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Allspeed Cg13De Micra Build


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#16 dougie1142

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 04:26 PM

Taken an interest to these Micra builds. What sort of budget are you running?

 

Following!



#17 al_reidy

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 04:39 PM

Small update :

Drive shafts back from the engineering shop with sleeves. just need to weld them now.

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in terms of budget... hmm

Frame and lower arms from Allspeed was the most expensive part. £852

Micra Engine,gearbox, loom -  by the time i sold the bits i don't need +£100 profit!!!!

Fuel tank from MPI - £80 to £100

 

Alloy pipes and stuff for the inlet manifold plus professional welding about £350, I'm sure you could do this cheaper but i had to learn the hard way.

 

Exhaust - basic hack is nothing but plate steel and mig welding. £30 worth of pipe and 90 deg bend.

 

Alternator £80

Electric fan for rad, £50.

random wires and relays etc £40.

 

then its just mates rates for welding the gear lever , brackets etc.


Edited by al_reidy, 19 October 2014 - 12:40 PM.


#18 BradleyRogerson

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 10:20 PM

oshh iv not even spent half that! but allspeed frames dont grown on trees i suppose 



#19 dougie1142

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:50 AM

That's pretty fair, could probably be cut down a bit then. Cheaper than building an equivalent spec A-series motor.



#20 l_jonez

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 09:55 AM

Same here I think my initial build came in under £500 but I already had most parts and built my own frame. Things like a rebore ITB's and standalone ecu came later on and added a few hundred.

I think that the allspeed frame is a good route for people without the ability to make their own frame.

#21 dougie1142

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 12:12 PM

Did you modify an older subframe to take it or build a new one from scratch? Weighing up the options, i don't have too much time to set aside so the idea of buying one is good, however if costs can be reduced then of course need to have a think,



#22 l_jonez

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:36 PM

Modified a standard subframe. Cost came to 50-ish quid for steel etc, it just takes more time and trial and error. My build is here... http://www.theminifo...howtopic=193323

#23 al_reidy

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:37 PM

The surprise for me was the necessity to buy non standard lower arms. So the cost is much higher and they wear out much quicker than standard ones. I think it should be an optional choice which lower arms to use.
If I had the skill I would have made the frame myself, although it is nice to know that it is properly made and strong.

#24 dougie1142

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 05:45 PM

Modified a standard subframe. Cost came to 50-ish quid for steel etc, it just takes more time and trial and error. My build is here... http://www.theminifo...howtopic=193323

 

Thanks, frame looks fairly easy to make to be honest. Perhaps i'll give it a try. Let me give the purists something to write about, Micra powered Mk1. Hehe



#25 al_reidy

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 11:43 AM

Finally got around to making (or having made for me) the inlet manifold.

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So it now runs  :D

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#26 al_reidy

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 08:43 PM

tried to see if the clutch operation was working when the engine was running. turns out that was a bad thing to do. the clutch cable moved slightly under tension of the pedal pressure, forced its shielding to break on the positive terminal on the starter motor and set the shielding on fire! 

oh well. perhaps its time to look closer at the hydraulic conversion bits : 

 

http://www.rallydesi...roducts_id=4080

 

 

it might work....



#27 l_jonez

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 10:07 PM

Or insulate the positive terminal?

#28 al_reidy

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 05:43 AM

Yeah, that needs doing anyway. I did think that if I stuck with a cable I could add a silicone pipe over the clutch cable to stop it ever happening again.
I still don't know if my method of pulling the clutch cable will work.

#29 al_reidy

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 07:05 PM

So I'm pleased to say i went for a drive tonight in the wet. it was quick loud and smelly.

the smell was (i hope) just crap burning off the exhaust manifold etc as it calmed down after the run.

Noisy im guessing from the custom inlet manifold which whistles and growls at various points in the rev / load range.

 

spins wheels up worse than the 1380, it feels much faster as I'm guessing its got more low down grunt.

 

I have an issue with the clutch, which i did convert to hydraulic. it makes a noise on full pedal down. it effects the engine note. I'm thinking there is something wrong in the clutch housing. but it drives fine if a little hard to get in gear when down shifting.

5th gear on a mini is weird!

i still need to do wheel alignment but the handling is easily the best i have had in a mini. rose joints may be the reason but I'm also guessing that the reduced weight of the engine will also make a difference.

 

so new tyres needed for the wet. some tweaks to stuff but in essence a really good night!



#30 fuzzy-hair-man

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 07:44 AM

Congratulations! Your build went a lot faster than mine... Oh well it will get there eventually.




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