21 replies to this topic

[KernowCooper]

The purple in the loom is the feed up to the switch horn contacts and there is a Purple/black out of the switch that provides 12v down to the horn whan pressed.

 

Depending what sort of horn push your aftermarket button has it may not work with out mods to the wiring.

 

The Mota-Lita/Mountney Boss kits use a button designed to earth the horn out so the horn has a 12v feed which is reverse of what yours is, it would mean providing the horn with a 12v feed and the horn would have to be a 2 terminal type and the earth is then controlled by the aftermarket button.

 

what type of push button does your kit have ? betting its one of the ones described.

[Stimpy]

Hi, sorry for not being able to reply. Do you still want a picture bud? It's no trouble I've nothing to do today anyway until later on

 

No - don't worry - I don't need the pic now as I've bought the whole sher-bang, so to speak,  Unless any readers would like to see a photo of your page? I spect not.  Still ....- ta for the offer - most people in the mini world tend to be the sort that freely offer advice - and I really respect that.

[Stimpy]

The wiper side switch wont fall apart like the indicator side it just whip the screws out and change over

 

Nice one - that'll make me less nervous about the thing.  It really should be plug-n-play but with the mini (literally - plug and socket) - but - no-one will ever ever know 100% for certain though.  "The nature of the beast"!   It's why we luv 'em (ahem_

 

Thanks.

 

So - when I have my new stalk in place and wired up - I will test it and see if I can use my 'indoors' fuse box & connection system,  I'm also bringing power + 2 sides of the dip circuit in to occupy it's own little fusebox near the glove compt.  I have used CBS's product to as full as I can.  It's nice to have individual numbers that relate to something unique each time - and spade terminals are so much nicer.  The finished product (electrics) should be a disparate array of simplle labelled fused connections with channels of cables using self amalgamating tape.  It really is starting to look organised and 'safe' rather than a bunch of spaghetti cables around the place.

 

ta again 

[Stimpy]

The purple in the loom is the feed up to the switch horn contacts and there is a Purple/black out of the switch that provides 12v down to the horn whan pressed.

 

Depending what sort of horn push your aftermarket button has it may not work with out mods to the wiring.

 

The Mota-Lita/Mountney Boss kits use a button designed to earth the horn out so the horn has a 12v feed which is reverse of what yours is, it would mean providing the horn with a 12v feed and the horn would have to be a 2 terminal type and the earth is then controlled by the aftermarket button.

 

what type of push button does your kit have ? betting its one of the ones described.

It's an old Ripspeed s/wheel that is squared off at the bottom (I can tell you - that squared of bit makes it so easy to get in/out quick and 'feels' just right.

From memory - there are two males facing backward from the hub assembly - the wheel part has a push button section and there are 2 sprung screw head that sound the horn when bridged. 

 

HOWEVER - I shall be using the standard horn on my new stalk and give up on any ideas of convincing the push centre method .

The new stalk has all the blue green and blacks which should connect straight to the exposed female. As it were......

[Stimpy]

Regression done - old horn back in place and working - plus lights working.

In - 'tidying' mode now - putting hooks all over the place to hold cabling back and in place - taping up (amalgamating style) loose cabling and gathering cables together - creating plugs and sockets for cable 'groups'.

I'm at the nervous bit where - if I put the carpet back and all the console stuff - will it work like it did when everything was 'offered up' - the paranoia stage.

Plus I've done the usual bad habit - found another idea during the clean up!  I've bought a very small blower with a huge cfm reading which I'm going to put in-line with the driver side screen vent and to a 'power demist' button.  Waiting for the royal mail on that one.

Getting there...

 

By any chance - does anyone the colours of the cables that go to the electric radiator fan?  I suspect it's one of the in-line fuse types.  I want to route it through the new fuse box system.

 

Also - I've set up a warning lamp on the dash to show when the electric fan comes on.

 

I was thinking that the wires to the unit at the bottom of the radiator was a switch - so - I thought one would be (on IGN) always live and then the unit would 'switch' when the temp gets high enough after which the other cables becomes live to complete the switch and fan comes on - but it looks like that is not the case.    

I was going to tap into the 'other' wire (nonlive) to supply the warning bulb when the fan comes on.

So now I'm confused - I'm not sure how the 'stat in the bottom of the rad works.  I'll do a search around but if anyone can sum it up in one sentence I'd be very appreciated!  Ta.

[jmmini]

I can't really help with your question, but I just have my fan on a toggle switch in the dash because it was easier to set up :)

[Stimpy]

I can't really help with your question, but I just have my fan on a toggle switch in the dash because it was easier to set up :)

 

No problem at all!  The fan on my L-reg is a standard fit but I got the idea of having a dash light from my Stag - somehow it raises confidence to see it come on - do its job - then go off again.  Hmm alternatively I 'spose it could be 'No light - happy - light comes on - that's ok - doing it's job... hmm, why's it still on? - surely the light should go off by now - WHY WON'T THE BLOODY LIGHT GO.... oh there it goes.....