bonnet attachs through the same holes at the top and others on the bottom through 'matching' triangles of steel. I use rivnuts and bolt directly into them.

 

Wiring wise, cut into the headlight and indicator looms and fit a multi terminalled quick release plug that thay use for boats etc (make sure it's a good quality WATERPROOF one) clip or ziptie the upper bit of the loom to the brace bar.

 

And that's about it. Hope this is useful as it's the THIRD time I've written this out (F**king computers) and it would have been easier to come around and do it for you!!

 

Cheers, Andy

 

...and best of luck if you have a go.