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yet more brake problems.


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#16 Jammy

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 03:34 PM

Yes. The whole system should really be bled. You can do it yourself with an EasyBleed kit.

#17 Big_Adam

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 03:47 PM

dose mean i have to be able to afford an easybleed thingy. its going to have to wait then,

#18 TOMMO0302

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 03:49 PM

you can buy brake bleeding kits for £2 from motor factors with one way valves so you don't need an assistant to tighten the nipple each time you pump the pedal.

#19 Sprocket

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 04:38 PM

Easi Blead, one of the best tools ever!

DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY ON ANYTHING ELSE

Same goes for what i said last year and you wouldn't be in this situation. But hey hope you get it sorted soon.

#20 jack_marshall

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 05:33 PM

Or borrow somebodys right foot for 10 minutes and use the words "Down.....Up.... Down.... Up"

Dont even think about editing that, Jammy.

Edited by jack_marshall, 11 July 2006 - 05:34 PM.


#21 ninjanine

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 05:40 PM

Easibleeds are a good way to go, though I still finish by the old way with a helper for the last couple of brake depressions.
I recently changed the brakes on a old 1976 Landrover, that certainly had different brake pipe connector threads, I had to change the lot to fit the new cylinders.
You could also be getting air back in through the bleed valve threads if they are 100% secure fit.
Finally check your flexible hoses if at all suspect fit braided ones. I had a similar problem with a clutch - fitted new plates, thrust bearing, master cylinder, operating arm only to find fluid was passing from the inside of the flexible pipe to a cavity between the outer braid and the inner pipe under pressure. Get someone to apply the brake while you hold the flexible hose tight to feel if it expand or moves unduly.
Good luck. If all else fails spend money!

#22 Big_Adam

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:08 PM

right, i've had it properly blead by Rory whos a mechanic (also my mum's boyfirend meaning free, woohoo!) blead it all thro. all nice clean air free fluid coming thro and STILL i had to pump it. so the final suspect is air in the master cylinder (please god let it be that) so i built up pressure and left the pedal down for the night.

if its not that then the only thing it could be is the master bugger meaning 30 squid + of cash i do not own going bye bye.

oh well. also. pressuure sencor thingy on the master cylinder. is there some trick to getting that out?

#23 minislapper

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:13 PM

so i built up pressure and left the pedal down for the night.


Did you leave the master cylinder cap slack?

#24 Big_Adam

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:27 PM

errmmm.......no.....should i have?

wait. you having said that means i should have,

#25 miniboo

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:35 PM

if you have bled it properly then there should be no air even in the master cylinder.

either you have dodgy mech's or you have a fault somewhere

#26 Big_Adam

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:37 PM

well in the hynes book thingy. it says to remove the pressor sencor when bleeding.

could it be that???

whats the "proper" way to bleed it??

#27 minipip

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 09:38 PM

im having exactly the same problem, i hopeing it will go away when i fit my disc's if it dont then im going on minispares and buying the refurb kit, or and a set of braided hoses :- does anyone know if the thread size on the subby end of the hose, did that one change at any point or is it only the caliper side that changed wen they put disc,s on?!

#28 Nial

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Posted 12 July 2006 - 11:21 AM

right, i've had it properly blead by Rory whos a mechanic (also my mum's boyfirend meaning free, woohoo!) blead it all thro. all nice clean air free fluid coming thro and STILL i had to pump it. so the final suspect is air in the master cylinder (please god let it be that) so i built up pressure and left the pedal down for the night.



I used to have this problem on my drum braked mini, I must have put gallons of brake fluid
through the system trying to get a decent pedal.

The trick is to adjust all your brakes up so that they rotate stiffly by hand, ie much tighter than
is described in the haynes manual. I used to have a couple of high spots on the rear brakes and
had to adjust these so I could _just_ rotate the wheel past them. You'll have to do this fairly
regularly if you want to keep a good pedal.

If this works it might be a good idea replacing the drums.


Nial.

#29 minislapper

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Posted 12 July 2006 - 11:36 AM

errmmm.......no.....should i have?

wait. you having said that means i should have,


If you leave the cap tightly on, where is the air going to get out?!

#30 Big_Adam

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Posted 12 July 2006 - 12:37 PM

well lossend the cap when i got home last night. stil have no brakes.

still in the EXSACT same condition. no brakes unless you pump it 3 times.

Anymore suggestions on a fix?




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