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Not Happy With My Respray


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#16 Daz1968

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 09:30 PM

I paint with 2k so use an airfed mask, but the filtration required for airfed removes all oil and water, so even when I do paint with 1k I use the same filtration. I have a long solid pipe installation with drop legs to remove some water, then a basic water trap filter regulator followed by a coalescing filter, then a small devilbiss water trap mounted on the gun, even when my compressor runs constant I get no water through to the gun. I wouldn't paint without all the filters in place as water is a pain when painting. I tried cellulose and now much prefer 2k, but if I do use 1k I use basecoat and upol smart clear 1k as it is much better in my experience.

#17 96minimig

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 06:13 AM

So anyone know of decent in line water traps

#18 davejustdave

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 11:18 AM

Looking at the pic on my phone it could also be solvent pop, another issue with celly, and the number of coats you put on, types of thinner etc.. solvent pops from the coats below and holes the top... If you decide to repaint you could have issues doing again in celly as the thinners will react with the paint you've got on there now...

#19 miniBrain

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 04:24 PM

So anyone know of decent in line water traps

 

Here's my setup mate.

 

Norgren water trap/coarse filter/regulator and a DeVilbiss coalescing filter. I think both cost best part of £200 at the time but painted two cars in celly with no problems. You need the coalescing filter to remove oil - you'd be amazed at the crud that these two trap.

 

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#20 Craig89

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 05:59 PM

Norgren get my vote, top quality

#21 96minimig

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 06:33 PM

Cheers for the very useful tips guys. I got a quote today from a local Bodyshop for a exterior respray excluding the roof and I would prep and strip it out and trailer it there. Think he will paint it in 2k he said to flat it back I presume back to the primer I applied which was also grey cellulose. I hope this won't react or is there an isolator that will stop it. I am going to drop in soon and have chat but I got a fair price. Will need plenty of 600 wet and dry now I think lol

#22 davejustdave

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 07:23 PM

Speak with the bodyshop about how far back to take it, let them know how it's been prepped previously.. If this came to us we would insist on a barcoat to try to stop any reactions, that would obviously attract additional costs, make sure you and the bodyshop know exactly where you stand, as long as they know what they are dealing with you won't get a call saying its reacted and the cost is rising!

#23 miniphil53

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 09:23 PM

Hi
I know how you feel I sprayed mine Tahiti blue and white roof  with base coat and lacquer top  been ok for 8 months.

Washed the car on Saturday next day it was covered in small blisters.

I have slowly warmed the wing with an infrared  heater and they have reduced the size down but looks like I will have to flat back to old paint and start again. 






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