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Underbody Sealing


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#16 Rog46

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 04:03 PM

If you've had any welding done don't forger to seal the seams first!

#17 spritey

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 10:51 PM

Paint stripper the old Hammerite off then re prime and coat with desired product I used upol raptor which everyone I know that has used it can't fault but u could then put a coat of dynax uv if desired

#18 skoughi

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 09:07 AM

Hanmerite will be ok generally if it's left for a while for all the thinner etc to evaporate, when I say a while I mean about a yearish!! I painted similar type of paint on my clubman and had very little reaction problems but as I say it was on for a long time before I over painted. If it had've been practical then I probably would've stripped it off!

#19 skoughi

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 09:08 AM

I used raptor as well and it's fantastic stuff!! Very tough once it hardens .

#20 Archived1

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 10:15 AM

Waxoyl will go over hammerite.  Hammerite is a good hard wearing underbody paint.



#21 myredmini

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:36 PM

I dont think hammerite is as good as it used to be  <_<



#22 HarrysMini

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:43 PM

I dont think hammerite is as good as it used to be  <_<

Hammerite is okay, I swear by it for brake callipers and anything else that gets hot as it just doesn't melt. 

 

From what I've been told, it used to be the thing to use (including WaxOyl), but I think over the years it has got worse, and better products have come along. 



#23 sonikk4

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 04:12 PM

Hammerite is nowhere near as good as it used to be. In the early 80's it was the thing to paint on your subbies, suspension etc and was rock hard but of late its nowhere as good. I have used the Aerosol version on a parcel box i built out of Aluminium and it has stood the test of time. But using it on my car now i dont think i would bother. 



#24 Covert

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 04:28 PM

Its a bit like nitromors paintstripper, they have taken all the good stuff out , environmentally conscious and all that jazz

#25 Wise Old Elf

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 04:52 PM

Has everyone gone off POR15? It seem Raptor is the fav now?

 

POR15 is very expensive as the tins are quite small. I am on the third tin and will need more :0 I may switch to Raptor for the next resto. 



#26 HarrysMini

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 05:01 PM

Has everyone gone off POR15? It seem Raptor is the fav now?

 

POR15 is very expensive as the tins are quite small. I am on the third tin and will need more :0 I may switch to Raptor for the next resto. 

POR15 is probably my favourite paint. I haven't come across anything better for applications such as chassis and subframes.



#27 frosty90

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 08:17 AM

Started to clean up inside the wings yesterday, is there much difference between raptor and gravitex for the money? to me gravitex seems a lot cheaper....



#28 myredmini

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 11:52 AM

Gravitex is a 1k product raptor is a 2k product. Raptor dries much faster and harder. Worth the extra money i say!

#29 pothole

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 10:03 AM

I have always wirebrushed, hammerite, tetrasealed and waxoyled, as always its the preparation thats the important part not usally the stuff you are putting on.

 

Every year the underside is checked over for the pre MOT and a fresh coating of waxoyled applied with a brush and cheap spray bottle from Wilko for the tricky bits.


Edited by pothole, 11 October 2014 - 10:08 AM.


#30 leeuk

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 11:58 AM

This is how I did the underside of my van just recently.

 

The first job is most defiantly the messiest, Completely removing all the grime, grease and muck from the underside.

To do this I first started off using a wallpaper scraper to remove the bulk of the grime.

(please click on the pictures to enlarge)

 

Attached File  van 33.JPG   71.57K   17 downloads

 

 

It was then time to use a wire wheel attachment which really got me covered in oil and grease so be sure to cover up if you decide to do the same,

I then gave everything a good going over with the DA and some 80grit before scrubbing the lot with thinners, This helped to remove the remaining oil and grease from all the nucks and crannies.

 

Attached File  van 35.JPG   62.5K   14 downloads

 

 

Once I was happy it was completely clean I then set about treating the underside with products from the Bilt Hamber range. The bare steel was treated with 2 decent coats of Hydrate 80

 

Attached File  van 36.JPG   61.65K   13 downloads

 

It was then left to dry for 24hrs so as it could receive a good keying with a scotch pad.

 

Attached File  van 37.JPG   65.6K   9 downloads

 

 

Next job on my list to do was to apply the seam sealant,

 

Attached File  van 38.JPG   51.81K   15 downloads

 

 

Once I was happy the sealant was dry the underside was then treated with a good helping of Bilt Hamber`s Electrox Zinc rich primer,

 

Attached File  van 39.JPG   53.55K   11 downloads

 

 

It was then stonechipped with Gravitex and then primered in preparation for the colour,

 

Attached File  van 55.JPG   60.34K   17 downloads

 

 

The same was done inside the engine bay only the stonechip was rubbed smooth this was the same as I did to the rear valance to get a smooth finish ;)

 

Once the van is completely finished I shall then treat the underside with some of Bilt Hamber Dynax wax treatments, Making sure I get cover the underside and get into all the hard to reach nucks and crannies,

This is how I decided to treat mine, people have there own way of doing things but I wanted to use Bilt Hamber products and try to make a decent job of it. Im quite happy with how its turned out and I can rest assured that it should last for a good number of years..


Edited by leeuk, 11 October 2014 - 12:34 PM.





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