Speeding Along Now
Posted 04 January 2015 - 04:56 PM
Trying to secure some heated indoor garage at my parents condo in the meantime. Just it's on the other side of the city so a bit reluctant as I wouldn't be able to pop out for an hour or two and work on him.
Thanks for that doc, I'll let you know how I make out next time I get at him.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 04 January 2015 - 10:50 PM
Speeding Along Now
Posted 04 January 2015 - 11:59 PM
Have you tried getting a mate to turn it over whilst you turn the dizzy? Worked with getting my 1275 started.
I did try bridging the poles on the starter solenoid and was able to try moving the dizzy at the same time but no love with that either. Will be checking the fuelling next.
Edited by crackfoo, 05 January 2015 - 12:04 AM.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 05 January 2015 - 02:58 PM
Just a random thought. How old is the fuel? It can loose octane value over time. You said it starts on easy start.
Try some fresh fuel in the carb to test.
Speeding Along Now
Posted 05 January 2015 - 03:45 PM
The fuel is fresh and I've only ever put in the high octane stuff aka "super". I've gone through a couple tanks since getting it on the road in November so should be ok.
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 05 January 2015 - 05:20 PM
I've tried with and without choke and got no love either way. My choke is set pretty high already so should be sufficient.
Over the course of the past couple days of trying to start it which has been any tries. Only a couple times it sputtered at the end of a start attempt, just as I disengaged the starter.
Start pilot? Isn't that for diesel?
They sell startpilot for petrol engines too ;)
Its not always adviced as it is 'dry' and therevfor causes less oiling of the pistons at startup ( so am I told, dont know if its true).
But I've used it a few times now, especially when I'm in need to get somwhere quick.. :)
Speeding Along Now
Posted 06 January 2015 - 02:47 PM
It's -14C today so I guess I won't be doing anything with him today aside from charging the battery. I was wondering where the keys went and turns out I had left them in the ignition in the run position. dang it!
Sparkie
Posted 06 January 2015 - 05:50 PM
Coil didn't freeze up in the cold then ?
Speeding Along Now
Posted 06 January 2015 - 06:14 PM
The resistor plugs you have will be OK. However, you don't want to use them with resistor plug wires (carbon fiber core plug wires). Resistor plugs are much more common now but you may still find the "non-resistor" NGK's at some of the parts stores. If not, ask for Champion N9Y (again... without the "R") I forget what the Bosch and Denso equivalents are. Many people don't like Champions but they were the plug to have back in the day.
As I was out charging the battery, I noticed the plugs were actually BPR5ES an not BPR6ES... No lucking finding non R's around here. What effect would 5's have over 6's? Hopefully later this week I can do that fuel test.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 January 2015 - 07:24 PM
The 5 vs 6 is the heat range of the plug. (See the link below). It will make very little difference regarding getting the engine started, it's more a function of how well the engine runs at temperature/load and whether there is a tendency for knocking and pinging. The "R" in the part number is going to be of more concern, particularly if you have resistor spark plug wires and/or resistor end caps on the plug wires. Each additional bit of resistance takes a bit away from the energy of the spark at the plugs.
Since you are in Canada I cannot venture to guess what a local supplier may have as alternate plugs. I mentioned the Champion N9Y as the old traditional plugs. A quick Google search took me to the link below which lists many of the common equivalent plugs to the N9Y (and the list does include the NGK BP6ES).
Champion N9Y Crossreference Page
Armed with this information you should be able to find a shop with one of these brands of plugs.
Speeding Along Now
Posted 06 January 2015 - 07:44 PM
The 5 vs 6 is the heat range of the plug. (See the link below). It will make very little difference regarding getting the engine started, it's more a function of how well the engine runs at temperature/load and whether there is a tendency for knocking and pinging. The "R" in the part number is going to be of more concern, particularly if you have resistor spark plug wires and/or resistor end caps on the plug wires. Each additional bit of resistance takes a bit away from the energy of the spark at the plugs.
Since you are in Canada I cannot venture to guess what a local supplier may have as alternate plugs. I mentioned the Champion N9Y as the old traditional plugs. A quick Google search took me to the link below which lists many of the common equivalent plugs to the N9Y (and the list does include the NGK BP6ES).
Champion N9Y Crossreference Page
Armed with this information you should be able to find a shop with one of these brands of plugs.
Thanks for the info and links. Should be able to seek something out with that cross reference. The original spec/invoice from Minispeed, where the engine was from, showed that it should have had an electronic ignition already but over the past 14 years, someones stripped it and put in the 45D/points which is why I suspect the R's are in there now.
Cheers!
Edited by crackfoo, 06 January 2015 - 07:45 PM.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 January 2015 - 09:23 PM
Regardless of the distributor and points or electronic ignition, a previous owner will have fitted whatever plugs and wires they wanted at the time. I don't know what size wires a 45D distributor cap is designed for but I believe they are limited to 7mm. I have a Hitachi distributor on my car and am currently running a homemade set of 8mm wires created from a Chevy V8 kit from Accell. The wires are big in diameter but their construction is really nice. There is a conductive core spirally wrapped with wire and finally jacketed in silicone insulation. They provide EMI/RFI protection (like traditional carbon core resistor wires) without a lot of power loss. I run those wires with a set of BP6ES plugs.
Regardless, don't let this get ahead of you. Worry about the final plugs and wires AFTER you have gotten the engine started. By all means try a new set of non-resistor plugs and new wires, cap, and rotor if there are any signs of craze cracking or carbon tracking on the parts. Do not go straight for any high-dollar performance parts at this time. Save those for later. I would however suggest starting with a fresh set of points and a new condenser if you have not already installed them. Start with the cheap stuff.
Speeding Along Now
Posted 09 January 2015 - 07:39 PM
Coil didn't freeze up in the cold then ?
Well, I'm not sure how to tell that... the coil was getting warm when trying to start it last... I'm sure it froze it's coil off the past few days... but is there a way to tell that it's frozen?
Speeding Along Now
Posted 09 January 2015 - 07:41 PM
For tomorrow's test, disconnect and plug the fuel line coming from the pump and going to the carbs. Try to start the engine. If it fires, runs for a few minutes. then dies, you have an over fueling issue to deal with. If there is no fire at all, tip a thimble of fuel down the carb throats. Again try to start the engine. If it fires to life and quickly dies, you have a low fuel delivery problem to deal with. If neither condition causes the engine to run briefly, look for ignition and timing issues.
In case I get a change to do this, this weekend. Do i have to disconnect to fuel line or can I pinch it closed? Perhaps it has to come off to allow the carb to pull in whats left sitting there?
Edited by crackfoo, 09 January 2015 - 07:43 PM.
Sparkie
Posted 09 January 2015 - 07:43 PM
Sorry crackfoo you have never left the ignition on for any length of time and tried to touch it then? they get so hot you cant touch the case, thats why I said the coil never froze up
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