23 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

The standard head is very poor and needs to be gas-flowed. I can highly recommend Rob Walker Engineering (check his web site) as a top Mini engine person.

He could gas-flow the head and bore the engine.

[norris2002]

I have just had a look on Rob Walkers website. Seems to know what he is doing (ex Osellis), has prices on the website (useful for late night procrastinating about what to do), and recommended by you. Only problem is that it is about a 2 hour drive from me

 

Thanks for all the help so far!

[Cooperman]

It's a long way for me too, but when I need complex machining, like fitting different main bearing caps and line boring, that's the only place I'll go.

[minilee94]

If they valves are as big as you think you can't fit unleaded valve seats as I would of had mine done when I sent it to bill Richards

Also bill sorted me out a good price for all the work I done and was done spot on he is also very helpful any help I need he helps me out with info

And as for dartford rebore both times I rung them they was very rude and expensive to nearly £250 for a rebore

Edited by minilee94, 01 January 2014 - 11:04 PM.

[norris2002]

Its been a while since I updated, but I have been busy with work, building a garage (still needs a roof and windows) and starting a band, but today I got a couple of hours on the block, and was amazed at how easily it all comes apart!

 

First off came the flywheel:

 

Then the timing cover:

 

Then I put the flywheel back on, as I realised I needed this to lock up the crank and take off the timing gears. Then I took the flywheel back off again.

 

You may notice some oil under the engine and an ice cream pot full of old oil. That was hastily grabbed as I took off the Flywheel housing, as I did not read far enough ahead in the Haynes book to see the note on having a rag and container handy.

 

Next up was the bolts holding the gearbox to the block, lay the engine on its side, a couple of taps with a rubber mallet, and voila!

 

 

 

 

 

Things of note to me: crank has been drilled, so would assume it has been balanced at some point:

 

 

Also, it appears to have a steel block mounted on top of the centre strap, but the original strap looks to be underneath. Is that the normal method for attaching a tougher centre strap? (In one of the Vizard books I have looked at, it implies replacing the centre strap with a stronger steel version).

 

You can also see the timing belt above. the cover for this has TRIGER written on it. Can anyone identify that?

 

 

next step is to clean up a bit and take out the pistons and crank before getting the block re-bored.

 

 

Can anyone recommend a good method for cleaning the block and gearbox casing? I wasnt planning on stripping the gearbox, so dont really want to immerse it in anything or go at it with a jet washer.  A friend of mine who is into bikes swears by muck-off, so i might try that to start.

 

Thanks for looking.

Neil.

 

 

[carbon]

The belt drive timing kit you have is of the type supplied by Minispares in the mid 80's. Came in two versions, fixed timing and adjustable. Looks like you have the fixed timing version. I have used both of these (fixed and adjustable) in fast road engines, and never had any problems.

 

You can still get replacement belts, but go for a good quality one.

[norris2002]

Thanks. I was told it was Minispares by the engines previous owner, but a quick check on their website and it didnt show up.

 

This is a fixed one, and I am in two minds about keeping it. it should be quieter, and I have read some comments about it being stronger, but my mind tells me belts snap, whereas chains will stretch a lot before snapping (by which time I should have noticed and replaced it).

[norris2002]

Its been a while since I updated, and things have changed a bit. I have looked further into the 11 stud engine and gearbox.

 

The gearbox is close ratio with a 3.4 final drive. I can change the final drive easily enough, but the plan for the car is to take it down to Italy for a few weeks holiday, and I think close ratio would get pretty annoying pretty quickly.

 

The block itself currently has a 286 cam, not the previously thought 649. Again, easy to change, but not at all ideal for motorway driving, or visiting sleepy italian villages in the hills as it is. The rest of the block is OK to use: EN16 or EN40 crank (no markings left on it so cannot tell which), GT conrods. It needs a re-bore and looks like it has been decked a lot to raise compression (top of old pistons were burnt too), so I think the best thing to do for now is wrap it us and put it on the shelf for potential future re-build into something a bit racier.

 

Especially as I now have an Innocenti 1300 block to work with :) 

 

This has the 505 (?) crank with bigger bearings, is currently at +20 (not +40 like the 11 stud) so has a bit more life in it, and means I can keep the 11 stud together, and put this block on my existing 1100 gearbox.

 

I also have a "standard" 1275 cam, and what i understand is a 510 from a cooper, but need to double check on that.

 

next step will be taking the innocenti block apart and seeing if it needs a bore/hone etc before preparing it to go on to the gearbox already in my car. I also have a 3.1 final drive to put in the existing gearbox.

 

I am still not sure which of the cams I have should be used, and also which head (re-build one of the 12g940 1805's I have, or try to get hold of a newer 940 with unleaded seats from a metro? 

 

also need a new carb, probably a hif44

[carbon]

Neil,

 

I think the gearbox in the picture has the 4-synchro GT ratios 3.33 / 2.09 / 1.35 / 1 : 1. This is good for road use with 'fast road' cam up to about 276 spec.

 

To check count the teeth on the input gear, should be 18 teeth.