29 replies to this topic

[foggy]

Hi all.after a few issues with my 998 carbed engine in my 79 clubman this latest one takes the biscuit!
Yesterday i reset the timing with a timing gun to get it running better.which it did.so i then removed the gun put the king lead back on and tried to start and it didnt. I then found the king lead was getting next to no spark when put against a good earth. So thought just my luck but bought today a new 12v non ballasted coil as i believe this is the correct one for my system as the last one was also non ballasted. I also got new ht leads too. Just fitted them and now i get one spark out of the king lead when put to eartg then no more sparks as i crank the engine. For info i have a simonbbc electronic dizzy... help much appreciated! :)

[foggy]

The only thing I can think of is a faulty coil?

[Dan]

Not the coil from the sound of it. Probably wasn't the first coil either! Did you disturb the electronic ignition wiring when playing with the gun? Is the dizzy cap damaged?

Edited by Dan, 11 June 2014 - 07:50 PM.

[foggy]

No I kept it all the same, just connected the gun to the king lead and the centre of the dizzy and it ran lovely once I had timed it. Then removed the gun and reconnected the lead. I get one short spark if I take the dizzy end of the king lead and put it to earth and turn the key and then it stops. So the issue is before the dizzy surely?

[Dan]

Is it just a gun that uses the leads then, no 12v to it? What happens if you replace the main lead with one of the other 4? The dizzy (no not the cap, you're right there) is what makes the coil work, it doesn't just keep firing off sparks.

[foggy]

It basically joins between the king lead and the dizzy cap and has a socket to plug into the mains (of the house) to power the gun.

[foggy]

Oh sorry. The I tried 2 different main leads.the old one and the new one I got today

[Dan]

Wow! Ok, start with just checking all the connections haven't come loose at the coil and dizzy then, easy to overlook something simple. Coils don't really just stop.

Edited by Dan, 11 June 2014 - 08:11 PM.

[KernowCooper]

Do the tests here for the Hall Effect trigger unit to see if its switching the coil, that will pinpoint if the modules doing its job http://www.theminifo...-systemtesting/

 

 

You dont have issues where the trigger wheel has slipped down on the distributor shaft like some here have found? and changed to the one piece trigger wheel and rotor arm.

[foggy]

Yea im stumped.thanks kernow I will read through that. With regards to the trigger wheel I don't know. I havent heard of it before.is it a splined shaft or something that engages into the rotor arm?

[foggy]

Kernow, could I not do the aldon ignition test to tell me if the coil is faulty? Or am I reading this wrong?

[KernowCooper]

Some of the trigger wheels dont have the small lip to set the height of the trigger wheel in relation to the trigger, some have used the one piece rotor trigger is overcome this issue

 

You only do the Aldon Igniter test if your running that trigger the Accuspark/Powersparks triggers you do the top test.

[foggy]

I dont fully understand to be honest. The trigger wheel is the rotor arm is it? And the trigger is what part? I havent delved into much detail on the ignition system as you may have noticed! Ha

[KernowCooper]

The trigger wheel is the black round unit you push down onto the distributor shaft, you do the tests on the trigger to see its switching the coil and then do the tests on the coil as per the coil tests in the FAQs electrical

[Dan]

The trigger and the wheel are the bits under the dizzy cap that time the sparks, they make the module fire the coil.