Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Allspeed Cg13De Micra Build


  • Please log in to reply
165 replies to this topic

#16 dougie1142

dougie1142

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 500 posts
  • Location: Inverness/Elgin
  • Local Club: I.M.O.G

Posted 22 September 2014 - 04:26 PM

Taken an interest to these Micra builds. What sort of budget are you running?

 

Following!



#17 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 22 September 2014 - 04:39 PM

Small update :

Drive shafts back from the engineering shop with sleeves. just need to weld them now.

Attached File  IMG_1905.jpg   65.15K   60 downloads

 

 

in terms of budget... hmm

Frame and lower arms from Allspeed was the most expensive part. £852

Micra Engine,gearbox, loom -  by the time i sold the bits i don't need +£100 profit!!!!

Fuel tank from MPI - £80 to £100

 

Alloy pipes and stuff for the inlet manifold plus professional welding about £350, I'm sure you could do this cheaper but i had to learn the hard way.

 

Exhaust - basic hack is nothing but plate steel and mig welding. £30 worth of pipe and 90 deg bend.

 

Alternator £80

Electric fan for rad, £50.

random wires and relays etc £40.

 

then its just mates rates for welding the gear lever , brackets etc.


Edited by al_reidy, 19 October 2014 - 12:40 PM.


#18 BradleyRogerson

BradleyRogerson

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Runcorn

Posted 22 September 2014 - 10:20 PM

oshh iv not even spent half that! but allspeed frames dont grown on trees i suppose 



#19 dougie1142

dougie1142

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 500 posts
  • Location: Inverness/Elgin
  • Local Club: I.M.O.G

Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:50 AM

That's pretty fair, could probably be cut down a bit then. Cheaper than building an equivalent spec A-series motor.



#20 l_jonez

l_jonez

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,453 posts
  • Local Club: south wales mini club

Posted 23 September 2014 - 09:55 AM

Same here I think my initial build came in under £500 but I already had most parts and built my own frame. Things like a rebore ITB's and standalone ecu came later on and added a few hundred.

I think that the allspeed frame is a good route for people without the ability to make their own frame.

#21 dougie1142

dougie1142

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 500 posts
  • Location: Inverness/Elgin
  • Local Club: I.M.O.G

Posted 23 September 2014 - 12:12 PM

Did you modify an older subframe to take it or build a new one from scratch? Weighing up the options, i don't have too much time to set aside so the idea of buying one is good, however if costs can be reduced then of course need to have a think,



#22 l_jonez

l_jonez

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,453 posts
  • Local Club: south wales mini club

Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:36 PM

Modified a standard subframe. Cost came to 50-ish quid for steel etc, it just takes more time and trial and error. My build is here... http://www.theminifo...howtopic=193323

#23 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:37 PM

The surprise for me was the necessity to buy non standard lower arms. So the cost is much higher and they wear out much quicker than standard ones. I think it should be an optional choice which lower arms to use.
If I had the skill I would have made the frame myself, although it is nice to know that it is properly made and strong.

#24 dougie1142

dougie1142

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 500 posts
  • Location: Inverness/Elgin
  • Local Club: I.M.O.G

Posted 23 September 2014 - 05:45 PM

Modified a standard subframe. Cost came to 50-ish quid for steel etc, it just takes more time and trial and error. My build is here... http://www.theminifo...howtopic=193323

 

Thanks, frame looks fairly easy to make to be honest. Perhaps i'll give it a try. Let me give the purists something to write about, Micra powered Mk1. Hehe



#25 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 19 October 2014 - 11:43 AM

Finally got around to making (or having made for me) the inlet manifold.

Attached File  IMG_1938.jpg   62.74K   49 downloads

Attached File  IMG_1939.jpg   52.66K   42 downloads

Attached File  IMG_1940.jpg   62.8K   30 downloads

 

So it now runs  :D

Attached File  IMG_1942.MOV   681.09K   92 downloads



#26 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 19 October 2014 - 08:43 PM

tried to see if the clutch operation was working when the engine was running. turns out that was a bad thing to do. the clutch cable moved slightly under tension of the pedal pressure, forced its shielding to break on the positive terminal on the starter motor and set the shielding on fire! 

oh well. perhaps its time to look closer at the hydraulic conversion bits : 

 

http://www.rallydesi...roducts_id=4080

 

 

it might work....



#27 l_jonez

l_jonez

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,453 posts
  • Local Club: south wales mini club

Posted 19 October 2014 - 10:07 PM

Or insulate the positive terminal?

#28 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 20 October 2014 - 05:43 AM

Yeah, that needs doing anyway. I did think that if I stuck with a cable I could add a silicone pipe over the clutch cable to stop it ever happening again.
I still don't know if my method of pulling the clutch cable will work.

#29 al_reidy

al_reidy

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location: Leeds
  • Local Club: Geeks N Freaks

Posted 22 October 2014 - 07:05 PM

So I'm pleased to say i went for a drive tonight in the wet. it was quick loud and smelly.

the smell was (i hope) just crap burning off the exhaust manifold etc as it calmed down after the run.

Noisy im guessing from the custom inlet manifold which whistles and growls at various points in the rev / load range.

 

spins wheels up worse than the 1380, it feels much faster as I'm guessing its got more low down grunt.

 

I have an issue with the clutch, which i did convert to hydraulic. it makes a noise on full pedal down. it effects the engine note. I'm thinking there is something wrong in the clutch housing. but it drives fine if a little hard to get in gear when down shifting.

5th gear on a mini is weird!

i still need to do wheel alignment but the handling is easily the best i have had in a mini. rose joints may be the reason but I'm also guessing that the reduced weight of the engine will also make a difference.

 

so new tyres needed for the wet. some tweaks to stuff but in essence a really good night!



#30 fuzzy-hair-man

fuzzy-hair-man

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 181 posts
  • Location: Armidale NSW
  • Local Club: Minis in the Gong

Posted 24 October 2014 - 07:44 AM

Congratulations! Your build went a lot faster than mine... Oh well it will get there eventually.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users