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Issues Starting/turning Over


Best Answer MathieuGT , 05 February 2015 - 12:26 AM

MathieuGT, what is the red charge warning light on the dash doing?  Is it...

OFF with the key out of the ignition,

ON with the key in the run position, engine off,

and OFF with the engine running?

 

HelloM8, what do you mean "... zapped the battery power straight away" ?  Are you saying that you charged the battery, cleaned all the connections, and just hooking the battery up something drained all the charge away?

Yes, the charging lights was following this pattern. Sorry didn't reply, only just saw this.

 

Managed to get it sorted in the end so hopefully this will help anyone else out there with a similar problem. After changing the battery earth lead and the terminal to the positive which seemed to solve the problem for a few days the problem returned. Next we added another earth strap to the engine.

The problem was still occurring but we noticed that there was a spark when the battery terminals were connected, this therefore meant that something was draining the battery overnight leading the car to not start in the mornings.

We unplugged the alternator after fully charging the battery and waited until the morning, came out and it flew into life.

This pretty much narrowed it down to the alternator causing the issues starting however the output was fine (13.8V) so it left us puzzled as to what was wrong with it. Turned out the alternator was discharging the battery through the diode pack causing the battery to give lacklustre starting ability when left for a period of time of more than 6+ hours.

this was sorted with a trip to Minispares and buying a new alternator which came up at a shade over £40 and the car is now behaving well and starting on the button.

So happy to be able to actually rely on it to some degree again as it's my daily along with a motorbike, which gets silly in this weather.

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27 replies to this topic

#1 hellom8

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:23 AM

Hi,

My 91 1275 auto has an issue starting/turning over the engine.

The battery has to be charged to 14.7 volts and start on the first attempt.

Any attempt to start the car after that, then the engine bearly turns a rotation and then stops turning.

Even trying to start the car with a booster dosen't work, it has to have a fully charged battery.

The battery is new, HB075 with 500 CCA.

Is this likely to be a starter motor issue?.  I have a multi meter but don't know what tests to do to issolate the issue.

Any ideas?.

Cheers.

Iggy



#2 firstmini

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:05 AM

I am def not a mechanic so could be completely wrong, but thought I'd reply as it sounds exactly the same as my issue a few weeks back - was having to put a booster pack on & plug it into the mains for over an hour for the battery to charge up enough for me to start it. The mechanic I use had the car running and tested the battery which came back at under 12v so diagnosed it as needing a new alternator. Has started first turn of the key everytime since.... As Ben's signature says (Im Sure it's Ben O) an expert will be along shortly.

 

Hope you get it sorted :D



#3 hellom8

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:28 AM

Thanks for the idea.  I will stick a multi meter on the battery when the car is running and see what voltage is coming back.


Edited by hellom8, 16 December 2014 - 01:49 PM.


#4 firstmini

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 04:57 PM

No prob, worth a try :D

#5 Jedi Master

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:41 PM

Sounds the same as my issue. Has been getting slower and slower on turnover for quick some time. Finally the battery died this morning after only x3 attempts. Alternator is still the original since 1978. Battery is new, but
I doubt getting much charge when running as I have the lights, wipers, etc all running. Battery has likely been getting slowly run flat by this process. I'm guessing the older alternative kicks out relatively lows amps compared to a modern type so not charging the battery very well, if at all. My '93 auto spins over very freely in comparison.

#6 Spider

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:22 PM

Could well be the alternator and that would probably be one of the first places I'd look.

 

I did have one a little while back where it was the starter motor. On the Bench it seemed OK, but the bushes (not brushes) were worn and so it was 'poleing out' where the armature starts to rub against the field poles.



#7 hellom8

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 07:58 AM

Thanks.

I will check the voltage coming back to the battery and also check to earthing to make sure that's ok.

Does anyone know what sort of voltage should come back from the alt?.

Cheers.

Iggy.



#8 Spider

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 08:00 AM

At least 13.5V but closer to 14V would be more pleasing.

 

Also check at the battery too.



#9 hellom8

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Posted 23 December 2014 - 01:50 PM

I'm getting 13.9V at the battery.

I did notice that the battery earth was quite loose, so I have nipped it up.


Edited by hellom8, 23 December 2014 - 01:59 PM.


#10 KernowCooper

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Posted 23 December 2014 - 07:51 PM

The Voltage on the regulator was listed originally at 13.7-14.3v at 2000rpm+ for reference and the lower figure being the minimum to charge a Lead Acid 12v Battery



#11 dklawson

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Posted 23 December 2014 - 08:32 PM

You mentioned checking the battery earth.  My thought was that if you can slowly charge the battery and it seems to run out of power after one or two attempts to start the engine, it may not be the battery itself but the earth cable(s) both in the booth and in the engine bay.  If the conductors or their attachment points are corroded or eaten away by acid the reduced conductivity can result in heating while cranking that further reduces the ability to pass current.  While checking all the inexpensive things, check the cables and their anchor points, cleaning and replacing as necessary.



#12 hellom8

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Posted 24 December 2014 - 07:28 AM

Thanks.  I will remove the earth straps and clean with IPA to see if that does the trick.



#13 dklawson

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Posted 24 December 2014 - 12:23 PM

The alcohol is not what I had in mind.  Use an abrasive like wet/dry paper or ScotchBrite to clean all the cable contact points (both on the cable terminals and the car body) to shiny bare metal.  Coat the cleaned surfaces with Vaseline or dielectric grease and reassemble.  While working with the cables, try to examine them closely for corrosion damage that has crept up under any cable insulation.  Cables can look intact and have hidden damage under their jackets.



#14 hellom8

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Posted 24 December 2014 - 12:46 PM

Ok, thanks for the advise.



#15 gazza01

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:30 AM

If everyone cleaned up thier earthing points many of these electrical issues we read of would be sorted.






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