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Why Would Paint React


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#1 olly33

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 09:48 PM

Hi, my mini has reacted on the wings, its only ever had primer and then rattle cans over it, since new wings fitted.Using 2k basecoat and clear coat.Is the paint now different to a few years ago, that maybe causing this?

 

Also, why would my roof have an effect, as if little dents where in the roof,even tho there is not.Roof was taken back to the metal in the end as paint reacted first time round.

Cheers olly



#2 The Clubby Hubby

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 09:53 PM

sounds like u have a silicon problem where are you painting? silicon particles in the air from waxy polishes or dash shine back 2 black  etc stick to the surface the only way to get rid is start again make sure you find the source of silicon and degrease everything at least twice with a good quality panel wipe



#3 olly33

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:18 PM

Its not me painting it, but its being done under a gazebo with closed sides to it.He painted his own car recently, with no reactions at all and has experience of painting.Its just baffling him, and me.



#4 The Clubby Hubby

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:24 PM

I think its a silicon reaction google pics and see if it looks the same



#5 olly33

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 11:17 PM

I have not seen it in the flesh yet, only what he has said.The first reaction was like a knife been cut through the paint.



#6 Morry Stu

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 12:47 AM

2k over acrylic/celly will react. The thinners in the 2k soften celly and react.

#7 stevearch0

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 01:56 AM

sounds like a reaction called crazing. when youve seen it in the flesh, google paint crazing and see if its the same. usually caused by the temp being too cold when being applied.

2k is generally ok to go over celly, as long as its been keyed and prepped correctly. recently resprayed my old mk3 which was diy'ed in celly, with 2k old english white. been on 4 mths, and no reactions ..........yet



#8 frosty90

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 02:41 PM

sounds like a reaction called crazing. when youve seen it in the flesh, google paint crazing and see if its the same. usually caused by the temp being too cold when being applied.

2k is generally ok to go over celly, as long as its been keyed and prepped correctly. recently resprayed my old mk3 which was diy'ed in celly, with 2k old english white. been on 4 mths, and no reactions ..........yet

 

I had this when painting a friends car, we only left the primer to set for 2 hours then when we lay the base coat it reacted. leaving a spider like cracks in the paint. a good rub back and painted again solved it :)



#9 olly33

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:09 PM

Still not seen the car yet, but he said the roof looks a bit ripply, and like tiny dents over it.

He said, he maybe over exaggerating the affect, as he does not want me to be shocked when I see it, but obviously its something his not been able to correct.He says, it may need a skim of light filler all over the roof to correct it, but would this not crack over time?



#10 Daz1968

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:33 PM

Can't imagine a skim of filler being an option, just have it flatted and repainted, unusual for 2k though I have found it doesn't react with anything on my car, covered over original cellulose and some panels painted in an unknown paint, cellulose on the other hand has problems over coating anything except cellulose. I would always paint a car with either epoxy or 2k high build primer before any base or top coats.
May be as above and be silicon contamination as this looks like little craters in the surface. Or maybe he just can't paint and it's massive orange peel need to go have a look

#11 Cooperman

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:48 PM

It is called 'reticulation and is very common when non-compatible paints are used.

However, despair ye not! There is a primer-type paint called 'Barcoat'. It is a yellow colour and is applied straight from the can via a spray gun. It isolates the old surface and you can then spray grey or white primer straight on followed by top coat of cellulose, 2k or whatever. After applying a couple of coats of Barcoat you don't rub it down at all. You simply spray a quality primer or a high-build primer on, 'nib' that back, followed by top coat.

I had to use it on a glider recently to stop reticulation when we re-painted part of a wing. Wonderful stuff. 

In fact it can be a good idea to use it even when you have gone back almost to bare metal as it takes away the worries.



#12 ANON

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:54 PM

 and has experience of painting.

 

 

does that mean he's painted a few cars for mates and they've turned out ok...ish ;-) 



#13 Cooperman

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:34 PM

 

 and has experience of painting.

 

 

does that mean he's painted a few cars for mates and they've turned out ok...ish ;-) 

 

 

If he doesn't know what reticulation is and how to deal with it I don't think I would want him near any of my cars.



#14 olly33

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:54 PM

His done 2 of his own cars that I have seen, and no problems at all and look like decent paint jobs.

He did flat it back, and still showing once the clearcoat was added.

I wait till I see it, but I did put things on the roof when stripping it, but I do not think thats the problem...

Bar coat was used on the wing today to stop any reaction again.



#15 corrado vr6

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 10:46 PM

I have had simulate when I flatted back my primer and sanded back to the lower layers of paint, it then reacted with the outline of where the primer was not




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