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Running On 2 Cylinders Help?


Best Answer danny1 , 09 June 2014 - 04:28 PM

Like a stabbed rat, pulled up my drive and was almost uncontrollable on the lose gravel.

Has not mot ATM failed on emissions and wheel bearings so that's next weekends job when I'm back

But guys you were all a big help Go to the full post


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#1 danny1

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:09 PM

We'll my engine is running on 1 and 2 I think that's the closest 2 to the radiator
But the 2 closest to the flywheel just don't seem to run at all I noticed when it was rough and I removed the lead on those 2 nearest the flywheel and it made no diffrance to the engine at all, could it be something like I need to re do the points?
Or spark plugs?

Really confusing me

#2 rally515

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:12 PM

Check the dizzy cap adn rotar arm firstly to see if any plastic moulding has fallen away or broken loose.

 

Next port of call if the spark is there at the spark plug, would be to check the air and fuel mixture is getting to its destination, the spark plugs should tell you that also when you remove them.



#3 brad-the-bear

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:13 PM

swap HT leads 1&4 with each other and 3&2 with each other and retest. if the fault moves then its the leads. if not then remove and inspect the plugs, and do compression test. 


Edited by brad-the-bear, 08 June 2014 - 08:14 PM.


#4 CityEPete

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:15 PM

Plug leads all in the right order?

#5 danny1

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:20 PM

Yeah plugs and leads are in the right order it's just not firring, I've just replaced the dizzy cap and rotar arm so there all new, I'll check the plugs tomorrow and see if it's that, I'll also try changing the leads over, but there brand new as we'll

#6 Dusky

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:32 PM

Could be bad spark plugs, . Are you on a twin carb setup?

Did the problem occur after something special ? ( eg hard driving and suddenly rough running?)

 

 

cheers!



#7 danny1

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:38 PM

It's a weber carb, so it could need fine tuning, so I'll have to have a look tomorrow morning

#8 sledgehammer

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:48 PM

if sparks in the right place ...

 

compression test would be a good idea

 

does it have a servo - check the pipe isn't cracked / leaking so 3&4 are running weak

 

same with inlet gasket a leak will run 3&4 weak

 

is this after major work - or did it suddenly happen ?



#9 cal844

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:50 PM

Id change poins and condensor(if fitted)

Its not the first time ive had bad plugs or leads... We had a misfire for 2 weeks..that got to the point i bought a pack of 10 plugs and 2 new sets of leads, what i didnt use were sent for refund, any faulty items were handled seperately as they go back for testing!

#10 sledgehammer

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:51 PM

swap HT leads 1&4 with each other and 3&2 with each other and retest. if the fault moves then its the leads. if not then remove and inspect the plugs, and do compression test. 

 

He means the whole lead - not just swapping the plug caps (brad is correct - but it could be read wrong)



#11 danny1

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 09:03 PM

Oh no I know what he means by swapping the whole lead round, it's to late to fire it up now as we have animals on out farm, but I'll do it all tomorrow and let you know what I find

#12 Dusky

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 10:21 PM

Could be the weber that has 1 side blocked. Happened on our mini( he has a split setup) but I think same things apply on singles because a weber is basically a twin carb in 1 housing?

#13 dklawson

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 10:28 PM

I know you said the firing order is correct but please check it one more time... especially since you said you have replaced some of the other ignition components.

 

Please see the FAQ linked below showing the engine, cylinder identification, direction the rotor turns, and the plug wire positions on the distributor cap.

http://www.theminifo...s-firing-order/

 

Paraphrasing the link... the firing order is 1-4-3-2 1-3-4-2 COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap with cylinder #1 being at the water pump end.  If the plug wires are put on in a linear pattern going clockwise (1-2-3-4 clockwise) the 1 & 2 would still fire correctly while 3 & 4 would not.

 

When did the engine last run correctly and what has been done to the car/engine since then?

 

EDIT:  DAGNABIT !!! fat fingers and too little proof reading!  Thanks Captain!  Order corrected!


Edited by dklawson, 09 June 2014 - 12:05 PM.


#14 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 04:01 AM

I know you said the firing order is correct but please check it one more time... especially since you said you have replaced some of the other ignition components.

 

Please see the FAQ linked below showing the engine, cylinder identification, direction the rotor turns, and the plug wire positions on the distributor cap.

http://www.theminifo...s-firing-order/

 

Paraphrasing the link... the firing order is 1-4-3-2 COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap with cylinder #1 being at the water pump end.  If the plug wires are put on in a linear pattern going clockwise (1-2-3-4 clockwise) the 1 & 2 would still fire correctly while 3 & 4 would not.

 

When did the engine last run correctly and what has been done to the car/engine since then?

 

 

I know that's a typo. :-)



#15 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 04:02 AM

Oh no I know what he means by swapping the whole lead round, it's to late to fire it up now as we have animals on out farm, but I'll do it all tomorrow and let you know what I find

 

 

Oh I don't know - I'm told the white horse knows quite a bit about cars.






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