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Yesterday I Bought My 1St Mini, And It's Died. :( Help.


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#16 Alex_B

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:04 PM

As mentioned you can swap the hazard relay/flasher unit to check if thats working, its the same as the indicator one so I tend to swap them to eliminate a broken one; indicator one is under the dash on drivers side, if you get your head under the dash you should spot it, its a silver box with two connections, the hazard one is on the bulkhead and looks the same, swap them and see if now your indicators dont work and hazards do; if this is the case order a new one and fit it (I would put the indicator one back fyi, better to have them working!)

and I would see if you can get a friend who knows electrickery to go over the loom, it sounds like its been butchered and paying an auto electrician can result in a huge bill if hes there for a while (wiring can be an expensive fix) but its all easily fixable with some basic knowledge and someone to watch over you.

Brakes are likely to be a little bit hard work if you are used to servo assisted brakes. But a brakes service would be wise(If you have a servo then it may be worth checking that works)  Take the wheels off and inspect the disks and pads at the front, if they look low or very very mucky then new components would help, the rears are also pretty simple, remove the drums and inspect the inside of the drum and the shoes, if they look low then replacement would be wise. when the drums are reinstalled refit the wheel, spin it and using a brake adjusting spanner (not a normal one a special square one as normal ones can round the adjuster) adjust the amount of grab the shoes have on the drum, the wheel should rotate once and then stop, the drums must always be in contact with the drum. by adjusting the backs it can make the brakes actually feel like they're doing something! 

 



#17 CityEPete

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:20 PM

Sounds like the naughty people who sold it knew the alternator was on its way out so charged the battery before you saw it and hoped for the best. Sounds like the alternator or a duff battery. It would cause you to conk out at speed as there's no power to the fuel pump :-(


Those mechanical fuel pumps dont use much electricty mate ;)

#18 Mrstars11

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:52 PM

Alex b
Thanks for the info mate. That's very helpful.

City e Pete.
Does this mean it died at 40 for another reason?
I got it up to 40 just now and it didn't die, just about 40 anyways.

#19 CityEPete

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 08:09 PM

Well the dead battery will of caused all manner of problems, lack of power to the ignition coil, just generally buggering everything up. Should be fine now if its all behaving properly. What i do know is unless someone has blanked the fuel pump off and fitted an electric one (unlikely) we can rule that out for certain, lol.

Most minis have factory stray wires for things on other models, my city basically has seats and an engine, there are wires for extra fog lights, radio, rev counter etc just tucked away. Dont panic if they look factory but not going anywhere. The hazard switch failing is a favourite mini trick, almost worth buying one, if it works great if not you have it for next time, lol

#20 Cooperman

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:08 AM

Be methodical in sorting it out.

First of all get a Haynes Manual.

Choose which item you want to sort, such as the driving lights, then trace the circuit from beginning to the fault. For this a circuit tester or multi-meter is ideal. They don't cost a lot.

You will soon build up a good knowledge of Minis and a good tool-kit a well.

We are all here to help and with the electrics you'll find David (KernowCooper) a very experienced and helpful person. He will always respond to a PM, as will I on mechanical issues generally.

Now you can start to enjoy your Mini experiences and learn how to keep the little cars on the road.


Edited by Cooperman, 08 June 2014 - 07:09 AM.


#21 Tamworthbay

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 03:08 PM

Any news on this? Have you managed to charge the battery and check it out yet?

#22 pusb

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 05:53 PM

For the hazards just disconnect the relay and give the contacts a bit of a clean. Mine didn't work when I got it, but it worked fine after that.

#23 CityEPete

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 06:44 PM

Just in case, you do know there is another three fuses behind the airbox dont you? My car is an 87 and like yours the hazards did not work, turned out the inline fuse carriers were all corroded and damaged from the airbox hitting them due to failed engine mounts....one job leads to another!

#24 Mrstars11

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:43 PM

Hi guys, I will check this all out tomorrow, I got a Haynes manual today.

My new battery seems to have sorted my mechanical issues.
Took austin out for a little drive today, nothing too far. Just a 15 minute cruise.
Responded like a charm.

:)

#25 CityEPete

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:50 PM

Now the fun begins! Just been to the cash machine, bloke wanted to chat about the car, took said cash to the chippy and the people in the queue were talking about the car not knowing it was mine :)

#26 Tamworthbay

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:51 PM

Hi guys, I will check this all out tomorrow, I got a Haynes manual today.
My new battery seems to have sorted my mechanical issues.
Took austin out for a little drive today, nothing too far. Just a 15 minute cruise.
Responded like a charm.
:)

Check the output on the alternator ASAP, a new battery will run the car for a while but if the alternator is duff it will cause you trouble soon. Good luck.

#27 dklawson

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 10:43 PM

Check the output on the alternator ASAP, a new battery will run the car for a while but if the alternator is duff it will cause you trouble soon. Good luck.

 

+1 on that.  

 

It sounds like you or a friend have a multimeter.  The basic voltage tests were mentioned earlier.  WIth the engine off, measure the voltage across the battery terminals.  As Kernow said, look for something close to 12.5V on a fully charged battery.  Then start the engine and blip the throttle once or twice to get the engine over 2000 RPM.  With the engine idling, repeat the voltage measurement across the battery.  You are looking for the 14V - 15V mentioned earlier.  If it is still around 12.5V, it means you are running on the battery and the alternator is not making electricity.  If you find there is no increase in voltage with the engine running, don't rush out and buy a replacement alternator without posting here first.  There are a couple of other things to check before you spend money.



#28 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:55 AM

I would be looking into the entire wiring loom and checking what works and doesnt while I am at it if I were you, (not as scary as it sounds).
The hazards not working could be something simple like the relay/ flasher unit being duff (very common) or just some wonky wiring, but as that and the battery/charging system are suspect there may be other issues and I think rust and wiring are the two main things you want perfect on a mini, as they cause the most issues.

But dont despair, theres a huge amount of knowledge on here along with people willing to help :) 

 

 

I wouldn't - flasher will be down to low voltage.

 

If the wiring all looks nice and tidy and not butchered around like some of the horror stories we see, then I'd leave well alone unless you have experience dealing with automotive wiring.

 

Fine if you know what you are doing then there can be know harm in pulling apart and cleaning all terminations and earths.



#29 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:58 AM

Hi guys, I will check this all out tomorrow, I got a Haynes manual today.

My new battery seems to have sorted my mechanical issues.
Took austin out for a little drive today, nothing too far. Just a 15 minute cruise.
Responded like a charm.

:)

 

 

It will, but you didn't have any mechanical issue.

You need to read what you were told and get a cheap meter and check the battery voltage with a few revs on the engine - if it isn't up there then you'll be pushing the car again.



#30 Mrstars11

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:38 AM

My friend who had a voltmeter did this check for me the other day, i also have a voltmeter myself now. Just got one.

I will do a double check today to be sure, but when we put in the new battery we did a test on the voltmeter and the battery seemed to be increasing in voltage when the engine was turning over with a few revs.
So im at liberty to believe the alternator is infact working.

I have a new hazzard switch on order so will be able to swap that out in a day or two when that arrives.

Thanks for all the help guys.




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