58 replies to this topic

[crackfoo]

Sorry crackfoo you have never left the ignition on for any length of time and tried to touch it then? they get so hot you cant touch the case, thats why I said the coil never froze up

 

Oh. no, not intentionally. I didn't know they can get that hot. So far I've only felt mine to be quite warm, but not hot.

[crackfoo]

Regardless, don't let this get ahead of you.  Worry about the final plugs and wires AFTER you have gotten the engine started.  By all means try a new set of non-resistor plugs and new wires, cap, and rotor if there are any signs of craze cracking or carbon tracking on the parts.  Do not go straight for any high-dollar performance parts at this time.  Save those for later.  I would however suggest starting with a fresh set of points and a new condenser if you have not already installed them.  Start with the cheap stuff.

 

Since I already had parts on order from Minispares, and they showed up Friday, I put on the new wires, HV22 red silicone ones, plugs BP6ES, non-ballast coil. Still have a flat battery so hooked him up to my van and he jumped to life after a 3 turnovers. Took him for a spin and he worked like a charm. No dragging his heels, or sputtering. Didn't have much gas so couldn't go for a real good drive (wanting to charge up my battery), nor could I stop and fill up as I doubt it would start him back up again. I was right, after a short spin I returned home, turned him off and tried to start again on his battery. All I got was one click on the solenoid and no attempt to turnover. I think due to the battery still. I may have to take it back for another check as I still think it's not good.

 

Regardless, I pulled the plugs to see how they got on since they were new and should have a good idea of the mixture state and they were carbon fouled. All 4 equally. So I'm assuming my carbs are running rich unless someone thinks otherwise?

[KernowCooper]

You need a longer run to read the plugs, starting on choke and  a short run wont tell you much about the mixture. I'd say your battery is beyond saving, every time you let one go completely flat it wont ever give 100% again

[crackfoo]

You need a longer run to read the plugs, starting on choke and  a short run wont tell you much about the mixture. I'd say your battery is beyond saving, every time you let one go completely flat it wont ever give 100% again

 

I think you're right about the battery. I'll take it in for another test Tuesday and go from there. How long of a run would a need to get a decent plug reading?

[KernowCooper]

Run the engine up to operating temperature and then take it for a 20miler

[crackfoo]

Should I make sure I hit a certain speed most of the run?

[crackfoo]

Been a while since I posted, but also been a while since I've been able to tinkering with Rupert. Jan & Feb were terribly cold months. It did get up to -3 or -4 yesterday so thought I'd try to start him up. Looks like he's not pulling fuel through the line now. The underneath is totally ice still, within 2-3 inches from the bottom of him so I'm thinking the fuel line must be frozen on the underside. I have a mechanical fuel pump, so perhaps it might be frozen as well? I'm hoping if it warms up even more, it'll just work.

 

Is it any use adding gasline antifreeze now? Will it work its way through? Is there a way I can see if the line is block... like blowing/sucking through the line from the engine bay? He started fine for a 1-2 seconds when I loaded mouth of the carbs with gas. Hoped the starting would pull some gas through but no luck.

 

Looks like temps are beginning to start hovering 0 to -5C now, thankfully!

Edited by crackfoo, 01 March 2015 - 01:39 PM.

[crackfoo]

I was able to siphon some gas up so I guess it means the fuel pump maybe frozen or gone?

[dklawson]

Regardless of Fahrenheit of Celsius, -4 should not be cold enough to freeze the gas.  If the mechanical pump is not able to move the fuel, the problem is most likely a blockage in the fuel line or problems with the pump itself.  There are other possible problems... but they would not present themselves when trying to start... only when the engine has run for a while.

 

Confirm pump operation by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb(s) and aiming the disconnected hose in a catch can.  Turn the engine over on the starter and look for fuel to be delivered in pulses.  If you get fuel delivery with the hose disconnected, look for problems with the carb float valve which is either blocked or stuck shut.  If no fuel is delivered to the catch can, look for any fuel filters previous owners may have installed inline between the fuel tank and fuel pump.  Replace any you find.  If the pump still refuses to move fuel, it will be time to remove the pump and examine it.  

 

Be prepared to replace the pump but do the checks and replace any filters first.  Always try cheap fixes first.

[crackfoo]

Ok, in the past month it has been down to nearly -25 with windchill 35+. There is an inline filter near the carbs and I could see that no fuel was getting there (was connected though). I picked up a new one so will do the turn over and squirt test into a can. Hopefully gas will be delivered and the problem is in the float. I find it hard to believe that a mechanical pump would not work after sitting for a month after a goof run without any problem.

 

If I was able to suck gas out, would that rule out a blockage? Also, I've been reading about failed pump and the dreaded diaphragm rupture, if it was broke, would I not be able to suck gas out? Wouldn't it just be leaking into the block? 

 

Thanks again, Doug!

Edited by crackfoo, 03 March 2015 - 12:29 PM.

[dklawson]

If you have a suction pump (hand tool like Mity-Vac or similar) and can suck fuel through the pump then that suggests the fuel lines are open but does not say the pump is either good or bad.  Succinctly, the mechanical fuel pump has two one-way valves that allow fuel through the pump but prevent fuel from moving back to the tank.  For the pump to work, both check valves have to be intact and not blocked AND the pump diaphragm has to be intact.  Drawing fuel through the pump with a vacuum may be possible even if the pump is defective.

 

The oil in the sump will quickly start smelling like gasoline if the pump diaphragm ruptures. 

 

Lastly, I Googled the freezing point of gasoline.  There is no single answer for when it freezes as it appears to depend on what is blended in.  However, all the references I have found say gasoline should not freeze at the temperatures you have seen.

[crackfoo]

Ok thanks for the info on the pump. I'll give it a go when it warms back up again. Another -15C day when I'm home of course. I checked the oil last week and didn't notice a fuel smell, but I'll check it over again as I wasn't really paying attention to the smell when I did.

Edited by crackfoo, 03 March 2015 - 03:04 PM.

[crackfoo]

Well it happened to get up to 6C today! So when I got home from work I did the squirt test and after 10-20 seconds of cranking, gas started spurting out so all is well there. Hooked up a new in line fuel filter and connected back up to the carbs. After a a few turn overs he came to life. Noticed though that the fuel filter connecter spout was leaking a bit. Didn't have to time to address that but at least I know the plumbing is working and that he actually started up really quickly after getting gas.

 

Thanks guys

[dklawson]

Great!  I am glad you have made good progress.

 

After weeks of unseasonal cold weather, we had a day of unseasonably warm weather today.  The weatherman is talking about sleet and freezing rain again tomorrow.  I hope your warmish weather continues for a while.