31 replies to this topic

[daenesh]

yeah i see your point there and luckily you that the nut didnt fall off..ill have to go find one and hope that i dont have the same problem as you did.. cheers

[Cooperman]

Try 0.015" as an initial setting. Then, if the pedal picks up too near the top, increase it to around 0.020". Don't forget to correctly set the overthrow nuts after the stop setting has been set correctly.

GraemeC said:

 

Surely the bigger the gap, the lower down the pedal stroke the bite point will be as there will be more pedal movement to take up the slack. The extreme being that if the gap is too big you'll not get the clutch to release.

 

 

Reply is:

 

That's right. If the pedal 'bites' too soon the gap is too small, so increase it a bit until it is biting further down. If the pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch disengages, reduce the gap a bit.

 

Edited by Cooperman, 02 October 2013 - 04:10 PM.

[Kt1966]

Oddly, I've fitted the spring, with no loss of skin, but, the gears are now very hard to engage - need to press the pedal a couple of times and even then it doesn't like it..

 

Take the spring off and all is fine again?

 

Anyone help ?

[tiger99]

First check the adjustment again, carefully. Ensure that the lever is pulled hard back while setting the clearance.

 

If that does not fix it, first bleed the hydraulics. You may need a new or overhauled master or slave cylinder, or a new flexible hose, if it is bulging, but do the low-cost things first.

 

You should get 0.55 inch travel at the lever from pedal up to pedal fully down.

[daenesh]

i find that there is always a bit of play on the arm.. so most people dont realise when setting the gap.. so tiger99 is right.. pull the arm back and the set the gap to the right one.. if that fails then either you have air in the system, or either your master pump or slave pump needs to serviced or changed if the condition is bad.. the pipes can leak as well so i would suggest to check for any oil leaks on the pipes maybe even visible fluid seeping out.. if all of that fails too then i think you might have a bigger problem on your hand :)

[Kt1966]

Well, the l latest news (for those who are still interested!) is that a couple of people who have looked at the car as is, with no spring say its no big deal.
The consensus was that if it's working ok without the spring (which it is), and not when the spring is on then don't worry about it...., lots of them are driven without a spring......
Now, this may people being kind, ignorant or daft but if it's been off a while, putting it causes a problem then is it a big deal...?

[GraemeC]

No spring means the release bearing could be in constant contact with the diaphragm. This may have no immediate detrimental effect, or it might cause the bearing to overheat. Either way, I'm sure the life of the bearing would be shortened.

[tiger99]

GraemeC is correct, the bearing will suffer, because it is not designed to run in that condition. However the Verto clutch, with a very different bearing, is designed to run in constant light contact.

 

A significant part of the problem will be that the clutch release plunger is typically off-centre by a few thou, when you add up all the tolerances in the clutch housing and cover, so the bearing face will be constantly shuffling against the face of the diaphragm spring as it rotates, and as well as bearing problems, there may be excessive wear on the fingers of the diaphragm spring.

 

It is a good idea to not pay too much attention to those well-meaning people who think it is ok to run the car without one of its original parts. Car production is very cost sensitive, and if the spring was not needed it would never have been fitted.

[Kt1966]

Thanks for th e replies and pointers - much appreciated.
Ive come to the opinion that, as Tiger99 says if it could have been omitted from the production process then it would have been.....
I'll get it sorted.
Thanks.

[joyce1bro]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but a question I have is with the spring fitted it is very hard to engage gears especially reverse, the clutch feels shorter and seems like it is not disengaging and is dragging. When the spring is not on I have full travel and can select any gear with no grinding or anything. I have fitted a new slave cylinder and bleed it correctly. Has a new clutch kit which was installed by a very good and well known race mini engine builder here in nz.

Any ideas?

Edited by joyce1bro, 27 January 2015 - 03:55 PM.

[Rorf]

I realize this is an old thread but maybe the experts can give some input - why does this spring have to have such a high and strong tension. Very difficult to install a new spring (MiniSpares) and I am sure it makes the clutch pedal much harder to depress. I know I am getting older and weaker.

 

My Land Rover Tdi has an easier clutch to depress

[GraemeC]

The modern repro springs are far stronger than needed.
I use one of these:
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[Rorf]

GraemeC that spring certainly looks better and has much less tension being a throttle spring - will be on my next order, thanks.

[Spider]

I use a throttle spring here too, but I feel those are just a little too light.

 

I use the standard single carb springs.

 

All it does need do is hold the bearing off the thrust plate.

[GraemeC]

This one Moke?
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Last one of these I bought it didn’t seem much weaker than the clutch one, although I did wonder if I’d been sent the wrong one.