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Fly Off Or Hydraulic Hand Brake ?


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#31 RedRallyMini

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 10:52 AM

Another cheap and easy solution would be to drill a hole thru the handbrake lever and the handbrake knob while having the knob depressed and insert a pin thru the hole when you are out to play. So you can just remove the pin when needed.

 

That's how my dad used to do it, but he used a self tapping screw instead of a pin.



#32 andy159

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 11:32 AM

maybe you just need to practice the handbrake turns, possibly some rally lessons including car control and use of the handbrake



#33 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 11:43 AM

 

Another cheap and easy solution would be to drill a hole thru the handbrake lever and the handbrake knob while having the knob depressed and insert a pin thru the hole when you are out to play. So you can just remove the pin when needed.

 

That's how my dad used to do it, but he used a self tapping screw instead of a pin.

 

I did try that back in the "60's. The problem was that I had to park on a slope during the rally and that proved a problem, so I just turned the pawl around and made it into a proper 'fly-off' and that's what I've used on all my rally Minis ever since.



#34 RedRallyMini

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 02:52 PM

 

 

Another cheap and easy solution would be to drill a hole thru the handbrake lever and the handbrake knob while having the knob depressed and insert a pin thru the hole when you are out to play. So you can just remove the pin when needed.

 

That's how my dad used to do it, but he used a self tapping screw instead of a pin.

 

I did try that back in the "60's. The problem was that I had to park on a slope during the rally and that proved a problem, so I just turned the pawl around and made it into a proper 'fly-off' and that's what I've used on all my rally Minis ever since.

 

 

We don't have a lot of big slopes here in Flanders aka the lowlands :P... but my dad used to put the car in gear when he parked it, that stopped it from rolling away... Don't forget it's in gear when you want to start the engine!



#35 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 05:03 PM

I always park in gear with the handbrake off unless it's on some sort of slope. When rallying in Wales, for example, there are lots of slopes!



#36 RedRallyMini

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 05:56 PM

I always park in gear with the handbrake off unless it's on some sort of slope. When rallying in Wales, for example, there are lots of slopes!

 

Wales has slopes of 40%, am I right? The steepest slope over here (West-Flanders) is 23% and you probably know it, it's the Kemmelberg, that steep cobble road in the forrest in the rally of Ypres...


Edited by RedRallyMini, 14 February 2014 - 06:28 PM.


#37 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 11:26 PM

 

I always park in gear with the handbrake off unless it's on some sort of slope. When rallying in Wales, for example, there are lots of slopes!

 

Wales has slopes of 40%, am I right? The steepest slope over here (West-Flanders) is 23% and you probably know it, it's the Kemmelberg, that steep cobble road in the forrest in the rally of Ypres...

 

I remember it well from the Tour of Ypres Rally, which I first did in a Porsche 2.8 Carrera RS in 1975 (5th Overall).

A super place to go rallying and surprisingly demanding country roads.



#38 tiger99

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 08:20 PM

Has anyone thought of using pivoted quadrants, similar to those on the radius arms, on the subframe instead of the normal 90 degree curved guides? I am sure that such a mod could improve the amount of braking for a given amount of force at the lever, and should be fully road legal. You would need to tell your insurance company of course, but there should be no complications with the MOT or Construction & Use regs, as long as the mod was done competently.

 

Or, perhaps enclosed Bowden cables, as on most modern cars, all the way from the compensator (which balances the force to left and right brakes) to a bracket on the radius arm. Usually the last few inches of cable is open, with a clevis connecting to the operating lever. Modern brake cables last for a very long time, being greased during production, and with a rubber bellows type gaiter at the wheel end, and maybe the lever end too.



#39 Dan

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 08:39 PM

It's the quadrants that fail though, when they seize and stop the brake working. The guides always work to some extent even if they aren't regularly greased. I think if that was a popular mod available from specialists there'd be very few Minis on the road with a functioning handbrake.

#40 yeti21586

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 09:08 PM

http://www.theminifo...-off-handbrake/

#41 tiger99

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 09:24 PM

Dan, your comment is ever so true, there would indeed be lots of handbrakes not working if maintenance was to the usual low standard, applied to most old bangers, i.e. none, until it fails the MOT. But I hope that people using their Mini competitively would do rather better. Maybe I am being too optimistic?

 

I think that if I was doing such a thing, I would want at least bronze bushes and grease nipples, or maybe even sealed needle rollers. A few quid is neither here nor there on a DIY job, although it would be unacceptable on a production car.



#42 jmmini

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 11:52 PM

I have a hydraulic and mechanical handbrake, it's legitimately MOT'ed and I never have a problem. As long as the mechanical brake works within the requirements it gets passed. Plus it was cheaper than the fly-off ones I've seen to do. Op, pm me if you like

#43 miniboy94

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:19 PM

Another cheap and easy solution would be to drill a hole thru the handbrake lever and the handbrake knob while having the knob depressed and insert a pin thru the hole when you are out to play. So you can just remove the pin when needed.

thats a good idea also, so you saying depress the handbrake button drill thought the handbrake+button then when im wanting to play as you said push a pin thought the hole i drilled to stop the handbrake from latching like is that right ? and sorry guys about my spelling and stuff i struggle quite bad i do try my best for other to read it and for it to make sence sorry guys il just take more time typing now :)

 

maybe you just need to practice the handbrake turns, possibly some rally lessons including car control and use of the handbrake

i no what you mean but even with my handbrake fully up i can set of and the wheels turn i have to just my gear to park up on a slope as the car roles away. do you think i need to check the rear quadrents again and make them like new and see if that makes it better or shall i change my cables again? i put them on about a Mouthe ago and the handbrake worked amazing i couldn't fault it but now the cables have stretched and iv adjusted them up it seems to be getting worse?

 

but thanks guys again for the replies :)



#44 Jordie

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:39 PM

loosen handbrake cable adjustment right off. Adjust rear brakes using spanner. Then adjust handbrake cable to suit.



#45 Gremlin

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 10:26 PM

I'm making a hydraulic handbrake for mine at the moment just for the sake of it, at the moment we're just waiting for the welder liner to come as the old one was all clogged up, until then I'm gonna think about making me bracket, I've got to weld some 3/8 female brake unions to the tops of these 7/16 seatbelt bolts

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