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Rocker Gear Tips - Can They Be Ground Down?


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#16 Gremlin

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 09:59 AM

The holes in the rocker posts are further back and the rockers have a shorter distance between the pushrod adjuster to fulcrum and longer distance between the rocker tip to fulcrum

#17 59 Speed

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 09:18 PM

Decided to have a go at grinding them down. Partly by being a tight bugger but mostly other things need to be bought, wide band AFR gauge for one.

Tried using a smooth smooth sharpening stone but it took me ages so I resorted to my mini air sander with a smooth pad. I then used various grades of wet and try with WD40 all the way up to 1500 grit.

After removing all the old oil off the arms you can see where they have been heat treated. When I've completed all of the tips I'm going to take them in to work and heat treat them again - after a bit of practice of course ;)

Cheers,
Ian

#18 Icey

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 09:37 PM

How do they make the difference between 1.3 and 1.5 then?O.o

 

Think of the rockers like a see-saw. And then apply the ratio.

1:1 would be like a real see-saw, the pivot would be dead center. Move the pivot left or right and you alter the ratio. Take it to an extreme, if one side of the see-saw was double distance from the pivot as the other, it would be a 2:1. Make sense? (Put 'rocker ratios' into Google Images, you'll get a better idea).



#19 Dusky

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 10:09 PM

 

How do they make the difference between 1.3 and 1.5 then?O.o

 

Think of the rockers like a see-saw. And then apply the ratio.

1:1 would be like a real see-saw, the pivot would be dead center. Move the pivot left or right and you alter the ratio. Take it to an extreme, if one side of the see-saw was double distance from the pivot as the other, it would be a 2:1. Make sense? (Put 'rocker ratios' into Google Images, you'll get a better idea).

 

Thank you very much :) 



#20 Yoda

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 04:58 AM

Back in the day, we used a product called Casenite or Kasenite, a carbon/boron rich powder compound. the product was heated to cherry red locally to where the hardening was required and dipped/rolled in the powder. This was a proffessional product and i wonder if it is still readily availble

 

Details here http://Casenite

 

Some other older members may remember this. I think there may still be a tin of it in my fathers garage somewhere. He was a tool maker and we often repaired stuff like rocker arms at home.



#21 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 08:00 AM

Back in the day, we used a product called Casenite or Kasenite, a carbon/boron rich powder compound. the product was heated to cherry red locally to where the hardening was required and dipped/rolled in the powder. This was a proffessional product and i wonder if it is still readily availble

 

Details here http://Casenite

 

Some other older members may remember this. I think there may still be a tin of it in my fathers garage somewhere. He was a tool maker and we often repaired stuff like rocker arms at home.

 

 

Ya I remember that too...good stuff, though be careful with older tins of it, they contain cyanide compounds...



#22 Dan

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 08:20 AM

Boron is almost as bad anyway.

#23 stoneface

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 08:34 AM

I remember kasnite, you can still get it.

We used to have a cyanide hardening department at work. Very handy.

We also used to use stellite welding rod for hard facing.

Somewhere in the garage I still have a Castolin Eutectic oxy-acetylene kit. It has special welding torch (which has a bottle of powder on top) to heat the metal and when it gets to the required temp you pull a trigger and the powder is blasted onto the surface and bonds to it.

Used to be used for building up worn surfaces or applying a hard layer.

Castolin Eutectic

 

Castolin Eutectic

 

Castolin Eutectic





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