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Unleaded Fuel - Article In Mini Mania

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#1 Rog46

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 10:38 AM

I've read this article in MiniMania by Keith Calver -
http://www.minimania..._Use?newsletter

Is there any disadvantage in running on unleaded fuel until the compression starts to drop off and then having the head converted to unleaded? Can you do any permanent damage so as to be unable to fit inserts at a later date?

#2 HarrysMini

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 10:52 AM

What's the point? Just buy some additive like Castrol Valvemaster. 



#3 Shawbags

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 02:44 PM

When I was running VW aircooled campers I used the inline lead adative part , just cut your fuel line like you would adding an inline filter , make sure you get expert advice before using one , I would have thought they where good for any unleaded engine but not sure , Shawbags.



#4 ACDodd

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 05:41 PM

Ruuning an engine till the valve seats fail means that usually the excess heat cause by the loss of valve seal burns the material. This thermal overloading leads to stress which leads to cracking. Once cracked, head is scrap. Far better to insert before this happens.

#5 Vipernoir

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 09:15 PM

Inline "lead additive catalysts" are utter snake oil - they Do Not Work.  Never have, never will.  Scientifically proven fact.

 

The only three additives that actually work (as proven in proper tests) are Valvemaster, RedLine and Millers.



#6 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 04:20 AM

 
Unless you're contemplating inter-galactic mileage, you don't need a converted head. If you're a-series engine has ingested hoops of leaded fuel over many thousand's of miles, and you only do limited casual mileages, you are likely to get away without the need of a conversion or additive. My personal recommendation and experience has proven that using an endorsed additive is the best way to go.

 

How long the lead memory lasts is dependent on mileage and use. A vehicle that's done over 40,000 miles on leaded fuel will probably do 10,000 miles on unleaded before problems occur. Those vehicles used conservatively on mainly light throttle openings (pootling around town, demonic economists, or speed-abhorrent types) will certainly achieve this. Extended periods under maximum load (the progressive, lead-booted, fast and furious driver, driving in motorsport, 'mountainous' regions or long periods at high speed on motorways) will shorten this by about half to two-thirds.

 

 

 

Hmmm....I suppose I'd write an article like that if I was paid by word count - It didn't tell me anything.



#7 Dusky

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 05:37 AM

^ he can never say that something is like this or that, if someone reads it and wont use additives they would complain.

#8 Shawbags

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 08:00 PM

mixed feeling on this subject , I think I will try valvemaster when i'm on the road , a bit every now and them is a fair compromise.



#9 gazza82

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 10:51 PM

I know a fair number of A30/35/40 owners using Valvemaster and are happy with it .. ie no valve damage. So are 'daily drives' too.

Edited by gazza82, 14 May 2014 - 10:53 PM.


#10 Rog46

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 10:59 PM

Ruuning an engine till the valve seats fail means that usually the excess heat cause by the loss of valve seal burns the material. This thermal overloading leads to stress which leads to cracking. Once cracked, head is scrap. Far better to insert before this happens.

 

 

Inline "lead additive catalysts" are utter snake oil - they Do Not Work.  Never have, never will.  Scientifically proven fact.

 

The only three additives that actually work (as proven in proper tests) are Valvemaster, RedLine and Millers.

 

Thanks I think these are the most helpful replies. I know "memory seems to work, its what happens when it runs out that worried me. i'm sure that Shawbags was actually relying on lead memory when he used the in-line additive. I know they don't and can't work!


Edited by Rog46, 14 May 2014 - 11:02 PM.






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