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Why Would Paint React


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#16 olly33

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 10:01 PM

The roof has not turned out well, ripple and small dents, can only be down to the metal, as it's not a paint reaction. Not sure how to get round this, accept keep building the paint or lacquer  up by layers? 



#17 Daz1968

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 10:59 PM

If it's rippled and full of small dents then needs filling and reshaping then high build primer and flatting with guide coat before new top coat applying, was it flatted with guide coat before painting as it usually shows any problem areas,

#18 ANON

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:29 PM

 Not sure how to get round this,

 

 

give it to a painter to do ;-) 



#19 olly33

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 08:11 PM

In hindsight, another painter, yes, but as he's had it now he is going to try to put it right, once I have put the car back together. Will filler not crack overtime on the roof, being a big flexible area.? 

Was told today without seeing it, that stopper and high build primer might sort it?
Any idea if this stuff is worth trying.

Could leatherette it, or put fibreglass skin over the top.

#20 stevearch0

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 02:06 AM

the idea is to remove as much of the dent as possible, so using the minimal of filler. it wont crack unless the filler is overly thick. just a light skim to even up the surface



#21 joakwin

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 09:39 AM

could be the humidity, could be the oils from your hands, could be the different types of paint used, could be to cold

many things can make paint react



#22 MiniElliott

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 10:38 AM

I recently sprayed cellulose primer over the original cellulose base coat applied when the car was built. I noticed that the primer only reacted where I had previously used cellulose rattle cans in the past. They were halfords own brand and I believe sonic had similar issues with these on project erm

#23 danie garry

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 11:08 AM

I recently sprayed cellulose primer over the original cellulose base coat applied when the car was built. I noticed that the primer only reacted where I had previously used cellulose rattle cans in the past. They were halfords own brand and I believe sonic had similar issues with these on project erm

 

i had the same problem sprayin 2k over halfords paint, used barcoat and problem solved



#24 myredmini

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 11:19 AM

Barcoat isnt ideal. Eventually it will begin to peel from edges and inside radius'. Barcoat lies on top of the old paint and doesnt adhere properly to allow it to isolate it. You will get maybe 4-5 years from it so ideal for a temp job.

#25 Cooperman

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 01:51 PM

If there is reticulation there are really only 2 options: Strip right back to completely bare metal by using Nitromors and/or by sand blasting, or use BarCoat.



#26 olly33

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 08:46 PM

Hi, no the problem now, is not the paint reacting, but where it has now been taken back to metal on the roof, as to stop any reactions occuring again.

The paint itself is fine now on the roof,but since going back to the metal,the roof is now rippled and small dents all over it?

Heat from taking back all the paint off it, perhaps?,there was quite a lot of coats on there, and some sort of black stick stuff

Attached Files


Edited by olly33, 12 July 2014 - 09:16 PM.


#27 Cooperman

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 09:38 PM

Without actually seeing it, it is hard to tell whether it will need some filler in the dents or whether a good 'high-build' primer would do the job.

You need someone with good body finishing experience to sort this as whoever has been doing it doesn't seem to know how to do it correctly. Sorry to be blunt, but that is what is coming across here.



#28 olly33

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 09:50 PM

Can you see the ripples in the pic on the left side, you can feel it as you run your hand over it.



#29 Cooperman

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 11:01 PM

As a general rule you can fill imperfections up to a depth of around 1.5 mm to 2 mm with High-Build Primer-Filler. Some reckon a bit more than this so long as you allow a good time between the thick coats. Then allow plenty of time for it to harden before 'blocking down' with aluminium oxide paper on a large flat rectangular block. Spray a 'witness coat' before final top coat.



#30 olly33

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 08:20 PM

Thanks will pass the info onto the painter when it's ready to be looked at again.




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