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Front Hub Nut Torque & Breaker Bar


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#16 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:13 PM

here you go http://www.amazon.co...v impact wrench

 

You dont have to go for that one mind. I had a £40 amazon voucher, hence why i bought it!

 

Oh and it goes up to 350nm

 

Nice one. And comes with crocodile clips too (I don't have a cigar lighter in mine).



#17 Fast Ivan

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:28 PM

I'm not convinced an impact wrench is the way to go here, I thought they are good for undoing stuff but not for accurate torqueing, happy to be corrected here though 



#18 jime17

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:39 PM

the torque for the single split pin ones is really really tight.

So much so I was expecting something to go bang when torquing it up and ending up kissing the tarmac.

#19 Artstu

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:40 PM

I'm not convinced an impact wrench is the way to go here, I thought they are good for undoing stuff but not for accurate torqueing, happy to be corrected here though 

 

I'm pretty certain the suggestion is for removal only. Having said that most garages use them for tightening too, but I'm not suggesting that.



#20 finch661

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:51 PM

the 12v impact wrench does have a torque limiter on it, so you can set the maximum torque in 10nm intervals. Im not saying its accurate mind (i have a halfords professional torque wrench)



#21 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:13 PM

I really need something for tightening them up.  I'm not adverse to spending £85 since it's something I will use now and again on various vehicles, it's just disheartening as I've already spent a load of money and thought doing the ball joints would be a cheap job!!

 

I'll check out machine mart, see if they're cheaper than Halfords.



#22 Fast Ivan

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:19 PM

so you don't want to borrow one for free from someone in Hampshire?



#23 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:34 PM

so you don't want to borrow one for free from someone in Hampshire?

 

Yeh sure I would - cheers - but was thinking if I could get a cheaper one I would buy it as I might need it again. Where in Hampshire?



#24 RedRuby

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:40 PM

If you can't borrow one have a look at the link below, lots of choice



www.ebay.co.uk › Vehicle Parts & Accessories › Garage Equipment & Tools

#25 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:53 PM

Cheers.

 

Another question: when putting the hub nut etc back on I have read on the forum about torquing up using a flat washer first then using a tapered one. Is this necessary considering I'm not planning on doing the wheel bearings? And do I need a new tapered washer? Is this it? http://www.minispare...49.aspx|Back to



#26 RedRuby

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 05:09 PM

You don't say in your original post why you are re-torquing the castle nuts, if you do not remove the hub then just re-tightening the castle nut is probably OK, but if you remove the hub or disturb the bearing races at all then technically you should re-set them using a large washer first then put the split washer in tighten and then replace the split pin. Everyone has there own view but personally I always reset with washer first and then split washer and always use a torque wrench.

#27 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 05:17 PM

You don't say in your original post why you are re-torquing the castle nuts, if you do not remove the hub then just re-tightening the castle nut is probably OK, but if you remove the hub or disturb the bearing races at all then technically you should re-set them using a large washer first then put the split washer in tighten and then replace the split pin. Everyone has there own view but personally I always reset with washer first and then split washer and always use a torque wrench.

 

OK. I'm removing it because apparently it's easier to do the ball joints with the hub off. What you says makes sense. Is it possible to turn the tapered washer round and use that as a flat one? Or does it not work that way.



#28 RedRuby

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:40 PM

No, the flat washer you should use is larger in diameter so that it connects with the face of the hub to push It into place on the cv joint.

I'm sure you have seen the one that mini spares sells, you may be able to get something similar locally.




SPECIAL WASHER FOR SEATING CV AND WHEELBEARIN......
TOOL21

#29 lewBlew

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:52 PM

No, the flat washer you should use is larger in diameter so that it connects with the face of the hub to push It into place on the cv joint.

I'm sure you have seen the one that mini spares sells, you may be able to get something similar locally.




SPECIAL WASHER FOR SEATING CV AND WHEELBEARIN......
TOOL21

 

Perfect, thanks.

 

Yet another stupid question... when taking the hub itself off you have to disconnect the brakes as per haynes? I don't quite get how it's written. Do you need to disconnect the hose and when you come to refit it use a new shakeproof washer? Then bleed?



#30 Fast Ivan

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:54 PM

yep you need the flat washer, as well as 1 1/2" socket and 1 5/16" socket and of course a ball joint splitter.

don't forget to lap the ball joints in






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